Padrino's 220 Upgrade

Hi Rob,

Want to steal several of your build ideas on a future build. Do you have experience with bulkheads on bottom of tank? I had acrylic tank make it seven years no leaks on close loop bh's,did have leak on bottom overflow BH. The lesson I learned on wood frame I built was I didn't cut plywood holes for easy wrench access from under tank :( I also read a build thread for large tank, where the guy did away with rubber seals and siliconed BH's, both flange and nut. Installed upside down in case he had to remove from bottom for plumbing repairs and not drain tank, interesting concept.
 
Reefocd said:
Hi Rob,

Want to steal several of your build ideas on a future build. Do you have experience with bulkheads on bottom of tank? I had acrylic tank make it seven years no leaks on close loop bh's,did have leak on bottom overflow BH. The lesson I learned on wood frame I built was I didn't cut plywood holes for easy wrench access from under tank :( I also read a build thread for large tank, where the guy did away with rubber seals and siliconed BH's, both flange and nut. Installed upside down in case he had to remove from bottom for plumbing repairs and not drain tank, interesting concept.
Click to expand...

no problem, enjoy!

yes i drilled large holes in the plywood to give me access to my bulkheads. Cheers
 
Here is some progress in the fishroom. I have two 15A circuits that I need to tie into the panel and a drain to rough in for the sink before I can finish insulating, vapour barrier, and drywall. The entire room including the laundry room will be all done in 1/2" mold tough greenboard. Big issue is the drywall doesn't fit downstairs so I have to get creative on how to get it down there. I have some help coming sunday which should help the progress for drywall at least.







 
I've been following you build with great interest and admiration. It is one of the most well considered and designed that I have seen.
One question, did you ever consider a simple voltage converter for your Eco blue and Abyzz pumps? If so, why did you decide against it?
Art
 
acesq said:
I've been following you build with great interest and admiration. It is one of the most well considered and designed that I have seen.
One question, did you ever consider a simple voltage converter for your Eco blue and Abyzz pumps? If so, why did you decide against it?
Art
Click to expand...

like a transformer? yes this was a very simple method but it has its downfalls like it constantly draws power and creates heat and it wouldn't look as professional. I was originally going to go with this method as an auto transformer would allow for a GCFI circuit (cause the transformer is not isolated in this case). See below for a hookup matrix I made at the time. Lets just say a friend gave me the 240V GCFI breaker :) so I started with option 4. However now, I have upgraded to option 6 as we speak now. The abyzz pumps are 240V and the blue eco is 120 so its on regular power.



Thank you for thinking this build was well thought out :)
Cheers
 
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Padrino said:
like a transformer? yes this was a very simple method but it has its downfalls like it constantly draws power and creates heat and it wouldn't look as professional. I was originally going to go with this method as an auto transformer would allow for a GCFI circuit (cause the transformer is not isolated in this case). See below for a hookup matrix I made at the time. Lets just say a friend gave me the 240V GCFI breaker :) so I started with option 4. However now, I have upgraded to option 6 as we speak now. The abyzz pumps are 240V and the blue eco is 120 so its on regular power.



Thank you for thinking this build was well thought out :)
Cheers
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comprehensive reply. (This is what I mean about well though out!!) Love the decision matrix.
Another few questions: Is there anything preventing using a 120GCFI in options 1 and 2 to achieve the missing safety factor?
Can you describe your UPS set up? Where did you locate it and how much power will it supply?
Also, where did you find a 120 blue eco pump? I haven't been able to locate one. Finally, I see that that pump is drawing only a few watts in you set up. Is that the model that draws up to 240 watts? What flow rate would you say you are getting compared to maximum? Would you use it for a closed loop pump?

You're build has given me LOTS of good ideas I hope to incorporate into my similar sized build. I'm now grappling with whether to go closed loop and, if so whether to have the kind of flow you have designed. I need to put together a decision matrix!! I already know one set of inputs: Abyzz pumps: cost: HIGH desirability: HIGH

Thanks for your entire thread.
Art
 
acesq said:
Thanks for the comprehensive reply. (This is what I mean about well though out!!) Love the decision matrix.
Another few questions: Is there anything preventing using a 120GCFI in options 1 and 2 to achieve the missing safety factor?
Can you describe your UPS set up? Where did you locate it and how much power will it supply?
Also, where did you find a 120 blue eco pump? I haven't been able to locate one. Finally, I see that that pump is drawing only a few watts in you set up. Is that the model that draws up to 240 watts? What flow rate would you say you are getting compared to maximum? Would you use it for a closed loop pump?

