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Re: Re: 2 part bi-onic

Re: Re: 2 part bi-onic

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13381184#post13381184 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
overview:
You first bring up the individual levels of your water parameters and then you maintain those levels with two part.
Each week you test the parameters and make adjustments in the amt of two part you are using.
by the third or fourth week of doing that your levels should be maintained.
The first jug is part 1 which is for alkalinity and the second jug or part two is for calcium and magnesiium.

BTW
thanks for asking questions on the method--it helps we revise it so it is crystal clear for everyone.
Click to expand...

Hello Capn!

Hope you don't mind - I took the liberty. Please let me know if this is correct:

Using a two part dosing system has brought great stability to my tanks water chemistry; specifically Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, and indirectly pH.

Interested in starting? Here is one way to do it:

Step 1: Bring up the individual levels of your water parameters:
Bring up your Alkalinity levels with Kent Super dKh (8-11 dkH)
Bring up your Calcium levels with Kent Turbo Calcium (400 plus ppm)
Bring up your Magnesium levels with Kent Tech-M to (1300ppm)

Step 2: Maintain those levels with ESV B-Ionic Two Part:
Week 1 - Go on the suggested dose of Two Part
Week 2 - Re-test Alk, Cal, Mag, and adjust the amount of Two Part accordingly
Week 3 - Re-test Alk, Cal, Mag, and adjust the amount of Two Part accordingly
Week 4 - Re-test Alk, Cal, Mag, and adjust the amount of Two Part accordingly

By Week 3 & 4 your levels should be maintained.
Continue for an additional month like this and you should have stable water chemistry

ESV B-Ionic Calcium Buffer is the original, unique, easy to use, two-component liquid supplement system. When using equal volumes of each component, the aquarist can easily maintain calcium and alkalinity levels with no mixing powders, disruption of ionic balance, or addition of organic chemicals. B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System does not contain phosphates or nitrates. In addition to supplying highly concentrated calcium and carbonate alkalinity required for calcification, B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System also provides all other important major, minor, and trace elements in the proper ratios to duplicate the composition of natural seawater. As a result, B-Ionic Calcium Buffer System will help restore inorganic ions lost from protein skimming and help maintain the ionic balance of the aquarium water.


ESV B-Ionic Part 1 is for Alkalinity
ESV B-Ionic Part 2 is for Calcium and Magnesium
 
wanted to make sure im ok with the fish load i have.
i have a 90 gal about a year old. megaflow 3 sump, 10 gal fuge and an aqua c ev120 skimmer, gamma 25 watt uv sterilizer, and i run carbon about once a week. i use filter material that i change weekly in my sump. i have probably around 100lbs of live rock in my tank.
for fish i have a hippo tang, a yellow tang, they both get along great, a mandrin, a firefish, a false percula clown, and a green clown goby. for inverts, i have 2 peperment shrim, one cleaner shirmp, 2 emeralds, a sand sifting star, one clam, maybe a dozen astrea snails, 6 narsis snails, one turbo. a little less then a dozen hermit crabs. thats about it. if anyone can make any suggestions either about my setup or amount of fish it would be greatly apreciated, i still consider myself new at this and any advice helps. thanks
 
Water test charts

Water test charts

Hi There -

I made these up based on info I have researched - what do you think? Are the suggestions correct? I was hoping that maybe they could be added to the newbie area to help others.
 

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Mlaper, you're doing fine, imho, if everybody is getting along. ULTIMATELY if those tangs both grow to max, you are going to be looking either at the sad choice to sell one, or to upgrade the tank. But you're fine for now. You might work in a single blenny for variety, and to live along the bottom: most everything you've got is midwater but the mandy and green clown goby.
 
I have kinda rethought my fish list since i posted it here a bit ago and the capt suggested a mimic tang and i think i like that idea alot after looking into it so here it is .

chocolate mimic tang

yellow tang

potters or swallowtail angel

diamond goby

4 or 5 blue streak cardinal fish

i have 3 peppermint shrimp 2 bluelegged crabs and about 10 or so astrea snails right now.
 
