Pharmers 75 Rimless LeeMar build *pics*

ReefPharmer

Active member
Here is a brief summary of my re-build of a rimless system that is 36x24 deep x 20 high. As of right now, I decided to go barebottom due to issues with sand i have in my bigger tank.
As a side note, I purchased this tank second hand, so some of the equipment is used.
Tank came on a premade stand (MDF wood) which had water damage spots all over it. If you never used MDF, dont use it to build a stand, water gets in and raises the "wood". Very bad look, especially on a white stand.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015294059/" title="rimlessstart by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6238/7015294059_d9bca9783b.jpg" width="240" height="320" alt="rimlessstart"></a>

I started by cleaning the tank and rebuilding the stand. I wont go deeply into the stand build as there are so many already on the site but here is the basic pic of it:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015294099/" title="standbuild by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6232/7015294099_049d5bf0cc.jpg" width="320" height="240" alt="standbuild"></a>
A tip for the stand builders out there: use a large 90 deg angle. Just because you cut your 2x4s at a 90, doesnt mean they will come together at a 90 degree perfectly. As a result, my stand was "off" a bit. Not enough to rebuild it but enough to irritate me and not fit a perfectly cut 36x24 top. i had to "alter" the top skin slightly.
I used Kilz primer/paint outdoor all in one, and coated it several times.
The other tip is consider where your overflow is ahead of time. Below is a pic of my plumbing and i totally did not consider where the overflow is and how it is plumbed. I had to cut the brace 2x4 down to size AFTER i glued/primed it because the elbow pvc would not fit obviously. TOTAL PIA! Dont make my mistakes.
I used 3/4 maple plywood to make the skin and walnut stain. The trim was all bought from HD. It was also stained / clear-coated.
<a href="http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/kk113/dlkley/?action=view&current=P1040807.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk113/dlkley/P1040807.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Not many people do this but I had a bad experience with a skimmer tipping over when i was away and filling the stand with water. Since then, i prefer to make a sort of a false bottom to collect water in case of an accidental overflow. Call me crazy.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015239543/" title="false botom by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7054/7015239543_dc979fdbe5.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="false botom"></a>
For the door, I have had issues lining up the hinges properly in the past, so i decided to just have a removable "door". To get it to properly sit in place, i used magnets on top o the "door" and inside the stand, and made sure it fits snugly.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6869128416/" title="magnet on door by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/6869128416_f10771e4b6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="magnet on door"></a>
The sump is glass w/ acrylic baffles that i put in with quite a bit of silicone. Another tip... figure out what skimmer you want to use, put it into the sump, THEN put in the first baffle for it. Dont make the mistake of putting in baffles that dont fit your skimmer. Here is a pic of the plumbing.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6869129026/" title="hitchhikerwtf by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6216/6869129026_753b6dda15.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="hitchhikerwtf"></a>
OOPS, I am not sure how he got in there. Ok here we go one more time, notice the circled area, i had to use a jigsaw and cut out the brace some, after it was sealed/primed, very irritating.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6869287806/" title="plumbing by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6091/6869287806_4942a10ccd.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="plumbing"></a>
For the skimmer, if you dont like the noise of the air humming, you can use a home made muffler :)
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015239641/" title="muffler by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6048/7015239641_297dfe8b8f.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="muffler"></a>.
 
In the middle area of the sump, i threw in some liverock from my larger tank. I put the rock here in hopes of preventing vermetid snails from going into the display. I will use a fine filter cloth to prevent them sucking into the return pump. You can see the whole sump here:
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015239773/" title="fullsumpview by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6051/7015239773_c03908bc3f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fullsumpview"></a>

Below is a pic of the whole tank as it stands now. You can see the while primer all around the edges of the tank. I will use black window "sealer" material (spongelike) to stick into those areas to prevent white from showing.
I used 1/2 inch R-tech foam from HD for padding between the bottom of the tank and the stand top. Cost about 6-7$ for 4x8 sheet. I had a bit of trouble getting the sheet into my 300zx.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6869128320/" title="full rockformation by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6097/6869128320_1ccb8a13bf.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="full rockformation"></a>

