Tanu
Member
I do see what you mean, although I don't worry too much about bacterial infection at this moment, as it is also being treated with a broad-spectrum antibiotic (Furaltadone, most large importers here use this as well). The reason I went with the temperature increase is because the vet recommended it. If it does not work, I will go back to the lower temperature because I completely agree with your points. I really don't want to be stubborn and appreciate your help, please accept my apologies if it appears to be otherwise.I am merely making the point that a fish that is comfortable is more likely to eat.
Here is the biological explanation as to why you do not want to increase temp on a fish that has not eaten for week and a half after fighting a severe parasitic infection.
A fish that is running out of reserves has more than likely used all fat reserves and now begins to use organ and muscle tissue for metabolic processes. The temperature increase also speeds up its metabolism, making the strain on organs and muscle more diare, all while making it more uncomfortable with temps that put more stress on the fish. Gills are damaged and prone to bacterial infection. Less oxygen is received to key organs due to this damage and now due to the lower O2 concentration in the water assuming agitation remained static. Less oxygen inhibits the fish from functioning and behaving normally. Thus it will continue down the road of no return. What you really need is more time for the animal to feel better, to heal and feel normal, and what the temp increase does is give you less time, more discomfort.
Summarising you state that you think the fish will get to eat if just left 'in peace' in the hospital tank (and with the lower temp you mentioned)?
Bob Fenner suggested to stop the treatment and put the fish back in the display. I wish I would agree with him; the reason I removed the fish from the display to the hospital tank is that it didn't eat anymore. I did (and still do) not really worry about a few spots of Ich, they normally disappear again. The reason I started the treatment is the fact it didn't eat no more and I had the feeling its disease might be (part of) the cause, as it also went to the cleaner goby and -shrimp much more often than it used to. If I would believe the fish would eat again in the display tank I would move him to the display right away...What did Fenner suggest?
Do you have access to live blackworms, when my butterflyfish is ill it's the only thing he'll still eat.
Indeed I got some live blackworms last Friday, as my LFS also suggested this. So far I have tried offering some blackworms multiple times but they are completely ignored... I keep the blackworms in the fridge (you should hear my girlfriend... ) and take a few worms and let them sink in the hospital tank, I assume this should be the way to do this?
About the fish poop: I have never put fish poop or any other poop under the microscope before, but I was surprised by the large crystal-like structures visible in the pictures. The turd (yes, I said that ) was also quite hard and when laying down the cover glass on the slide it felt like there where grains of sand in between. I am not sure how normal these crystals are, but I can imagine they would irritate the fish's intestines... The books I have do not mention these crystals and the few pictures of slides with fish poop do not show them either...