Pbt and ich

[SAYD]

I bought a powder blue tang about 3 months ago qt for over 2 months in a 72 gallon tank

Then moved him to the 220 and he ends up with ich.

I have been giving garlic all along with selcon. He mainly eats nori and gracilaria and is eating like a pig, but today he is covered in ich cysts, still eating and acting normal

This tank has well over 250lbs of rock, and I think I will do more harm then good trying to get him out.

Do any of the reef safe treatments work? Should I break the tank apart and put him in qt? Should I add a cleaner to offer him some relief last cleaner shrimp I had refused to clean fish

 

[alprazo]

Personally,

I would pull the PBT and treat immediately. They are ich magnents. The question rises though, what to do with the display.

 

[SAYD]

But won't that overly stress him out?

The tank can sit empty, but everything I have been reading says reduce stress. Any ideas how to do this

 

[TRENT_G]

What tank mates if any? I know my PBT gets stressed very easily and will get a few spots but they always go away as soon as the stress is gone. For example I just replaced my old power heads with two Votech MP40's and was messing around with the modes, the tang was covered with spots the next day. A day later all were gone. So maybe just give it a day or so. JMO

 

[steelhead77]

Read my posts in this thread for my thoughts on your problem. FYI, My PT was in a 72 Bow over 2 years ago when that pic was snapped. Now it's just fine and dandy in my 180.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1979004

 

[geaux xman]

what else is in the DT?

 

[SAYD]

Foxface and a fairy wrasse are in the display with him now they were all moved to the 220 gallon

The foxface and him have become the best of friends and the wrasse avoids both of them. So I think it was the stress from being moved from qt they were moved a week ago and the spots started showing up a fee days ago

 

[Chris27]

Move all the fish to QT, treat with copper or hypo, and leave the display fallow for 5-6 weeks with the temp set to 80-81F.

You can QT a fish for a year, if it goes into a tank with fish that were not actively QT'd prior, it's no mystery that the parasite took hold.

A fish won't die from stress, but it will die from a parasite that smothers it's gills. The best solution to the problem is to eradicate the parasite from the display tank via active QT and treatment.

 

[SAYD]

Move all the fish to QT, treat with copper or hypo, and leave the display fallow for 5-6 weeks with the temp set to 80-81F.

You can QT a fish for a year, if it goes into a tank with fish that were not actively QT'd prior, it's no mystery that the parasite took hold.

A fish won't die from stress, but it will die from a parasite that smothers it's gills. The best solution to the problem is to eradicate the parasite from the display tank via active QT and treatment.

The fairy and foxface were both clean, have had them both over 10 months. And were essentially qt'd for 10 months as they all went into the big tank at the same time. Newly set up tank so no prior instances of ich

The fairy and foxface have never had ich and weret qt when I got them 10 months ago.

I qt the pbt for 2.5 months prior to adding him and the fox and fairy to my new dt

 

[lisafoster]

I am on the side that moving him can stress him more. If he is still eating and looks good he may be able to fight it on his own. However if you want to go the treatment route all the fish havee to be removed and the tank has to be fallow for 8 weeks. Even if the others are not showing signs of ich they are still hosts for it. They also may show no signs but it could be in the gills where you cannot see it. I am battling ich right now heaters broke and I did not know it tank was in 60's for a few days. Stress caused a breakout. I just feed extra and everyone is surviving. every couple os days ich pops up on them however the breakouts are less severe each time.