Plumbing question

From a hydraulic perspective the set up is fine. With the short runs of pipe we use the specific location of the tee is really not that critical, hydraulicly speaking. Having neat and tidy plumbing is important for making best use of the limited space under the stand.
 
Starting to think I should just use regular pvc. This won't work cause it doesn't leave enough room to run pipes to my pump. I'll try it with pvc next and see what you guys think.


 
I'll add that it's best, IME, to have a union threaded directly on the pump. This makes removing and cleaning the pump and impeller much easier. And if it's easier you're more likely to do it (often). Some will argue that it will reduce flow, I argue that a dirty pump will far surpass the decline in flow compared to a union.
 
Looks good. I would use a true union ball valve, but only if it's needed. If not, don't bother. If so, the true union will give you the ability of easily removing the valve for cleaning.
 
I would flip the tee over, put the first return on the branch and the second straight through, and the pump straight through the other side. The less fittings the better. Yes, you will get different flow out of the returns that way, but you probably will get more flow in total, which is more important i think.
 
+1
Having exactly equal flow is rarely necessary, except in our heads. You can accomplish the same thing with 2 90's and one tee instead of 4 90's by doing as Gorgok said.
 
It really doesnt matter. It looks good hard piped, glad you wen that direction. You will be pleased either way.
 
I would flip the tee over, put the first return on the branch and the second straight through, and the pump straight through the other side. The less fittings the better. Yes, you will get different flow out of the returns that way, but you probably will get more flow in total, which is more important i think.





Like this? Only problem would be from the T to second return it's not a straight line so I'd have to use the flexible pvc for that small section.
 
Id put the flex between the pump and the tee, so the pump is less likely to transmit its vibrations all through the plumbing and possibly to the stand (through clamps and whatnot) cutting down some potential noise.


If you can, you could put the flex between the pump and the first 90, putting that 90 at a slight angle facing in towards the sump (so the flex has a smooth arc, instead of an S). If you have a union there, put that rigid and the flex after the union.

You could also raise the pipes up as high as your flex allows, but that is personal preference type stuff, as i think it would look neater is all. No reason to go get longer flex to go higher though, since it won't increase performance the price isn't worth it...

Looking much better already though =D.
 
I see what your saying. Flex from the pump to back wall and brace the long run to wall. I just can't imagine much water going up from the T.
 
You would have to valve the 90 return. I liked it better the way you had it before, but I would have the pipe from the pump up as high as possible to get it out of the way of other equipment in the sump. If you're really trying to maximize flow I would use a wye rather than a tee, but honestly it should be fine the way you had it.
 
Where do I find a wye?

Yeah I'm gonna raise it up when I decide on a final plan. I appreciate all the help!
 
You're welcome. Can you reverse the sump so the return section is on the other side? If so, I would go return pump, union, wye and flex pvc straight to the bulkhead. This would give you the best flow from the return pump. What kind of drain are you running? Regardless you could just 45 the drain from the bulkhead and straight over to the drain section.

I'm just throwing suggestions out there. Clearly you've mocked this up a bunch of times and I don't want to see you waste a bunch of time and effort.
 
I'm doing a herbie so I need the emergency drain (the long pipe you see) to go down to my skimmer compartment. I have a gate valve on order that's why it's not in the pics.
 
There will be more going straight than off the tee, but you'll still have a fair amount of flow up the first return line. If you want to be able to tune it more and control the flow to each pipe you can put a valve in the far return line, but I doubt. It would be necessary.

Like cuzza said, water hitting a tee like you had in your first configuration slams into the back wall of the tee and causes a ton of head loss.

I would try it like you have it now. If you have the unions it will be easy to modify if you're not happy, but I think it will likely be fine.
 
On any drain, including the Herbie, they don't have to be a straight shot down. You'll likely be dialing the siphon back anyways. As far the emergency goes it really doesn't matter where it drains to in the sump. In fact you'll want it above the water line so you can hear the water crashing alerting you that the full siphon has clogged. Again if possible I would flip the sump and have my return a straight shot splitting it with a wye and run the drain over to the side.
 
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