Please Help!!!!!

acexotix

New member
Please forgive me this is going to be a little long but I need help. I am to the point where if I can't figure this out I am ready to give up. I bought a 29 coralife biocube and set it up Jan 1 of this year. I put a 20 lb bag of live sand and a large 15 lb Pukani cured live rock in. I then got a piece of live rock from a local referencing had some zona polyps on it. I added his rock to seed bacteria for the cycle as well as used some water from his tank to start. I immediately removed the bioballs and replaced with a media rack I built from plexiglass and egg crate. In the rack of run filter floss on top, chemipure elite in the middle and replaced the sponge that separates the 2nd and 3rd chamber with a bag of purigen. Chamber 1 has a heater and that's it. I use stock lighting and a wp10 for flow with the wavemaker. That's all I have for equipment.

I have the temp on the heater set to 77. Unfortunately don't have a thermometer or controller. I keep my house at 70. I keep salinity at 1.024. I manually top off. Water is from RO unit that currently does not have a DI and tds reads steady at 5. The DI add-on is set to arrive this week to get that to zero. I have been doing water changes (5 gallon) every 5 days.

Here's my issue. I started by adding two damsels. They were doing awesome. I left them for two weeks with regular testing. Saw the ammonia spike and then waited for it to level. I added two clowns. For a month everything thrived
zoas spread, fish were awesome and active, etc... I started adding frags.

I added a craftsman which quickly died and I attributed it to too early in the tank and I kept moving it dumbly. So I got a duncan and it did pretty well but never really fully opened. I got Rasta zoas 3 heads that were small and would open. I got gsp before the duncan and it never opened. As a note all of these are now in someone else's tank while I try and figure this out.

I got a toadstool leather that would lean over at night. After two days the thing disintegrated. I mean... I came home to nothing but mush on a frag disk. Two days later the corals were looking rough so I moved them to my buddy's tank. Next day... dead clown. Next day... all fish have ich. Next day... dead clown. Next day dead damsel. Last damsel was only thing left and rich was gone (I was treating with rich attack). So I waited a day or two and bought a royal gramma (perhaps unwise). Next day... damsel dead. Next day... gramma dead.

I forgot to mention I have a cuc that consists of 4 astrea snails, peppermint shrimp and two bumblebees snails. As of writing this all snails are fine but haven't seen the shrimp in a few days.

Throughout all of this tests have read fine.

Ammonia never above 0 after the cycle. Same with nitrate.
Phosphate typically right at 0, Maybe .25
I had my buddy test for copper and that showed up 0.
Highest reading I've seen for nitrate since adding chemipure is 10.
I don't have a pH test but he ran it when I took coral over and it was 8.2 if I remember correctly.

As it sits now.... I have dumped a lot of money into a box that holds water a rock and some sand and snails.I have a po'd wife and 5 dead fish and no idea what could possibly be wrong. It's so frustrating because no tests seem off so I have no idea what to fix. At worst I figure the damsels would have lived through these test results.

I don't understand how my snails are still alive while everything seems to die. I don't have a direction and am extremely frustrated and ready to call it quits. I have 25 lbs of dry florida rock coming to increase LR in the tank once it spends some time in there.

Please.... do you have ANY guidance or thoughts?
 
Have you tested alk cal and magnesium? Its quite possible when the toadstool died it nuked your tank. I'm pretty sure they give off toxins when they die.you need a thermometer. Cant trust the dial on the heater but i doubt that's the problem.what type of lighting do you have?
how are you testing salinity 1024 is in the low side
 
Cycle your tank again. I would do a 100% water change when you get your di. I would run your tank at 1.026 via a calibrated refractometer. I also think you're tank was nuked by a leather.
 
Sorry to hear about your losses...Yes, this can be a very frustrating hobby at times and we all are guilty of making mistakes, it looks like you made a few.

Since you have ich in the tank, I would recommend that you replace all your water and let your tank sit fallow for a couple of months to allow all the ick to die. During those two months take a lot of time and research everything you possibly can about the hobby and adjust your aquascape to get them exactly like you want.

What caused your tank to crash? Hard to say because you don't have a record of all your parameters and there are many details left out about your equipment and maintenance schedule.

Remember that NOTHING good happens fast in a reef tank.... time, knowledge and patience will give you the best chance of success..