You're build has given me LOTS of good ideas I hope to incorporate into my similar sized build. I'm now grappling with whether to go closed loop and, if so whether to have the kind of flow you have designed. I need to put together a decision matrix!! I already know one set of inputs: Abyzz pumps: cost: HIGH desirability: HIGH

Thanks for your entire thread.
Art
Click to expand...


Yes if you use an "auto transformer", you can plug that into a 120V GCFI and it will trip when there is a fault. I tested this theory at work with a colleague when trying to decide which path to take.

As previously mentioned, I acquired a 240V GCFI breaker for my panel. I ran the 240V circuit to a junction box downstairs below the tank. From there I ran liquid tight electrical conduit to the boxes and finally found a different type of dryer plug that would accept the german plugs. I wanted to refrain from rewiring the Abyzz power cords as much as possible for two reasons. They look nice :) and they have an internal 5A fuse in them. Then a very close friend of mine started a new job at a computer repair company in town. They ordered a nice UPS for a client from APC and they sent them the wrong one. Instead of sending it back to the supplier my buddy got it for me at their cost which was still insane. This UPS is a 1500VA 240VAC UPS that can be rack mounted or free standing. Unbelievably for the first time, one thing went so perfect that I didn't have to go back and change everything. The plugs that go into the ABYZZ drivers were the same as the back of the UPS. I just swapped the cords and it was perfect. Ill get you a picture of that later today.

Currently my 120V blue eco is circulating my sump at which is probably running 1500g/hr my guess. Its current consumption at this rpm (1800) is only 35W. You can get this pump from only very few people which I will not list here. Send me a PM and I will be happy to give you his direct phone number.

Nowadays with sine wave AC pumps and DC pumps, closed loop is the way to go. Powerheads are intrusive and clog with algae and other garbage which limits the flow over time. I am excited to go closed loop. Just plan it out and decide early. I decided I wanted another abyzz under the tank for a second closed loop. By this point the tank was constructed and heat treated and there was no going back. This is why you have seen all these custom machined drums and other items just to be able to achieve the second pump without starvation.

Hope that helps
Rob
 
Thanks for everything Rob. Now I'll sit back and wait (impatiently, mind you) for the next step in your build.... :thumbsup:
 
Thank you Peter!

It's been a slow moving train but progress continues to move ahead. I have dry walled approximately 70% of the fish room. Before I could even make it this far I had a lot of prep work to complete like tying in 2 separate electrical circuits just for fish room plugs, roughing in a drain and vent, building a wall within the mechanical room, insulating and vapour barrier the walls.

I still need to validate that my humidifier works properly and decide on the size of the recessed box within the center wall for controllers, ect. Once this is complete, I can finish the drywall and get to mud and tape.
More soon.
Cheers
Rob
 
Rob,

I am planning a new shallow reef tank (3 side starphire, 66" x 24" x 22"h of 12mm glass non-tempered bottom top and bottom eurobraced, may or may not add front to back braces. I had bottom drilled for close loop in last acrylic tank and at the stage of deciding to drill glass tank for close loop. I see you are fearless with this issue. What is your experience over your time with glass tanks past and present , BH placement and what drilling does to strength of glass panel. I want to be able to sleep at night and not worry....

Thanks!
 
Reefocd said:
Rob,

I am planning a new shallow reef tank (3 side starphire, 66" x 24" x 22"h of 12mm glass non-tempered bottom top and bottom eurobraced, may or may not add front to back braces. I had bottom drilled for close loop in last acrylic tank and at the stage of deciding to drill glass tank for close loop. I see you are fearless with this issue. What is your experience over your time with glass tanks past and present , BH placement and what drilling does to strength of glass panel. I want to be able to sleep at night and not worry....

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have had the philosophy that if the glass is drilled with the right bit and the right size and you are using good quality bulkheads there will be no issue. Drilling must be done in non tempered panels which can be tempered afterwards if you wish. My tank is 60"Lx30"Wx26"H using 3/4 strap hire and regular 5/8 back and bottom which were tempered after drilling because of the number of holes. This was overkill in my opinion and also has top and bottom euro bracing and side bracing
 
Dang, how did I miss this build...

1 question 1 thought...

Question: axial exhaust fan you purchased....how quiet is it and what are your thoughts now that you have hooked it up...also can you give me the model number as I cant seem to find it...

Thought...I am doing a build thread and am about to post my experiences but I installed a closed loop and have Mp 60 power head wave maker clones....I did not want to see the CL at all. I built the rock around the CL and was able to hide most of it...I decided that once I had the CL pointing where I wanted...(mostly hitting the front glass and corners) I would use the PHs with their random flow adjustments to create the flow I wanted. I also wanted the ability to adjust the CL over time but thought it was going to be too tough long term... I can maniuplate flow with the PHs.... .On one tank it took me about 10 minutes to get what I wanted...on the other I had to mess with it for about 3 days....anyway great build and good luck.
 
