Pete's 280 log

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here are some pics of the first acros in QT, I want to still do something with lighting as I have a 250w installed and I'm sure it will cook the corals. So, I either need to raise it up somehow or change this set up out with some T5's

end shot
qttank1.jpg


1/2 tank shot
qttank2.jpg


microphthalma
qttank3.jpg


and what’s left of the tricolor in a separate qt for now
qttank4.jpg
 
To pull the large rock out I had to prop my lights up about 4" from where they usually hang. In doing this it appears I am getting more light or at least the spotlight effect goes away with the lights mounted higher.

After seeing Marc's post on his light changeout and having some discussion with him on the distance required before you get light overlap we came to the conclusion that it may be a benefit to raise the lamps some. Now I'm convinced, that with my set up a couple inches higher is better. It appears the corals are now getting more light on their sides (or, less shadows). This shadow effect I was getting with the only reflectors 12" above the water line may have been a contributer to some basal STN I was getting on a couple sps.
 
What pump is that your have on you SQWD? I'm curious as to how much flow (gph) you're pushing through it. I know they can handle 3500 or so, but I know that increases the switching rate. For my 125 I was planning on pushing about 3400 thought the new SQWD to create a reversing gyre, but I believe at that flow it switches about every 30 sec which may be too fast.
 
Its a little giant 4-MD-SC

It's 850 GPH, so it's switching about every 2-3 minutes. I wish it was faster. The older Sqwd switched every 4 seconds. It was too fast as it wasn't enough time for the penductors to kick in much.
 
specs on the 3/4" ...

Flow into SCWD... SCWD TD Output... Efficiency.... Switching Duration

150 gph..... 90 gph.... 60% ...22 seconds

18 gph ...120 gph... 65% ...16 seconds

240 gph... 180 gph ...75%... 12 seconds

270 gph... 210 gph........ 80% ...10 seconds

330 gph... 240 gph.... 80%... 9 seconds

400 gph... 360 gph ...90%... 7 seconds

600 gph... 540 gph ....90% ...5 seconds

720 gph... 660 gph... 90% ...4 seconds
 
1" SCWD, Standard Drive
Swtiching Rate ...GPH
30 seconds ...3500
55 seconds... 1800
80 seconds ...1200
120 seconds ...900
155 seconds ...720
 
hows the aefw treatment going pete? [/B]

The QT - it went south on me on day 2. I have no idea what caused it but after a day about 30% of the corals were RTNing. I tossed a couple and did a partial water change. The next day about 50% were RTN. Unfortunatly, I was putting in some extra hours at work and couldn't do much. I suspect initial shock just got to a couple corals and who knows, in a smaller tank it probably had larger ph and temp swings then the corals were use to. I suspect the RTN caused an amonia spike and it just got worse from there. I salvaged what I could on Wed night but its looking like a 80 - 90% loss. The good news is I did not QT all my acros, this was lets call it, a test batch.
 
As for the AEFW's, I think the blasting I've been doing was keeping them from getting a hold on any other corals. I have not seen eggs on any coral except the Nana (the factory), this coral is now history so maybe the blasting and predators will take care of any strays I may still have. That said I have only seen one in the past month and a half, and that was on "the factory". I will dip what corals I can, but I'll take extreme measures to minimize additional shock. For example; setting up a dip station with tank water is good but temperature is only close for a few minutes (maybe 15), so the more corals, the longer it takes, and you will have more temperature shock on the later corals.

I want to finish the re-aquascape but am waiting on some shelf rock from Marco rocks. I ordered some about 2 weeks ago that was listed as being in stock but haven’t heard anything as of yet, so I'm getting a little concerned.

In the meantime I have a bunch of frags I want to get mounted and I also want to pull some rock and drill them. So "pegging" is my next logical step. I'll work the AEFW dips together with the mounting/pegging.

Dealing with AEFW’s is not fun and it appears to be pandemic to a lot of well established SPS tanks with no easy 100% solution. The current trend appears to be just get the numbers under control and to have predators to keep them in check. There are several people here on RC that have been trying whole tank treatments but the little buggers are tough. In my case I now fully suspect I have had them all along. But with the factory growing and providing the perfect abode for mass population (food and protection). This coupled with the fact that both my 6-line and mandarin have become fat and lazy on frozen mysis gave the AEFW’s a nice place to breed and little predation to keep them from spreading.