I'm not judging at all, I've made my share of mistakes as well. One of my favorite resources is the old standard "Natural Reef Aquariums" by John Tullock.... check it out. Yes, It's dated, but has some really good information that is still pertinent today.

Good luck.
 
I'm not using a refractometer and know I need to get one. Using a hydrometer that stays inside. I have records of testing too, can post if need be but just thought I'd post the high marks in first post. Yea... the rich thing is annoying.at this point the tank is empty and I'll prob leave that way until the new rock starts looking "live". I'll also prob cut back on water changes to let bacteria grow since there's no fish to keep alive. I can do a big change with DI this weekend to start that I suppose. One note is all tests are on an API test kit so are subject to my color readings.

I had a 125 a few years ago and never ran into issues like this. I'm thinking it's cuz of the size difference?
 
1.024 is not on the low side

I'm sure many reefs do fine at 1.024 however sea water is 1.026?? and i believe corals do better at that level. hydrometers are notoriously inaccurate so it could be that its even lower or higher who knows. also i would stop use of the purigen and chemipure until you need it and I'm not positive but i don't think you need both.I would follow the advise of dsovetsky and run fallow for a couple of months give the tank a chance to reboot and build bacteria naturally.Of course you will have to give the bacteria something to feed on.when you do reintroduce livestock start slow. And get some better test kits.I'm a big fan of the red sea pro
 
Will the snails introduce enough for the bacteria or should I throw a piece of shrimp or something in to rot
 
Will the snails introduce enough for the bacteria or should I throw a piece of shrimp or something in to rot

I would ask if your friend could hold them for you for a while while you let your tank cycle. You can use shrimp, or non surfactant clear ammonia, or introduce a piece of uncured live rock. There really is no best way, just personal preference.
 
Water changes won't effect bacteria it lives in the rock and sand. I would just ghost feed your tank. And I can't stress enough that you need to get a refractometer and calibration fluid. Read how to start a tank in the newbie forum also.
 
Eh if the snails go it doesn't break my heart. They've made it through ask this. Those things are champions. There's two months worth of bacteria so I'll roll the dice with them. Ill keep feeding the tank for the next couple of months and see what happens. Ty for the advice.
 
Water changes won't effect bacteria it lives in the rock and sand. I would just ghost feed your tank. And I can't stress enough that you need to get a refractometer and calibration fluid. Read how to start a tank in the newbie forum also.

i think the reason for the wc would be to help remove toxins released by the leather.you could also do that with carbon
 
I have to add the suggestion that your temp may have been way out of whack. With no thermometer you have no idea if your tank was running at 70 or 90. If temp was high, that reduces dissolved oxygen. Add to that an ammonia spike caused by die off and it's not a surprise that the fish died.

Get a thermometer and check the calibration of your heater.
 
As for the water change, I've done 10g worth since the leather fiasco. Would i still need 100% or would a large 50 do? I'll keep doing moving to biweekly while is fallow. I agree on the temp thing. What better ways are there to keep temp stable? Don't want or need a chiller. We have good central air which keeps house temp solid in the summer.
 
Make sure the cycle is complete BEFORE you add fish. Better not to use fish to cycle a tank. The ammonia can do permanent organ damage which makes them vulnerable when something goes wrong in the tank.
 
Just get a temp probe or something...You are skipping on things that are basic and things that will cost you much more money then they cost. Go to petco get a thermometer for 5$ I am not sure why you havent done this and see what your temp is at. Also bump your temp up to 78. Go get yourself a refractormeter they cost about 30-50$ on amazon. It is very likely your issue is really simple. You could be running your tank at 1.020 and have no idea. you could have your tank getting to 88* during the day or even not getting up to temp and being to cold. My guess is this, you had low salinity so your toadstool died, then it nuked your tank and killed your fish.

Also if you dont QT fish before they go into your tank then dont even bother leaving it fallow because its just going to be introduced again. The key to not having ich is to QT or keep all your parameters stable and in the right place and feeding your fish well and this will keep them from getting ich. Get those 2 things and then come back and let us know what your results are and then we can narrow down the issue.
 
I immediately removed the bioballs and replaced with a media rack I built from plexiglass and egg crate.

What did you use to build the media rack? Specifically, what did you use to hold it together?

Sorry if this was already asked and answered.
 
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