Pimafix is no good for bta?
- Thread starter T Haynes
- Start date
ThRoewer
New member
I'm not sure what you are doing but ammonia or nitrite should never be present in detectable amounts.
Temperatures between 23°C and 27°C are fine. BTAs are not specifically shallow water anemones like gigs and should be fine with normal reef temperatures. Also, the fact that some anemones can handle extremes doesn't mean they actually need or like it.
Medicating a tank with inverts is always very risky. That's why you should treat your fish in a hospital tank.
1.021 kg/l is a bit low. The salinity should be between 34 ppt and 35.8 ppt.
Check here for conversion tables: http://www.aquatext.com/tables/hyd23-28.htm
Here you find a map with ocean salinities: https://d32ogoqmya1dw8.cloudfront.net/images/eslabs/corals/global_avg_salinity.gif
How large is your tank?
How much live rock do you have in it?
What kind of filter, circulation and skimmer are you using?
How often do you change water?
To post pictures click the "Go Advanced" button below the Quick Reply field and then scroll on the Advanced Reply page down to click "Manage Attachments"
Temperatures between 23°C and 27°C are fine. BTAs are not specifically shallow water anemones like gigs and should be fine with normal reef temperatures. Also, the fact that some anemones can handle extremes doesn't mean they actually need or like it.
Medicating a tank with inverts is always very risky. That's why you should treat your fish in a hospital tank.
1.021 kg/l is a bit low. The salinity should be between 34 ppt and 35.8 ppt.
Check here for conversion tables: http://www.aquatext.com/tables/hyd23-28.htm
Here you find a map with ocean salinities: https://d32ogoqmya1dw8.cloudfront.net/images/eslabs/corals/global_avg_salinity.gif
How large is your tank?
How much live rock do you have in it?
What kind of filter, circulation and skimmer are you using?
How often do you change water?
To post pictures click the "Go Advanced" button below the Quick Reply field and then scroll on the Advanced Reply page down to click "Manage Attachments"
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I have 10 gallon setup. I'll have to get something to lower ammonia then because I don't think it's going down on its own. I have no live rock. Got 2 good size base rocks in there and have been putting stress zym + in there. I have a penguin 150 on it, currently no carbon because of pima fix. How can I treat the clown with out using pima fix? Anenome has been in there for about 5 days now. Was responsive to touch last night and mouth was closed but now he's drooping and mouth open this morning.
ThRoewer
New member
If you have ammonia your clown won't get better. You need to fix the cause of its disease before you can cure the disease.
Chemicals won't help you and are only suitable as short term solution in quarantine tanks.
Forget all the fancy sh.. the fish store wants to sell you.
All you need is this:
- Tank: for a beginner a 20 gallon should be the minimum as smaller tanks are much more tricky to keep stable.
- Heater/Chiller: a chiller is needed if you live in an region where it can get hot and can just be a fan for a small tank.
- Live Rock: at least some of it should be the real stuff from the ocean or have been in a well established and well functioning reef tank for a minimum of 6 months.
- Flow Pump: can have a filter but doesn't have to.
- Skimmer: I found the air operated Red Sea Berlin Airlift 90 to be perfect for a 10 to 20 gallon tank, but you have to use a bigger air pump than recommended and ignore their water level sticker.
- Light: this depends largely on what you want to keep. Anemones require a certain minimum and may be picky about the light color as well. LEDs or T5s are probably your best choices.
- Experience: as a beginner you should get at least some books and do some serious online research to get the knowledge you need. Don't rely on the store personal - way too often they don't really know what they are doing (especially at Petco, Petsmart and the like) and just want to sell you their products.
I will upgrade the tank if I can when my 65 is done cycling. How can I get the ammonia to stay down with out using the chems? I used all the startup stuff properly and it still had .50 ppm. Nem looks better now but I've read a lot of people say that and 2 days later their nems are dead. So hopefully this ammonia killer works
I'll probably be picking up my buddy's live rock since he just took his tank down. Has a skimmer to but it's only for a 55 I believe. Once the ammonia is right the 10 will be a qt and I'm gonna have him come down and help me get my 65 right
m0nkie
Well-known member
research and more research is the only way to get ready. there's plenty of proven ways to start a tank. no need to re-invent the wheel
ammonia will not lower on its own. It will only build up. your base rock has no bacteria to break down the ammonia. Stress Zym+ removes chlorine from water, not ammonia. Pimafix is a bacterial infection medication. You should worry about water quality first THEN medication...
BTAs won't survive in a brand new tank. You need a cycled tank of 3 months or more (if you know what you are doing). Some people say 6 months to a year before adding anemone.
BTA will inflate and deflate when they are new to a tank. they are performing internal water changes. they will look good and then look bad. your tank is not cycled. your 65 DT is still cycling.. switching the BTA and clowns over after it's cycled may save the clowns, but not the BTA..
I suggest you return the BTA. then do massive water change in the 10 gallon until ammonia is all gone. then keep doing water change until your DT is ready.
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