planning a 55g seahorse/fish tank

[candeewolf]

Well, I've got a leftover 55g hex tank from my last upgrade (complete with stand/sump/hood/equipment) that's 24" tall. I've got a mated pair of bangaii cardinals that I want to move into it along with 2 or more seahorses. I honestly don't really know what else to go for other than a bunch of macroalgae and sponges. I'm thinkin of some pipefish, firefish, pistol shrimp + watchman goby, flame hawkfish, and green clown goby....but I'm not sure. I really want a calm tank with not too much activity to spook the seahorses and bangaiis, plus it would be nice to accurately display the habitat and fishes that coexist with bangaiis and seahorses (probably H. erectus) in the wild.

So I'm looking for all suggestions of what tankmates would be paired well with the bangaiis and seahorses. I dont even know which species of seahorse I would like to get, but definitely something that gets larger than 6" maximum (probably H. erectus or H. kelloggi, maybe H. reidi). I also don't know what macroalgae to go for other than maybe some red grape, razor, codium, and chaeto.

Any help?

 

[rayjay]

Although there are exceptions, seahorses don't do well with most reef fish.
Mixing species of syngnathids can be, and usually is, problematic.
Seahorses, even the same species from a different source, or pipefish (which are almost always wild caught), each carry pathogens that they can be used to and have some immunity towards, but that immunity doesn't protect them from the pathogens of other horses/pipes from different sources. Usually one or the other or both will succumb to the pathogens, most times leading to death.
Another common problem is rampant multiplication of bacteria that seahorses are inherently susceptible to, at reef temperatures.
It is generally recommended to keep seahorses at 74° F or lower with 68° being referenced as the temp. to keep in quarantine/hospital tanks.

 

[namxas]

just one more note: the "H. kelloggi" that have been showing up in the trade are actually hybrids (kelloggi x kuda, most likely), and have had REALLY dismal survival rates, even under expert care. the SH in question, even tho they are touted as "TR", are really raised in net pens in the ocean or in large systems with untreated seawater, and are thus exposed to all of the same pathogens as WC specimens.

these SH are really bred for the TCM trade, and most are destined to be dried and ground into powder, so long-term quality isn't high on the list of concerns.

i'd stay away from these SH.

also, bear in mind that even tropical SH do best in the 70*F-74*F temp range, so plan your tank accordingly. the reason for keeping the SH cooler is to reduce the bacterial count in the system, as SH are very prone to getting bacterial infections.

HTH

 

[candeewolf]

Yes, I do know about the temperature difference, but there have got to be some natural inhabitants where they live, right? Atm the only ones for sure that I would want to put in there would be seahorses (looks more like H erectus would be the better choice, since theyre much easier to get CB it looks like...) and my banggai pair.
I read the compatability list on seahorse.org and didnt go with anything higher than 2, but it seems that a seahorse/banggai tank would be more interesting and colorful with a couple other small, docile, inactive fish. Could I fit more than 6 erectus and a pair of banggais?
Also, since the corals I would be adding dont need much light, would PCs provide the best looking light while not adding too much?

 

[LCP136]

I think PCs would be a good choice for low light coral, macroalgae, and because more powerful and seahorses might look for a dimmer spot.