plumbing

fatmtbiker

fatmtbiker

New member
Let me know if CMAS is the wrong place for this stuff. I think it may belong in DIY or noob section.

Anyway, I started looking at pvc and such today. When I got my 125RR they sold me the 4 bulkheads, 2 1 inchers and 2 3/4's. I think the smaller are for the "in" and the larger for the "out".

1. I would like to put ball valves all over my design so I can control the feed of water. With my mag24 I have been told I will have to slow it down right away anyway.

2. I don't like the look of the ball valves that have the union in them, seems to go down to a very small size. I would also like the break points at different locations so at this point I will pay the extra to have ball valves and unions separate.

3. What type of pvc, I saw 200 and 450/480 psi.

4. Where and what do I buy for the plumbing in the tank, I know I think I can just extend the pc up a bit for the "out" so a bit of water stays in the overflow but what about the "in'. I need to know how to connect that black flex tubing you see in LFS's to regular pvc, also I did not see that at Lowes.
 
1. IF, the pump needs to be restricted, a ball valve after the pump will do that.

2.I'm doing the same thing. All the PVC and fittings in the pump are white. I don't want grey valves. Smaller openings don't help either.

3. I think the 200 is the thin wall... It doesn't really matter. I get the thin wall to get that extra little bit out of my pipes. Thicker pipe will probably keep things quieter.

4.Did you get the kit for the overflow boxes? Either way, you'll need a 3/4" 90 degree elbow with 1/2" female threads on one side.

If you'd like, I can come over and give some plumbing advise. I'm no karenL, but I still get my jobs done. With no leaks. :)
 
The 1" bulkheads are the drains.... Matt suggested to build dursos out of 1.5" and then do a reducing bushing to the 1" bulkhead for the drains.....

the 3/4" bulkheads are for the returns.....

444reefkeeper got some REALLY nice fittings from savko that are all black PVC if you're into how itll look under the tank.... not sure if theyre more expensive but they look really good. :)

I think the true union ball valves are just for saving space... if you don't need to do that, It should be cheaper just to get PVC unions and ball valves....

I'm planning on running alot of spaflex myself to try to cut down on any TEE's and 90's.... Ive seen a few people plumb a line off the main return to put water straight back into the sump so theyre no throttleing back their main pumps.... thats always another option for you...
 
I'm no 444reefkeeper, but I'd tee the return off from mag 24
and have the ball valve there
you could pour off the excess return to the sump and in the future maybe have it go to a fuge or some other equipment

and remember huffing may sound like fun but that cement and primer are not good for you, proper ventilation is recommended:D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11444007#post11444007 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by karenL

and remember huffing may sound like fun but that cement and primer are not good for you, proper ventilation is recommended:D
Click to expand...

Why do you think plumbers are always happy and singing?
I love crawl space work....sometimes I spill a can of primer on purpose....guess that explains a lot. :)
 
I like using a spa manifold for the return to power other equipment and have a pressure relief. Check them out here:
Flex Pvc
Hope this helps.
Carl
 
my husband has that site blocked
claims it's just weird how long I stare at it drooling
he said he blocked it for my own good
and someday I'd thank him
 
:D
karenL prevails as expected. :) She has some good advice. If for some reason you have to turn down the pump, a valved T would be nice for other/future expansion. I would have just added another drain. I always have been more of a do-er than a think-er. Karen has it all.

K-Lo - Are you gonna be able to make it to the Holiday Frag Exchange at my house on Jan. 26th? Please! It can be a learning experience for all! :D
 
Does the skimmer sit inline with the other plumbing or does it just handle what it can inside it chamber of the sump? I would guess on the 2nd as it would have to process the entire flow or it would be the bottleneck.
 
OK, new diagram. This will show how they will be layed out as well. This is all going into my back room that has water heater and such so its long and narrow. The red dots are ball valves. The blue are unions so I can take apart if needed. I think all I need to do now if figure out pvc sizes and to drill. I was thinking of 1 inch holes on the fuge and the sump. Where do you guys buy you drill bits to drill the tanks?

pr-0008.JPG
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11444311#post11444311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 444reefkeeper
:D
karenL prevails as expected. :) She has some good advice. If for some reason you have to turn down the pump, a valved T would be nice for other/future expansion. I would have just added another drain. I always have been more of a do-er than a think-er. Karen has it all.

K-Lo - Are you gonna be able to make it to the Holiday Frag Exchange at my house on Jan. 26th? Please! It can be a learning experience for all! :D
Click to expand...

I have that weekend off!

back to topic
why is this tank not inwall?
 
A few reasons. 1 is I just built stands for all of my tanks. Nice 3/4 inch birch and pine with panel doors. The 2nd is that if I move I don't want to have to change that much to the house.
 
I also don't think I could get all of it in the back. It would have to be one over the other and that would not leave me much room.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11445752#post11445752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fatmtbiker
I saw this on another thread about pumps. Is it true? I was going to put it in my sump.
Click to expand...

Not sure what pump specifically was being mentioned, but for most pumps, that is not true. You can run them in a saltwater sump with no problems. I have Mag Drives, Rios and Cap pumps running in-sump right now.

The skimmer just chills inside the sump.

I would possibly consider larger holes. There are alot of places online that you can order bits from. Or I have(2) 2 1/2" glass bits for sale for $50 each(only need one). It is the size you need for an 1 1/2" bulkhead. I used them once to make sure they work well.

K- :cool:
 
I was hoping to have 1 pipe go from my refug to my skimmer (125 --> 55), would this 1.5 inch bulkhead give me enough flow for that?

The pump I have has some sort of salt water live that started to grow on it, small hard white particles (not salt) so I think it should be ok.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11447054#post11447054 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kmiec123
Sounds like someone needs to pay the fat biker a little visit!!!
:D Good reason as any for a party!
Click to expand...


All are welcome. Just need to tell me your favorite beer and when you get here try to list all the errors you see in my setup so I can fix them before the code goes live.
 
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