Although I hate to discuss "bad news" as it comes across as failure, I believe it's important for us to share the "bad news" as much as the "good news", as I would much rather learn form someone else’s bad news then to experience it myself
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12555873#post12555873 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismunn
wow, .... that really blows man. :( i shouldnt have even asked!

actually I'm glad you asked, as it gave me a lead in to do the update :)
 
Pete, today I was turkey basting a couple of corals because they needed it. My new efflo had a white fuzzy thing in the center, and I didn't know what it was but I did know I wanted it off the coral in case it was going to do harm. From there, I started blasting one thing after another, including my tricolor near the back of the tank. A huge flatworm came flying off, which I watched closely to see who was going to eat it. An anthias dodged out of its way - :rolleyes: - and it blew around the tank uneaten. I quickly decided it didn't deserve the opportunity to land on anything in my tank, so I sucked him out with the turkey baster when he got close enough.

I tried to squirt him into the sink and down the drain, but the water exited while he hung onto the inner wall of the turkey baster. What a pest. He's history now.
 
Marc â€"œ I think more of us have them then we think. I’ve been wondering wher I got mine and came to the following (copied from post I made on DFWMAS today)

A discussion on the source of my AEFW’s:

I gave it a lot of thought and it wasn't till SERVO and I started to discuss it at length that we both are leaning toward them being there all along. Or, from the live rock I got when I set up the tank, SERVO got some sps from the same guy at the same time and is pretty sure that's where he got his. I was having some issues with some corals earlier on, and now in looking back they could very well have been AEFW's and I do recall going through a cycle of the same type bite marks almost a year ago on the tricolor (but at the time I did not have a clue what they were). So, there is at least some evidence they may have always been there. If so the question becomes why are they now becoming more of an issue? and here are my thoughts on that

First - my 6 line and mandarin are lazy, fat, worthless, pigs. They use to hunt and pick at stuff but now they just gorge themselves on mysis.

Second â€"œ the Tricolor (AKA the factory) reached a point where it became a haven proving enough regenerative skin for food and enough branches to keep the population out of reach of predators.

Third â€"œ The red bug connection; if there is one. There appears to be some growing coincidence that once treated for red bugs AEFWs become a problem. I suspect the only relationship has to do with food source competition (red bugs win) and possible the red bugs kill or eat the small AEFWs to protect the food source

Forth- and less likely in my opinion is my drop off of my CuC. I suspect hermits and peppermints may help munch on AEFW’s, and why not the Anthias think they are cookies.

I thought they may have come in on a coral but I’ve QT and very closely inspected everything I added to the tank in the past year. I can’t say I QTed long enough so it’s still a possibility.

So my current hypothesis is; I’ve always had them from a known or at least suspected source. They were the demise of a few SPS, but at the time, I just didn’t know what to look for. The population use to be in check, but, for several interconnected reasons the population expanded. Don’t forget it wasn’t until I happened to read up on them that I started to inspect my SPS for them and viola, the signs were there on “the factory” walls big as graffiti calling out to me
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12555568#post12555568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismunn
specs on the 3/4" ...

Flow into SCWD... SCWD TD Output... Efficiency.... Switching Duration

150 gph..... 90 gph.... 60% ...22 seconds

18 gph ...120 gph... 65% ...16 seconds

240 gph... 180 gph ...75%... 12 seconds

270 gph... 210 gph........ 80% ...10 seconds

330 gph... 240 gph.... 80%... 9 seconds

400 gph... 360 gph ...90%... 7 seconds

600 gph... 540 gph ....90% ...5 seconds

720 gph... 660 gph... 90% ...4 seconds

Do you happen to have this chart for the 1" version by chance? I'm interested in what the output flow is in comparison to the input.
 
Chris posted this above

1" SCWD, Standard Drive
Swtiching Rate ...GPH
30 seconds ...3500
55 seconds... 1800
80 seconds ...1200
120 seconds ...900
155 seconds ...720

I think it's a little different from the chart I saw, but I had one that was pre release of the 1" SQWD.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12556404#post12556404 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by psteeleb
Chris posted this above

1" SCWD, Standard Drive
Swtiching Rate ...GPH
30 seconds ...3500
55 seconds... 1800
80 seconds ...1200
120 seconds ...900
155 seconds ...720

I think it's a little different from the chart I saw, but I had one that was pre release of the 1" SQWD.

Yes, I saw that, but thats not what I was asking for. I was asking for the same chart as I quoted stating I was interested in the output flow compared to the input flow. ;)
 
the 1" SCWD manual doesn't list any performance data. It only describes how to install it, clean it, and change out the internals
their web site doesn't even mention the 1" version.

I would take an educted guess and tell you that the % drop has to be quite a bit less given the much larger chamber allowing and space around the drive unit.

http://www.3iqventures.com/literature.html
 
so how many losses total have you suffered from thoes flatworms pete? it almost seems like it would have done less damage to leave everything alone and not even touch the flatworms :D...

i tell you what though, after following your battle, im deffinatly QTing everythnig i ever add into my tank! what a huge hassle to have to remove huge established colonies to fight a bunch of worms! arg :rolleyes:
 
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