Here are the rest of the equipment list and plans:
1. Lights: currently have a 8 bulb New Wave T5 HO fixture that is 24 inches. I will probably end up not using this and using 2 120 watt dimmable bridgelux fixtures 55x3watt bulbs.
2. Skimmer is a AquaEuro 250 with a aquabee needlewheel pump. Pretty nice pump/quiet. Had to use my muffler to quiet down air noise.
3. Return pump is a eheim. Also very quiet and doesnt vibrate.
4. Circulation: for now, I have 3 koralias in there, 2 1400 evos and 1 smaller one. Since the tank is just cycling, i dont need anything bigger, but in the future, i will consider getting a controllable tunze.
5. Top off unit is a JBJ ATO. I will put in a 20gallon barrel behind the stand (its sitting so there is room behind it).
6. Dosing: i am still thinking about using kalkwasser or going with a reactor. My problem w/ a reactor is I do not have a ton of room in the stand so i would have to "hang it" above the sump basically if is deeper than 6 inches.
7. I will probably go with BRS dual or single reactor for phosphate removal as well as some chaeto into the rock area of the sump.

I filled the tank up 2 days ago and dropped a small chunk of frozen mysis in there. Now comes the part where i sit on my hands for 2 months and post about lakers run to the championship.

Here is the obligatory FTS:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7015240225/" title="fulltankshot by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6228/7015240225_57cba3bc2e.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="fulltankshot"></a>
So far thats it :)

Please comment/give tips etc.
 
Hi, your tank is looking great. Im also in the process of setting up a lee mar. I just finished the stand today. Im trying to figure out what to put between the tank and stand. How much did the foam squish down after placing the tank on top? Any way you could post a close up pic of the foam under the tank? My lee mar has an acrylic sheet attached to the bottom, I dont want it to look like its sitting too high.

Thanks
 
you can see the foam there, I did not consider it when i was installing the trim. The foam does not sit ABOVE the trim, but the tank bottom pane is definitely noticeable. However, you can use some black window sealer foam thats available in HD or any other store to stick in between the tank and trim so you do not see the white foam. I have foam left over if you want to come get some for free.
 

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Thanks for the info and the offer, Reefpharmer. I'll have to check it out next time I'm at Home Depot. I'd take you up on your offer, but with price of gas, I dont think I'd be saving any money lol. I might also look into using those cabinet liners or black craft foam from Michaels. Keep up the good work!
 
Really no update except that its ... challenging ... to keep throwing fish food into an empty tank waiting a month for ze cycle! The speed of this cycle reminds me of a Meta World Peace drive to the basket... agonizingly slow and unpredictable.
On another note, during transport, I (my brother) scratched the front glass somewhat. I am looking into ways to buff out the scratch.
 
Tank is ready for some CUC. Last time I got some from some place online (I cannot remember from where though). If anyone has suggestions on CUC, let me know :). I had a supposedly reef safe red legged crab eat the living chit out of my zoas. I didnt realize what was happening and thought they were just dying quickly.
 
Ok i got some updates (i know its been a long time).

I had a little fish emergency in my 180 so I had to move the corals to this tank a bit earlier than I wanted, but it is what it is.

I have been experimenting with different lights and decided on some LEDs.

Below are some pics of LEDs along with Par readings.

These are 2 72 watt cree fixtures dimmable. PAR at 24 inches is 175.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/7138094591/" title="2 cree 72 watt 3 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/7138094591_4c6330a119.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2 cree 72 watt 3"></a>
Par 24 inches under the lamps (at the bottom of my tank) was 187. It goes up from there up to 1300 right under the fixtures.
The fans are fairly quiet and do not make a racket.
Here is another shot
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6992012544/" title="2 cree 72watt 2 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7207/6992012544_726fd23337.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="2 cree 72watt 2"></a>
and some corals
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6992012420/" title="fragrack1 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8155/6992012420_d25fcfd82f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="fragrack1"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6992012388/" title="torch by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/6992012388_f04b13717b.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="torch"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/60123349@N06/6992012368/" title="zoa 1 by playaslk, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/6992012368_a923aea9ef.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="zoa 1"></a>
For anyone who wants to know where I got these, I got them here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-LED-72...451?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f16fb1973

I am fairly happy with these lights, but will test out some 120 watt bridgelux LEDs dimmable
 
looking good David!!

what happened to the 180??

text me if you need any help, my schedule is pretty open this week!!
 
thats funny, i posted 2 par numbers under the cree. The first one i believe was lower because my hand got in the way. Lawrence thanks! I ended up going with the bridgelux 120 watts because of the more even spread even though the par is a bit less. It has better spread / softer edges due to wider optics. I will post some pics tonight
 
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