perc clown fry
- Thread starter S-B
- Start date
tomorrow is the 3rd day for this batch of fry . The ammonia has
gone up alittle on my in tank sensor . I'm wondering if it's ok for me to do a part water change this early ? or even add prime ?
the new water will come from the parent tank .
I'm happy these fry look stronger then the first batch.
gone up alittle on my in tank sensor . I'm wondering if it's ok for me to do a part water change this early ? or even add prime ?
the new water will come from the parent tank .
I'm happy these fry look stronger then the first batch.
NicoleC
New member
If you have ammonia in the tank, and aren't using a conditioner like Amquel or Clor-Am-X, then YES do a water change. You can use parent tank water. Be careful siphoning -- I used a rotifer sieve placed in the water (with the end of the siphon hose inside) to do water changes with much smaller fry than clowns safely, just siphon slowly and be sure they don't get caught up against the screen.
Or you can use a water conditioner.
Or you can use a water conditioner.
LotR Clown
Active member
At the bottom is not good if the lights are on.. Not moving is worse. I would definitely check on why you have ammonia in the tank so early. Are you taking parent water too soon? Are you using IA or live phyto.
Just a few things to think of.
Kevin
Just a few things to think of.
Kevin
The parent tank water was taken 2 hours before the hatch.
I'm using live phyto along with my live rotifers.
This is what I've been doing step by step .
On the day I know they will hatch, I take 4/5 gallons of parent
tank water and start up my fry tank (usually 2 hours before lights out). I have 2 air stones running one at each end of the fry tank
and one of these two is under my heater at the one end.
temp is between 78.5 and 80 night and day.
after they hatch (the next morning) I tint the water alittle with
live phyto and add some rotifers. Whats IA ? The fry swim around and it looks like they are chasing/catching the rotifers.
on day 2 I turned on a 3rd airstone on the front of the tank
just a little and the fry still looked good .
today being day 3 I turned on a 4th air stone on the back wall
of the tank just alittle . all these two airstone were for is to help
keep water moving around the tank. they were not turned up
strong I kept them low.
Maybe more live phyto would have been the way to go ? i don't know.
on my in tank ammonia sensor it was at the first stage
(alert )
also , over the first 24 hours I lowered the waters salt from
1.024 to 1.020 as it said in the clownfishs book .
I'm not sure what happened this time .
it bothers me to have lost theses ones again at day 3
I'm using live phyto along with my live rotifers.
This is what I've been doing step by step .
On the day I know they will hatch, I take 4/5 gallons of parent
tank water and start up my fry tank (usually 2 hours before lights out). I have 2 air stones running one at each end of the fry tank
and one of these two is under my heater at the one end.
temp is between 78.5 and 80 night and day.
after they hatch (the next morning) I tint the water alittle with
live phyto and add some rotifers. Whats IA ? The fry swim around and it looks like they are chasing/catching the rotifers.
on day 2 I turned on a 3rd airstone on the front of the tank
just a little and the fry still looked good .
today being day 3 I turned on a 4th air stone on the back wall
of the tank just alittle . all these two airstone were for is to help
keep water moving around the tank. they were not turned up
strong I kept them low.
Maybe more live phyto would have been the way to go ? i don't know.
on my in tank ammonia sensor it was at the first stage
(alert )
also , over the first 24 hours I lowered the waters salt from
1.024 to 1.020 as it said in the clownfishs book .
I'm not sure what happened this time .
it bothers me to have lost theses ones again at day 3
Dman
New member
Sounds like you are doing everything right, could simply be that it's the second spawn.
Don't bother with the 3rd and 4th airstone untill well after the first week.
If this happens with the third or fourth spawn I would start looking for outside environmental causes, such as lighting or temperature fluctuations, mis-sized heater or leaking voltage.
Also, if you're dropping the salinity and there is ammonia present, even in small quantities, the pH difference between the tank water and the water you're using to drop the salinity could be turning the ammonia toxic, if that's the case definately look into an ammonia binding agent.
HTH
Dman
Don't bother with the 3rd and 4th airstone untill well after the first week.
If this happens with the third or fourth spawn I would start looking for outside environmental causes, such as lighting or temperature fluctuations, mis-sized heater or leaking voltage.
Also, if you're dropping the salinity and there is ammonia present, even in small quantities, the pH difference between the tank water and the water you're using to drop the salinity could be turning the ammonia toxic, if that's the case definately look into an ammonia binding agent.
HTH
Dman
I have read that using the ammonia binder does not prevent the bacteria from using the ammonia to make nitrite and then other bacteria to make nitrate. So if you use these products, you may still be culturing the right bacteria to take care of future ammonia. If true, the cycle happens, but without the toxicity to the fish. You do not, however prevent the build up of nitrates. If my first sentence is true....which I am not sure.
