Is anyone using the par38 led lamps? They screw into a regular socket. Not that much more expensive than metal halide bulbs but no heat and alot less electricity. Just wondering if anyone using them on decent size tanks or just small tanks. If so, what kind of corals they are growing under them.
Par 38 LED lamps - Do they work?
- Thread starter tent boy
- Start date
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I had the opportunity to run the nanotuners (I think?) 20kk units (three RB LEDs, two whites) on my temporary tank for a few months with a few different species of common corals. Everything did fine, or at least any problems I had could be obviously attributed to other factors. Corals all grew well.
The models I had were equipped with really tight optics so the spread was not that big. That would be the only obvious thing for a larger tank. It was pretty easy to bleach a new coral by putting it directly under the hot spot - and this was with the units a good 18" off the surface of the tank. I would definitely not assume equivalent coverage/intensity to a typical MH lamp. Probably similar intensity right underneath as a 400w MH but far, far less coverage. Models with wide optics are probably more like a 250w MH but still significantly less coverage. I'd plan on three or four of them, with wide optics, to replace a typical strong 250w MH in terms of coverage AND intensity. But you only have to buy them once, no need to replace a lamp every year...
The models I had were equipped with really tight optics so the spread was not that big. That would be the only obvious thing for a larger tank. It was pretty easy to bleach a new coral by putting it directly under the hot spot - and this was with the units a good 18" off the surface of the tank. I would definitely not assume equivalent coverage/intensity to a typical MH lamp. Probably similar intensity right underneath as a 400w MH but far, far less coverage. Models with wide optics are probably more like a 250w MH but still significantly less coverage. I'd plan on three or four of them, with wide optics, to replace a typical strong 250w MH in terms of coverage AND intensity. But you only have to buy them once, no need to replace a lamp every year...
cardiffgiant
Active member
I use two of them over my frag tank. My zoas thrive under them. Some palys experienced bleaching , as do some SPS.
I like them for a frag tank because of the low electric and minimal cost for a fixture. FWIW, I wouldn't use them over a display tank. My preference for a larger display would be to stick with T5 or to look into a different type of LED fixture.
I like them for a frag tank because of the low electric and minimal cost for a fixture. FWIW, I wouldn't use them over a display tank. My preference for a larger display would be to stick with T5 or to look into a different type of LED fixture.
Eastamherstbias
New member
I would not use them for sps. Zoanthids and plays/birdsnest do well with them.
Eastamherstbias
New member
I have four over my frag tanks along with a 120w evolution. I learned very early that SPS and the par38's dont go well.
Here are the par numbers:
Here are the par numbers:
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
I'm surprised to hear you didn't like them with SPS. I had really good results with birdsnest, monti caps, and a few other common varieties. You could practically watch the montis growing.
I agree though that they don't make much sense on a large tank, unless you WANT uneven lighting, as the coverage just isn't there.
I agree though that they don't make much sense on a large tank, unless you WANT uneven lighting, as the coverage just isn't there.
hotshot619
New member
I have 4 PAr 38s over my 46 bow and all my coral seem to love the light. Plus I love the shimmer spotlight effect, and not so much of a box full of light effect from T5, so my front glass doesn't really get any algae growth on it. but that's just my .02
cardiffgiant
Active member
Looks nice. I second the concern for that housing. I've read that the bulbs should not be covered, but I haven't heard of anyone having specific problems after doing so.
BTW, SPS, acans, zoas, palys, and RTBAs are all doing well in my frag tank under these bulbs. I had challenges with some SPS and palys in the past, but a little patience and careful placement and good things have been happening.
BTW, SPS, acans, zoas, palys, and RTBAs are all doing well in my frag tank under these bulbs. I had challenges with some SPS and palys in the past, but a little patience and careful placement and good things have been happening.
Subw00er
New member
Really? Its aluminum and has cooling fins.. but the bulb runs so cool, you can touch the housing and its very cool.. I'll keep an eye on it though.. what happens when they overheat?!
BTW, if you look at the angle I have the light at, the led sits about halfway down the bowl, so most of the heat can go right out the left side there..
BTW, if you look at the angle I have the light at, the led sits about halfway down the bowl, so most of the heat can go right out the left side there..
Jstn
Member
Interesting advantage i never considered.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Part of the problem with dealing with thermal issues is that there won't be any immediately apparent symptom. In other words, it's not gonna suddenly die tomorrow or turn itself off if it's running "too hot."
It's important to understand that we are pretty much always operating these LEDs way below their terminal point from a thermal perspective. We are not going to kill them overnight by running them in a tight enclosure like that. BUT, you will see slightly lower efficiency (it'll consume the same power but produce maybe 5 or 10% less light) and slightly shorter lifespans (it may last 5 or 6 years instead of 8 or 10).
It's definitely not ideal to run these lamps in an enclosed fixture but it's not really the end of the world.
Are there any vents or holes near the top of the fixture? These lamps cool by convection, they creat drafts upwards between the fins - that rising hot air needs somewhere to go. If there were vents in the top of the fixture (near where the wire comes out) it would be less of an issue. If the fixture is really totally enclosed, I'd be concerned, personally, that I was going to shorten their lifespan.
Subw00er
New member
I'll have to give it a touch later and see how hot they get. I didnt touch the top of the lamp and it was actually cool to the touch, as is the bowl..
BTW, my Par38 is the older (?!) version with 5 LEDs - two white and three blue. I guess they have more LED's now?! Either way I still really like the setup.
BTW, my Par38 is the older (?!) version with 5 LEDs - two white and three blue. I guess they have more LED's now?! Either way I still really like the setup.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
It's hard to get meaningful info by touch on a fixture like this, since the parts that really "matter" are buried deep inside the case.
That said you have to ask if a small potential change in lifespan is really worth changing your setup. By the time that thing dies, the LED fixtures for sale will be way more efficient, compact, powerful, flexible, etc.
That said you have to ask if a small potential change in lifespan is really worth changing your setup. By the time that thing dies, the LED fixtures for sale will be way more efficient, compact, powerful, flexible, etc.
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