painting stand and hood black

Aqua Keepers

New member
I'm getting ready to paint my hood and stand. I want to do it in black, but I want it so glossy and smooth that it looks like black glass. I mean I wanna see myself in it & not see any wood grain. My plan is to use 3 coats of the gloss black, oil based, Rust-Oleum enamel. (Wet Sanding in between coats). I was told to use a couple coats of clear lacquer to give a better shine.

Now the questions: Should I use a brush, roller, or one of those foam thingies? What grit sandpaper should I use? Should I sand between coats of lacquer? Can someone recommend a lacquer?

I just found a can of Helmsman minwax indoor/outdoor spar urethane (clear satin) in my garage. Can this be used in place of lacquer?
 
You know that Spar is pretty yellow?

If I were making a really modern smooth finish I would be using a true 2 part mix epoxy that could be sanded inbetween and would look like it was poured into the shape it was it was so smooth.

If you want to play like a car refinisher then you need to patch and smooth everything. Seal it with a primer and then put base coats and then get some high end clear laquer and do it right. And that requires spraying.

Personally I think that for a fish tank the high gloss 2 part marine epoxy would get you close enough without all the playing around.
Epoxy builds pretty quick, it's patchable and it will get a pretty decent final coat.
Also if you go to Harbor Frieght they have these neat little spray cans that you fill with your paint (if it's sprayable it will say can be thinned) and fill it with an air compressor to pressurize it. Make sure compressor is not oil type or that it's damp unless you have filters otherwise in some cases you'll find oil or water caused blemishes in the coats. The fillable cans are $7 and if you are good with a spray can you get good results. Rollers and Brushes for a fine detail are tough even with paints that laydown.
Sand Paper. Filler, 60, filler, 100, seal/primer, 120, (some go 240 but you have to leave enough for paint to bite into. Then you can get down to the finer wet sand stuff when you get towards the last couple coats.

If you google how to finish wood and how to repaint a hot rod or boat you'll get enough from those searches to lock in your finish type and how to get there.
 
Unless you have experience in painting, you will be hard pressed to get the "mirror" finish you are looking for. I'm not saying it can't be done by an amateur, but it's not as easy as some people think.
I have been in the auto body industry for nearly 20 years and my recommendation is to go with a different finish that will be easier to achieve, or look for a body shop that will prime and paint it for you. Another thing, lacquer hasn't been used on cars for quite some time now.

PS stay away from Harbor Freight, there tools are absolute garbage. JMO

I hope this helps.

Spleify
 
i agree with ^. its a pain to get a super flat surface so you have a mirror shine on a stand with all the trimm and all. thats why i went with a flat black with mine and i used slick sand to fill in most of the bad spots but i didnt want to do all the extra sanding on all the trim so flat bbq black sprayed with a hvlp still turned out really nice but still hid the minor bo boos.
 
Piano type finishing is not all that hard and can be done without any fancy equipment, the japanese mastered it long before the hvlp gun was ever invented. In short paste filling all grain and sanding to 400 is the hard part. Tinted deft will give the bottom coat. Tapering the tint all the way to the top coat will yield a deep high gloss finish. Wet and bag sanding each coat will give you piano smoothness. Takes alot of time but looks good.

Don
 
Sounds like a good plan....definitely go with Donw's advice but PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep us posted I am very anxious to see how it turns out..........

A very good second alternative is what Custom color was talking about, personally that is how I would go If I was looking for a black finish and didn't have any experience or equipment.

But first go for what Donw talked about, but again, please keep us posted.

Thanks

Spleify
 
LOL! I'm definitely an amateur. Help me understand Donw's advice.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13309641#post13309641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
paste filling all grain and sanding to 400 is the hard part.
Don
I'm gonna start with a smooth type ply like birch or something. So this part should be minimal accept where I have to fill the nail holes. Any recommendations on the type of wood to start off with?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13309641#post13309641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
Tinted deft will give the bottom coat.
Don

What the h3ll is tinted deft. Are you saying to use this like a primer or prime first and use this as first coat?
 
You will have to use grain filler on any wood. Woodcraft, rockler or any decent woodworking supplier will have it. Deft is a brushable laquer you can use with ease. Rockler should have the black tint. Start off completely black and slowly use less tint until you reach the top clear coat.

Don
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13312153#post13312153 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
Also, what is bag sand?

Bag sanding is and old woodworkers trick. Using regular old grocery brown bags. You sand/burnish the finish wet and/or dry. This hardens the finish with the heat and sands to about 2000 grit. FWIW it works on acrylic also.

Don
 
I Goggled *Piano finishing* and found some good info. I thought that I'd pass this one link on
http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/pianofinish.shtml

According to info found via Google, I should be fine with the high gloss, oil based, Rustoleum enamel and clear lacquer (Deft with no tint?). So I started on the lid of my hood. This way if I screw it up, I can replace it easily. I Spackled it today, and will sand it after work tomorrow.
 
Got the 1st coat of paint on today. This paint is so glossy that I'm not sure it needs a clear coat over it. I'll most likely give it one anyway for added protection. There's no brush marks in it either. Let me give it a day or two for next coat. Stay tuned
 
customcolor, although the paint had no brush marks, it is kind of wavy. It's because,I put it on thick. I plan on a couple more coats and sanding between coats, but do you think I need to fix this now or will my clear coat do it?
 
you should use a long block and knock the waves down cuz the clear will just magnifiy them. its like getting a dirt spec in the paint on a car then clearing over it, it gets much worse and bigger. if you get waves in the clear they will be less than what it would have ben if you didnt knock down the ones in the black. if im right, the clear you are going to use could be wetsanded and buffed. just make shure you put enough layers on of it and watch the corners if you wet sand or buff cuz the corners will always have less material on them.
just take your time and dont rush it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13338435#post13338435 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pito
What's a long block

You can use a chunk of flat wood wrapped in sandpaper. Thats one of the draw backs to not tinting. With paint you get close to an automotive looking finish and with tinting you get a real piano or guitar type finish.

Don
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13339585#post13339585 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Donw
You can use a chunk of flat wood wrapped in sandpaper. Thats one of the draw backs to not tinting. With paint you get close to an automotive looking finish and with tinting you get a real piano or guitar type finish.

Don

Close is good enough for me. This tank will be in my bedroom anyways.
 
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