Re: Water test charts

Re: Water test charts

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13386603#post13386603 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tapiana
Hi There -

I made these up based on info I have researched - what do you think? Are the suggestions correct? I was hoping that maybe they could be added to the newbie area to help others.
Click to expand...

great charts and info using the two part tapiana---I will make a blog of them as soon as I can
 
Phew. It took me forever to read all of this thread. I wanted to read it all so that I didn't ask things that have already been covered!

I have been doing lots of research and am thinking that there are a lot of critters I love! I just can't decide who gets the honor of being in my first sw tank.

I have the stock Oceanic 29 g biocube. No hacks yet. I am not ready for that yet. I need to get my feet salty with what I have before I spend any more. :)

Some ideas I have so far and would love feedback on...

Can a false perc and a b/w clown go together in a tank? They have this in a display at the LFS and I just love it. But, I have learned that my LFS employees aren't always the best advice.

My daughter is begging for a royal gramma basslet.
I love the look of the 6 line wrasse.
I also love the coral beauty angel.
Blue chromis very interesting.
I like the sand sifting goby I saw at the LFS.
Was loving the idea of a goby /pistol pair until I saw the pistol video of him whacking that shrimp. Eeeks!!!!

Anyway, what would you recommend for a beginner in the 29g biocube? Any combination of any of these that would work well?

As for clean up, how many shrimp/emerald crabs/snails, etc would do well in this small tank?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13099095#post13099095 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
Run carbon if you run softies. And you might look at the "Why I recommend mushrooms" thread, because there will be a lot of info there on what species are 'easy' and what NOT to let onto your structural rock. ;)
Click to expand...

run carbon if you run softies----curious about that one SK8R

do you have the link to the mushroom thread--I would like to add it to the blog
 
Id posted a question quite some time ago about stocking, but my plans have changed.

90gal standard
approx 20gal sump + fuge
Approx 75pnds lr and 30pnds ls
I think thats all.....

Currently have: 2 black saddleback clowns
1 Lawnmower Blenny
1 Bannerfish(Not picking my corals..yet)

Want: 1 Yasha Goby + Pistol Shrimp
1 Longnose Hawkfish
1 Bangaii Cardinal
1 Yellow Tang(May stay away completely) or Sixline Wrasse or Some other reef safe wrasse

I dont want a heavy stock list....would we consider this light, med, heavy?

Comments Appreciated Once Again
 
Ok so still plaing out my stock list for my planed 55 gal
set-up includes a
-remora skimmer with 1200 maxi HOb
-2 x korilia 3
-phosphate reactor
-penguin 350 without the bio-wheels with carbon in media bags
-aprox 90lbs of sand 80lbs mix of pool filter and aragonite and 10 lbs live
-aprox 90lbs base rock and about 10-20lbs LR

The stock list I am thinking of consists of
-2 False Perculas
-1 firefish
-1 royal gramma
-1 bicolor blenny
-5 blue green cromis
-1 neon goby
-2 porcelain crabs

CUC to start
5 scarlet hermits
5 nasarius snails
5 cerith snails
5 turbos snails

How does this look stock level wise and also if these will all be ok what order would you add them in? Will be added one maybe two at a time with a one month QT for all fish. The tank will be softies with a couple lps when I upgrade my lights.
 
I am not sure if this is the right place to post this, but its a question about a fish that i got. I got a niger trigger a while ago, but i have been reading this thread, and i see some people that have 90 gallon tanks say their tank is too small for a niger trigger already! i only have a 46 gallon tank, and my lfs said it was ok to get it. Does anyone know what the minimum size tank you need for a niger trigger?
 
I'm in the process of adding fish to my cycled tank. I have owned reef setups before so I know to take my time and when to add fish with special needs, etc. However I have derived a list of fish I would like to add. It will be another reef setup. Tank details in my current tanks details.
Pair of maroon clowns
Blue tang
Yellow tang
Chromis
Flame Angelfish
Lawnmower blenny
Ribbon eel
Mandarin

In what order should I add each of these guys???
 
