Partial Tank crash What went wrong?

travis32

New member
O.k. well, I hate to even be typing this as it really devastates my efforts and passion for this hobby.

I was gone for a week this week on business. I arranged for a great fellow reefer and friend to watch the tank. I told him to check it every 2 to 2.5 days. As the 5 gallon top off was going fast.

I left town Saturday morning, he checked it Monday, said he almost forgot out about it but checked and everything was great.

He checked it last night, and devastation hit. I got a call from him stating that they had some power flickers in the city and my breaker had flipped when the power flickered on rapidly. Unfortunately we don' tknow when the breaker flipped because it had been since Monday night he checked it last.

So, as much as 48 hours, but probably much less since the known power flickers were Tuesday sometime.

Well when he called yesterda, 6-7 of my 8 or 9 fish were dead and/or missing.

He indicated all corals, clams, and anemone looked good.. He removed the dead fish. (large fish that died.. My 7" marine betta just at 1 year old, my 5" Powder brown tang, my 3" bristletooth tang.. to name a few.)

My starry blenny and sleeper goby made themselves known and were alive while he was there. He was able to get the breaker flipped on and the tank restarted without a hitch!

With all the known dead, there was still a $100 mystery wrasse missing, cleaner wrasse, and small clown missing.

Well, tonight the clown was found attached to a power head. The cleaner wrasse showed up alive, and the sleeper goby and starry blenny were still alive 24 hours after power restored to the tank.

Tank hit 71 degrees as it's low temp. I had set my heater controller to 75, to allow the corals and fish to adapt to wider temp ranges if something like this happened. So, daytime temps hit 81 and night time temps would easily hit 75. Everything had adapted to this for the past month or so.

So, the most obvious cause of fish death was oxygen. My issue with that though is why not the corals? There should have been ammonia. My DSB is in the sump, without the sump ammonia processing would have been reduce (along with oxygenation).


Well, either way, what do people do to prevent this? I thought if I had a better controller that emailed me this could have been prevented, however, that's not true. Because, if the breaker flipped, that means my internet would have been off and no emails would have been sent.

Sounds like my RBTA split overnight. Which is a sign of stress. So, I'm hoping that the water quality is improving and not getting worse with time...

What's the impact of a DSB losing circulation for 24 hours then being turned on and feeding the display. If my clams and corals were o.k. are they now going to be killed as a result?

Or will the powerheads and water flow sufficiently reoxygenate the sump to prevent any massive die offs.

Ugg, I hate being too far away to do anything. I feel completelyhelpless as I hear my tank may be completely crashing...

I return on Saturday, I have no idea what I'm going to be coming home to. If it's in the middle of a cascading crash or in the middle of a complete recovery other than $250 worth of dead fish....

I still am at a loss as to why a loss of oxygen sufficient to kill 5 fish, would not have killed any corals? Can anyone explain the chemistry of that.?
 
I think fish require significantly more oxygen than corals. Also, do you use a GCFI adaptor to make sure your livestock didn't get electrocuted?
 
How would they get electrocuted? I'm just curious? The halides and controller prevents surges into the water. I've had power outtages before with no issues.
 
wow man you must be going crazy, that sounds so insanely frustrating to have all this going on and you can't do anything about it. That has been one thing ive been wondering how im gonna do is to have a backup power source incase i lose power. It sounds like you need someone who knows more what they are doing to take care of stuff when you are gone for any length of time, or some type of backup power system, which i think everyone should have. I would think if everything is back running there may have been a spike when it first came back but with water flowing it would be improving the conditions quickly.
 
He know what he's doing he has a 90g reef operating quite nicely. Problem is I based my instructions to him on the past month of operation. I monitored things closely in prep for this trip. I planned for as many things I could. I put a new screen on my scrubbed to make sure he wouldn't have.to change.it. I setup an auto flake feeder, made sure it was working. I took a hands off approach to make sure it ran itself while testing everything.. itested sump levels in case of power outrages. I simulated outages. Even had real ones. Everythin came on with no intervention from me! The only thing I may have missed is if the central ac.came on when the power came on that could have been too much draw and I didn't test that. The only thing different would naive been a backup battery on a powerhead... could have saved the fish. That's the only thing I can think of. Other than the person checking it every single day. Which I didn't ask him to do. Didn't think it was neccessary...
 