FuzzyZipperbaum said:
Dang, how did I miss this build...

1 question 1 thought...

Question: axial exhaust fan you purchased....how quiet is it and what are your thoughts now that you have hooked it up...also can you give me the model number as I cant seem to find it...

Thought...I am doing a build thread and am about to post my experiences but I installed a closed loop and have Mp 60 power head wave maker clones....I did not want to see the CL at all. I built the rock around the CL and was able to hide most of it...I decided that once I had the CL pointing where I wanted...(mostly hitting the front glass and corners) I would use the PHs with their random flow adjustments to create the flow I wanted. I also wanted the ability to adjust the CL over time but thought it was going to be too tough long term... I can maniuplate flow with the PHs.... .On one tank it took me about 10 minutes to get what I wanted...on the other I had to mess with it for about 3 days....anyway great build and good luck.
Click to expand...

I will get you the manufacture and model. I have tested it a few times and am very happy with the flow after all the static pressure losses. With zero static pressure it has over 300cfm which is great. It has very little metal components which is what I want being in a fish room and its practically silent.

For me my closed loop pimps are random and fully adjustable so I gain all the benefits of having a powerhead without having the cons of using ph.
Cheers
Rob
 
Thank you. I have been making progress! I was able to drywall the entire fish room except for 2 small sections where I need to decide how big to make a inset that will be in the wall and hold the controllers. Other than that, I'm waiting to have someone mud and tape the room. Should move fast after that (to some degree)
 
So I am going through a few decision processes at the moment. First starts with the basement fishroom. I am planning to build a small recessed box to hold my controllers, ect. I was planning to install a 1500VA APC UPS as a backup and surge protector for particularly the return pump which is a Blue Eco 240. My plan was to install a UPS (into a deeper section) the blue eco controller and the vertex Cerebra controller in this recessed box. My issue really boils down to space and the fact that I have been waiting for the cerebra for 5 years and still they cannot nail down the dimensions of the box. I have asked all my sources at Vertex and their distributors. Hopefully someone can confirm the rough dimensions of the control panel. This would help me move along and finish putting up the last couple sheets of drywall i have in that area. I think I will make this box one depth and just mount the blue eco controller (actually 2 now, i've decided that I want one as the return pump to pump upstairs and the second will be plumbed right beside it and actually pipe into the same line (for future service & support but mainly just to run my frag tank and media reactors)

I was originally going to have the return from the main tank upstairs feed the frag tank which would then feed the sump but not sure it will be enough flow given the size, 40"L x 30"W x12"H. I really need to sit down and figure out what piece of equipment is going where exactly and how it is being plumbed together. That is the key part.

Anyways as I mentioned im planning to pick up another Blue Eco and will install the controllers in the recessed wall side by side. The UPS will probably be installed inside the wall behind the recessed box where I have a large access panel. This makes it legal i believe.I need to confirm this but im almost positive that as long as I have the large access panel I can put whatever I want in there.

Next on the list, I have been thinking very much about light lifter assemblies, ect as it gets kind of ugly and I loose a lot of head space trying to conceal it. I am still toying with the designs in my head but it might be similar to what was used by andrew- Reef in the Sky. The electric winch utilizing a tubular motor and custom cable drums ect. More importantly, I am trying to picture how my tank will look with the main Vertex 260 hanging above it and the 2 illumilux strips hanging from the illumina. I don't know.HELP ME OUT HERE. I am polling you guys. Should I enclose the tank and build nice solid bamboo doors over top for access or keep it open top.

There are advantages and disadvantages. One thing is, I can put the fan on a permanent timer and help with potential humidity in the future. I could drill new holes in the Eurobrace at the front of the tank and have the return run across the top and provide much better surface skimming. That and it would hide the piping as it goes across the top of the tank. What do you think? Comon guys I need decisions!
Thanks to all in advance,
Cheers
 
I am curious about your recessed electrics cabinet. Aren't there going to be heat concerns, especially with a UPS in there? Also, how will you line it to keep it flame-retarding?

For the cabinet top I would make it appear enclosed but have it easily removable for maintenance. As you plan for all your wonder lamps of today, just remember that they will all be outmoded in a year or two and you'll probably want to upgrade eventually, so I don't think it is a good idea to make any of it too permanent. I think you are better off making things as flexible as possible so that you are in that much better position to make changes in the future.

Dave.M
 
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