Please help ID this anemone

[billabong08]

I went to a LFS today and my girlfriend just fell in love with this tiny anemone. It was cheap so I bought it. Now I don't know what kind it actually is. I SHOULD have done more research before purchasing but everyone knows how these impulse buys are. lol.
Unknown Anemone ( The worker said its a mini "Maroon" Anemone) I have never heard of it. Nor can I find any thing about that. It was only $10. I was thinking it is a Condy anemone but This one is so small I don't think its one. Any help will be appreciated! :

FTS with new little anemone. The anemone is in front of the left rock on the sand. if that helps :

 

[elegance coral]

It's really hard to say in its bleached and sickly state. Aurora, maybe?????

 

[billabong08]

It's really hard to say in its bleached and sickly state. Aurora, maybe?????

What do you mean by bleached?

Also does it look sick? Also how can you tell they are sick?

 

[jwilliams860]

looks like h.crispa to me(sebae anemone) can tell if its bleached to bad, there are some white color with purple tips.

 

[JamesJR]

That is a heteractis Aurora. The striated patterns around the mouth and the pinkish base are a give away. The anemone is bleached and looks like it is in pretty weak condition but it may pull through. Has it attached?

 

[billabong08]

Yes it attached where it is in the picture. And the mouth is closed and tight.

 

[billabong08]

With closer Observation on each tentacle there are little beads that lead to the end. So that means it is a Aurora/Bead anemone correct?

 

[garygb]

Yeah, looks like a totally bleached H. aurora.

Bleached means the anemone has lost it's symbiotic algae that live inside the tissue. That anemone should be a rich, chestnut brown. With proper light and supplemental feedings, you can probably keep it alive and it will regain the algae. The algae supplies the majority of the nutrition utilized by the anemone. Feed it small pieces of shrimp, squid, silverside, etc. to provide nutrition and expedite the algae recolonizing the tissue.

 

[billabong08]

Yeah, looks like a totally bleached H. aurora.

Bleached means the anemone has lost it's symbiotic algae that live inside the tissue. That anemone should be a rich, chestnut brown. With proper light and supplemental feedings, you can probably keep it alive and it will regain the algae. The algae supplies the majority of the nutrition utilized by the anemone. Feed it small pieces of shrimp, squid, silverside, etc. to provide nutrition and expedite the algae recolonizing the tissue.

Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it!

 

[ReefAus]

Yeah, looks like a totally bleached H. aurora.

Bleached means the anemone has lost it's symbiotic algae that live inside the tissue. That anemone should be a rich, chestnut brown. With proper light and supplemental feedings, you can probably keep it alive and it will regain the algae. The algae supplies the majority of the nutrition utilized by the anemone. Feed it small pieces of shrimp, squid, silverside, etc. to provide nutrition and expedite the algae recolonizing the tissue.

Hi

When you say tissue, are you talking the oral disk or the tentacles themselves? I have a crispa and the tentacles are green in colour with magenta tips but has a white oral disk; is this normal? Thanks.

Rgds

Steve

 

[elder luis]

I had an Haiti Anemone that´s pretty close to it...

 

[gsmXwsm]

This tissure which he is peaking if is primarily the base or foot, the "body" and the tenticles. Different species of anemone have vary different charecteristics sometimes, though this symbiotic algae exists in all species. I have nursed 2 anemones back from near death- a LTA and RBTA, and what worked well for me was 1. supplimental feeding- i use silversides, (a small sardine like fish), and the first few weeks i soaked them in zoecon for extra dha and fatty acids. Be sure not to feed it anythihng too big, i would chop them up into pieces smaller than a dime. If you find that the anemone is not "grabbing" the food, try melting a "marine cuisne" of mysis shrimp, suck it up i a baster or syringe, and gently spray the anemone,- a few should stick, and this is the ifts step to getting you nem back to proper health...2. sufficient light- people will argue with this but the whole "watts per gallon" thing never worked for me. in my experience, PC just dont have the ummph to sustain the zoo algae- which can provide all the nutrition it needs. If your not going to upgrade your lighting system, you will have to supplimental feed often,
bobby

 

[bues0022]

people will argue with this but the whole "watts per gallon" thing never worked for me.

Watts-per-gallon is a completely useless measure of light in a tank. You are absolutely correct with this and no-one who actually knows about the health and care of anemones will argue with you on this statement. Especially with different forms of light (PC, MH, T5, LED), one watt from one doesn't equal one watt from another. The tank makes a big difference too - mostly height. Because of this, an accurate PAR reading is about the only real way to quantify the light being given to an anemone.