Something that can help those outages is the battery powered air bubblers, when the power goes out they kick on and run on 2 D batteries. With a lift tube they can even move the water a bit. 1 or 2 of those should be enough to keep the water oxygenated for a day or two.

Sounds like the power surge from everything trying to come back on at once tripped the breaker. Halides are like larger appliances, they spike when first coming on and that can do in circuits that are running near max. Splitting the tank across two circuits can help mitigate the single point of failure as well in case of GFI / breaker trips.

Sorry about the losses, never something you want to hear, especially after the work you put into preventing it in the first place.
 
Sorry about your loss. If you have a controller with web access, you can check it periodically while you are away. If you can't access the controller, then it is a sign of a potential problem and you can send someone to check into it.

I have android app for my neptune apex and I check it periodically while I am away. you can monitor graphs of temperature, ph, salinity, to see how the system is running. It also send you an email it the top off water container is low, sump is low, etc. there is a good forum on RC to help get it going.
 
I'm sorry to hear about your losses.

I agree that corals seem to be a lot more tolerant of low oxygen than fish, from what we can tell from lots of power outage reports. During the day, for example, photosynthetic symbionts can provide oxygen, and corals have relatively simple internal structures, which might help reduce the danger to them.

In the end, the only way to prevent this type of loss is a battery backup or generator scheme. :( I think your prep work was great.
 
Yeah, and not only did I lose $250 worth of fish. I realized if it was truely the main house breaker that had flipped (I don't know at this time if it was or not)

Well, everything in the fridge, fridge freezer, and 2 deep freezers would be lost. That would be close to $500-800 worth of human food. We had purchased 1/4 of a cow that's $500 alone, plus other misc. stuff easily equalling $300 worth of stuff.

Plus the fish that's a total net loss of $1,000 to a single power outtage.

I'm hoping the main power came on, but only the single circuit flipped or we're really screwed!
 
Got home, finally. It was just the room with the tank breaker that had shut off, thank god! The house / tank sitter had gotten the breaker bac on and everything, but, it wasn't as bad as I had feared.

The loss of 5 fish though is frustrating. 3 fish survived for sure. Cleaner Wrasse ($10), Sleeper Goby ($20), and Starry Blenny ($25.00)

Fish known dead:

Osc Clown: $15.00
Marine Betta (1 year old): $80 +shipping.
Powder Brown tang (3months): $50.00
Bristletooth Tang (5-6 months): ~$30-40

MIA:
Mystery wrasse (Unde 1 month): $99.00
~$285 in fish lost...
 
I agree, I saw that trend too.. Most likely because the cheaper fish are cheaper because they're hardier fish and therefore cheaper to maintain and sell?

The more expensive fish are harder to capture, maintain, and sell (and therefore harder to keep alive) therefore are more expensive? just a thought.

And thanks for the condolances. I appreciate them!

I am going to have to decide If I want to restock or not. With just 3 fish in the tank, maybe I can just go to feeding every couple of days and decrease my algae growth rates!

I'll have to decide too whether I want to stay in this or not. It's starting to become a money pit and I can't just keep shoveling money into it every time I turn around.. Arrg!
 
Controller, router and modem can all be run by a UPS along wit some powerheads for circulation. This allows emails to be sent indicating loss of power. It works.
 
Thanks Preef! I need a controller that is networkable, a UPS, and probably talking another power strip too. So, roughly... $500-800 depending on the controller. I agree, it would offer huge piece of mind! I would do it in a heart beat. But, it's hard to justify that kind of money. The Controller I have - Reef Keeper 2 from DA, is not network able, it's mainly a temp and ph monitor system and timer for lights.. That's about it. IT works, but, yeah, Full proofing the power issue would be nice!!
 
One suggestion I all ways give people, which might have saved your livestock, is make sure that you have 2 different circuits feeding your water movement devices. IE have your return pump on one circuit and at least one power head on a separate one. That way if a breaker trips you do not loose all water movement/oxygenation.

Kim
 
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