I was thinking of getting a naso tang. I have researched and found different size for the tank size. I have 120 gal that is 60 inches long and 24 inches tall.

Now I do have a sailfin in there and wanted your advice on if I could keep it? I have about 150 pounds of live rock so plenty for it to pick on and to hide. I have a sump also
 
Boy, am I behind---been building a backyard pond...3000 gallons....
The reason for running carbon if you run softies is because even the milder softies 'spit'. They flood chemicals into the water to battle for space to grow, but in a closed system, the chemicals come right back around. If you run carbon, which removes organics, it 'sweetens' the water. I used to have an unidentified encrusting leather whose only activity was turning from bubblegum pink to lavender violet if annoyed, and if that guy got annoyed, everything would close up, and even begin to die. Run carbon, and he'd calm right down and everything would open up.

Re some of the questions about larger fish: if you get 2x the recommended tank for the fish you want to keep, you and your fish will be a lot happier: here's why....
Say the recommendation is 70 for a fish. The people recommending this want the fish to live, yes, but they also want to sell more fish, because they're in business to sell more fish: only logical. So 70 is indeed the minimum size, and there are far more 70g tanks out there than there are 150's. So if you, as a business, recommend the absolutely squeaky minimum, more people will buy this fish...
But if you as a hobbyist have pushed the minimum on one fish, I would respectfully advise you do not do it twice, say, with another fish on which you have pushed the minimum. My recommendation is you get only one of these per tank, and if you HAVE the minimum tank recommended for a particular fish, say, at 70 g, then all the other fishes you have should be minimum 30 g or thereabouts.

I know this is not welcome advice for people with a 50 gallon tank (I am one) but marine fish grow very large, in scale with the ocean, and if you have a tank under 100 g you do have to limit what you buy and try to maintain some wiggle room in case you have a water quality crisis.

The more crowding of fish at the max level recommended, the more incidence of disease, fighting, wounds, infections, and dinged-up fish, none of which should happen.

And if you then suffer a power out, you have a major crisis. I know by experience my tank can go 8 hours without a pump. If I had 2-3 fish all of which separately pushed the 50g limit, that time could be cut severely, including for the other fish that are 30g size.

So think about it. You want your fish to be happy and healthy. You do have to plan the tank as a whole to support everybody, and if you want more, plan a second or larger tank. If you're going to have a 'big' fish for your size category, plan to have your other fish be the little guys, the blennies, gobies, dartfishes, jawfishes, that will (also) live at the bottom level of your tank). Of course, if you are a 300g tank, your 'little' guys will be differently defined, and something as small as a goby could be in danger.

Now in predator tanks, ie, fish that eat other fish---you have a different problem. You have to watch mouth size---but remember, fish grow. Fish with defenses (poison spines) will use them when cornered. Enough room is the key. If nobody gets cornered or pushed, you're cool. Observe your fish, how much territory they're actually using at their farthest venture from their home base, and give them another half body length all the way around. Do that for everybody and you'll have a basic idea of how much space you have. If you have a 'patrolling' predator, be sure that one of those has time/room to be at the other end of the tank and that his 'moving zone' is not crossing that of another 'moving zone'. They may cross zones in mid tank, but if each has 'empty' space behind and immediately ahead, he will not feel cornered. The more of these ballets you have to manage, the more complex your tank, but ideally, everybody has breathing room...and ideally you have one heck of a skimmer and plenty of live rock to handle the output of this many meat-eaters. You may also need a phosphate reactor/fuge, and you will need a herbivore capable of self-defence: tangs and rabbits and some angels fall into this category.
 
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hodge, I'd advise leave out the ribbon eel, which will eat several of your other fish. I lost 300.00 worth of little fishes to its relative, the ghost eel, and had to unbuild my rockwork to get him out.
 
wonnacut, I think you're ok, but I'd go with one chromis in a 50.

I'm going to leave the tang questions to Cap'n. He knows that species far better.
 
Thanks Sk8r... Was just a thought on the ribbon anyhow... WHich particular order should I put them in??? I know the mandarin will be last and so will the maroons...but the rest, does it matter??
 
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