 

[billabong08]

How do you guys think this Anemone will do in my 10 gallon with 2 65w powercompacts?
I do plan on feeding it regularly.

 

[garygb]

You have plenty of light, but a 10 gallon is difficult to maintain the good/excellent water quality that an anemone needs. If you can keep your parameters in check, then you will likely succeed, but that species can get close to a foot across. So you should plan on upgrading to a larger tank, at least a 20 gallon, but a 30 would be even better. That species does like a deep sand bed. You can fill a small container like a tupperware bowl or a PVC pipe with sand and place some liverock around it to conceal it, as an alternative to a deep sand bed throughout the tank.

 

[billabong08]

You have plenty of light, but a 10 gallon is difficult to maintain the good/excellent water quality that an anemone needs. If you can keep your parameters in check, then you will likely succeed, but that species can get close to a foot across. So you should plan on upgrading to a larger tank, at least a 20 gallon, but a 30 would be even better. That species does like a deep sand bed. You can fill a small container like a tupperware bowl or a PVC pipe with sand and place some liverock around it to conceal it, as an alternative to a deep sand bed throughout the tank.

Thats what I was thinking too. Ill trade it if it gets too big.

 

[NexDog]

It could be H. Aurora but I doubt it. Might even be H. Crispa but I doubt that too. Most likely it is a standard LTA as that is what they look like in your standard crappy LFS when they are a week or two away from death. You won't be able to tell until it becomes healthy and regains its real shape and colour. My LTA started off exactly like that. Bleached white, bulbous ends to tentacles with purple tips. Had it 4 years, it's split 20 times and the halide section of my sump is full of LTAs. Anenomes are hard to keep without Halides and probably need more light than your 130w PC can provide. This is due to the photosynthetic nature of the hosted zooxanthellae. Not enough light means they can't survive and then the anenome starves. This is also why anenomes can live on light alone.

To futher your chances of success the anenome needs to be really high so it's right under the light. A hosting clownfish will also help as the symbiotic relationship they develop ensures the clownfish tends to the nem and will try and feed it too. But in its current state your anenome will just starve to death.

 

[billabong08]

It could be H. Aurora but I doubt it. Might even be H. Crispa but I doubt that too. Most likely it is a standard LTA as that is what they look like in your standard crappy LFS when they are a week or two away from death. You won't be able to tell until it becomes healthy and regains its real shape and colour. My LTA started off exactly like that. Bleached white, bulbous ends to tentacles with purple tips. Had it 4 years, it's split 20 times and the halide section of my sump is full of LTAs. Anenomes are hard to keep without Halides and probably need more light than your 130w PC can provide. This is due to the photosynthetic nature of the hosted zooxanthellae. Not enough light means they can't survive and then the anenome starves. This is also why anenomes can live on light alone.

To futher your chances of success the anenome needs to be really high so it's right under the light. A hosting clownfish will also help as the symbiotic relationship they develop ensures the clownfish tends to the nem and will try and feed it too. But in its current state your anenome will just starve to death.

Thank you for all you information.
I was planning on upgrading to either T5HO'S or 70W MH soon but not 100% sure yet.
But as for feeding goes my LFS said will do fine just eatting brine shrimp. So I purchased a sheet of about 20 cubes of frozen brine shrimp. Today I thawd a little out with warm water and put it in a syringe. I squirt some on it and it ate it. So Ill do that more often. Hopefully it will pull out lol.

 

[OrionN]

That is clearly an H. aurora. I can see the orange foot in the first picture and the beaded tentacles in the other pictures. Good luck with him. He will need lots of care and feeding. Feed him small pieces of sea food (Chopped up to size of lead in the pencil). If the eat and not regurgitate, you are a long way ahead in getting him well. I would feed every other days until he recover his brown color.
I would not feed him brine shrimp. They hardly have any nutrition. I would feed him human seafood or Mysis shrimp instead of brine shrimp.

 

[elegance coral]

My LTA started off exactly like that. Bleached white, bulbous ends to tentacles with purple tips. Had it 4 years, it's split 20 times and the halide section of my sump is full of LTAs.

Can you post pic's of these clones? LTA/M. doreensis is not known to split.

To futher your chances of success the anenome needs to be really high so it's right under the light. .

If this anemone is an LTA, or aurora, as myself and the others suspect, it should not be placed high in the tank. Both of these species are sand dwelling anemones. They should be placed in the sand.