Phosphates in RO/DI Water

[HBtank]

Tk, when you mention using two chloramine specific blocks with three canister slots, why not two? From what I have seen the standard universal block from BRS is rated similar to all chloramine carbon blocks (3500 gallons at 0.5), and the minimum they use on 5-6 stage filters.

I am looking to beef up my filters and monitoring them better, had ordered some new sediment and carbon blocks, but your post got me thinking about my DI setup and always going with bulk mixed beds for both. Thinking of this:

GE 1 micron depth > FX chloragaurd > BRS Universal Carbon > RO > Spectrapure Max DI > BRS mixed bed DI

 

[mitch91175]

Here is a thread I put together a few years ago (almost 3) when I added the chlorplus 20BB.

I've probably made over 12,000gals of RODI at a 4:1 ratio. That means this filter has withstood 60,000 gallons of chloramine treated water. Can't tell you how many regular 10" filters I would have gone through in that time frame. The only filters I have changed are sediment and DI. I get about 2000 gallons out of my DI, vs about 200 prior to the switch. My municipal treats at 4ppm chloramines.


http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2483520

All great info guys. All of this definitely make you keep an eye on your water. :fun2: You always learn something no matter how long you have been in the hobby.

 

[HBtank]

All great info guys. All of this definitely make you keep an eye on your water. :fun2: You always learn something no matter how long you have been in the hobby.

Especially if you thought you knew, but refinements were made since. Single bed DI and other filter refinements were not even a “thing” in the hobby when I thought I knew my stuff!

I personally have little problem spending a little xtra on my filters, heart of the system!

 

[tkeracer619]

Tk, when you mention using two chloramine specific blocks with three canister slots, why not two? From what I have seen the standard universal block from BRS is rated similar to all chloramine carbon blocks (3500 gallons at 0.5), and the minimum they use on 5-6 stage filters.

I am looking to beef up my filters and monitoring them better, had ordered some new sediment and carbon blocks, but your post got me thinking about my DI setup and always going with bulk mixed beds for both. Thinking of this:

GE 1 micron depth > FX chloragaurd > BRS Universal Carbon > RO > Spectrapure Max DI > BRS mixed bed DI

The honest reason they are in there is because I was running that setup before I added the chlorplus 20bb. The addition of the 20bb stopped me in my tracks. I went from 200gal per DI cart to 2000gal per cart. Pretty much stumbled upon something awesome and ran with it

 

[mitch91175]

Good news first. After putting in the new BRS Chloramine & Chlorine block, I no longer have an ammonia reading for the fresh water. Bad news, after mixing the salt, I am getting an ammonia reading of 0.69 mg/L and the alkalinity is 288ppm (a whopping 16dKH). I want to try to keep my aquarium at 9-10dKH. So to get there I stop adding Kalk to my top off and started letting alkalinity drop naturally. Currently my DT is at 11.37dKH but if I add in this new batch I am sure it will push me back higher to around 14dKH (55 gallons for the water change for a 270 gallon total water volume DT). Is that too high for a mixed reef that isn't stocked too much right now?

 

[mitch91175]

I have come to the conclusion that after I run through my current salt, I am longer doing water changes. I have been reading on individuals not doing water changes and have thriving aquariums. I know from reading that all mixes have some type of ammonia in them, but I just cannot bring myself to investing in high end SPS until I get a handle on everything. I will dose ALK/CAL/MAG to keep those levels where I want them to be.

I know a little ammonia shouldn't overall hurt my system since it has been setup for almost 4 years, but trying to keep all of my other parameters as level as possible looks like it is going to be a pain from mix-to-mix. I get that the levels are a little higher in mixes, etc. but man can they fluctuate and from all of my understanding in the hobby is that too much fluctuation can cause problems and those that I can avoid I will try to do my best to avoid.

Hey will also save me some money on salt, RO/DI filters, etc that I can apply to additions to the tank.

NOTE: I will still keep the system for RO water but not use for salt unless absolutely necessary.

 

[tkeracer619]

What salt are you using and what test kit are you using?

Those that are successful with no or few waterchanges rarely decide to do it, the tank tells them it doesn't need it over time.

 

[mitch91175]

What salt are you using and what test kit are you using?

Those that are successful with no or few waterchanges rarely decide to do it, the tank tells them it doesn't need it over time.

Using reef crystals. Testing with a Milwaukee Mi407 Ammonia (Low Range) Photometer for both fresh/saltwater. I could have understood a lower ammonia like 0.01-5 but that high is crazy scary. Just for grins gonna test it again to see if it changed. I aerated the water over night and tested in the morning.

 

[mitch91175]

I get a Hanna HI761 tomorrow to check to make sure that I do not have any chloramines. Changed all my filters so that 100% better not be the case. Just ruling out stuff.

 

[bertoni]

Some people who skip water changes do well; others have serious problems. Over time, I'd expect the ionic balance to shift and cause problems, on average, but that's going to vary. Water changes are relatively easy and inexpensive, and can do a lot:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php

 

[ramseynb]

Using reef crystals. Testing with a Milwaukee Mi407 Ammonia (Low Range) Photometer for both fresh/saltwater. I could have understood a lower ammonia like 0.01-5 but that high is crazy scary. Just for grins gonna test it again to see if it changed. I aerated the water over night and tested in the morning.

Check out ESV salt. You'll need a small digital kitchen scale and it's a little more work to mix, but it's well worth it. Mixes perfect every time and is on the lower side on alk.

 

[mitch91175]

Check out ESV salt. You'll need a small digital kitchen scale and it's a little more work to mix, but it's well worth it. Mixes perfect every time and is on the lower side on alk.

I may have to look into that rather than the salts that are already all mixed together for when I do need to do a change. Just too untrusting right now of the premixed solutions. There is someone on my local forum selling some of it.

 

[mitch91175]

Total ULR test read 0. So definitely nothing in fresh RO water. Oh well, moving on from it. Just lessons learned to not trust a salt mix. Test it every time.