Plumbing question

One brief observation... It appears the full siphon drain is much lower than the water level set by the baffle. You want the drain to terminate no more than one inch below the water level. This will insure a quick start up that purges air bubbles fast.

Also the emergency drain should be above the water level so you can hear water crashing indicating your full siphon has been compromised.
 
Maybe. It would suck if you had micro bubble issues because you removed it and then had to go back and add it.

I removed the cover from my Eheim pump because I was getting cavitation. Although I don't have a fuge and use filter socks, so that may not be a good idea here.
 
I was trying to figure out where my ATO sensor would go. Not sure where the evaporation would be happening. Should've just asked that instead.
 


Can I remove the third baffle on the right or do I need it?

If you remove the 3rd baffle, you may phage problems with stagnant water at the surface of your return section. The water will run down between the baffles, under the second, then into the intake if the return pump without circulating much.

To expand on Cuzza's response, the level in the display is determined by the overflow weir. The level in each section of the sump is set by the height of the baffle to the next section. The only section that doesn't have a weir/baffle to keep it constant is the return section, so that's where the level will vary.
 
Think I was over thinking it. Got half the plumbing glued up tonight. Finishing tomorrow and Wednesday will be the water test!
 
Well all the joints I glued are solid but the 2 return bulkheads have a small drip. So I'll put new tape on and try and screw them tighter.
 
If it's the bulkhead, it should only be a 1/4 turn after hand tight. For threaded joints, 2 turns after hand tight.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Auyhm7YKQEI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Well all the joints I glued are solid but the 2 return bulkheads have a small drip. So I'll put new tape on and try and screw them tighter.
I know there's debate on this, but some say (and I agree) Teflon tape's not good on PVC threads. There's a pipe joint compound (non-hardening) for PVC threads.
 
Not much debate - a non hardening thread sealant designed for PVC pipe is the preferred method and recommended by manufacturers. I've used both, and IME the thread sealant works better and is easier to use.
 
Well took it all apart and reinstalled it using the sealant. Went on easier and tighter than before. Still leaked though. Taking a break from it. Hopefully it'll cooperate tomorrow.
 
Not much debate - a non hardening thread sealant designed for PVC pipe is the preferred method and recommended by manufacturers. I've used both, and IME the thread sealant works better and is easier to use.

Is this the stuff to use?

Oatey 31230 Pipe Joint Compound with PTFE with Brush, 4 fl.Ounce

Description:

Non-hardening gray paste seals and lubricates threaded joints
For use on water, steam or air lines
Non-separating and non-toxic material
Not for use on Plastic threads
Lubricates and seals all threaded joints.
White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste.
Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50° to +400°F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50° to +500°F.
For use with water, steam, caustics or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper

http://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31230-J...dening+joint+compound+thread+sealant+PVC+pipe
 
Back
Top