poder blue has ich
- Thread starter kmax74
- Start date
Chad Vossen
New member
cleaner shrimp will help, but wont cure. a hospital tank is what you need. for a tang, 20L min for smaller size tangs. larger tangs will do much better in larger hospital tanks. you can treat with either copper, or hyposalinity.
you want to remove ALL fish from the display for 50 days or more. if you treat your tang and add him back without leaving the display fishless for 50 days, it will get sick again. you should treat all your fish and keep them out of the display for 50 days and you should never see the ick again. (remember that ick can be re-introduced through anything. liverock, inverts, fish, plants, anything.)
you want to remove ALL fish from the display for 50 days or more. if you treat your tang and add him back without leaving the display fishless for 50 days, it will get sick again. you should treat all your fish and keep them out of the display for 50 days and you should never see the ick again. (remember that ick can be re-introduced through anything. liverock, inverts, fish, plants, anything.)
Chad Vossen
New member
50 i guess if your in a hurry. the more the better really.
anjhof
Member
I'll share my experiences with ich and my powder blue. A few months after adding him to my tank, he came down with ich. I tried to catch him at first but quickly realized it would be a huge ordeal to take all the rock and coral out of the tank to catch him. Instead, I bought a cleaner shrimp, added a UV sterilizer, and soaked the food in fresh garlic for a couple of weeks.
The tang let the shrimp clean him and the UV took care of the free floating ich. Within a couple of weeks, the ich was totally gone (at least it wasn't on the fish).
I wouldn't bother with removing the fish. Ich can be treated within the tank if you are able to kill it - through the UV sterilizer.
I am sure removing all the fish from the tank for 2 months would work, but not everyone has this option. If you do, then it is your choice.
The tang let the shrimp clean him and the UV took care of the free floating ich. Within a couple of weeks, the ich was totally gone (at least it wasn't on the fish).
I wouldn't bother with removing the fish. Ich can be treated within the tank if you are able to kill it - through the UV sterilizer.
I am sure removing all the fish from the tank for 2 months would work, but not everyone has this option. If you do, then it is your choice.
chaseracing
Premium Member
I don't think it cleared up by itself. Unfortunately it is not that straighforward. I just battled this. Feel free to read the play by plays at www.edsnoble.com.
Most likely your cleaner is doing its duty and keeping the fish clean by the naked eye. Pay attention to the others in your tank and at the very first sign of it return start to follow the things people mentioned above.
Cross your fingers. Hopefully you will be one of the lucky ones.
-=E=-
Most likely your cleaner is doing its duty and keeping the fish clean by the naked eye. Pay attention to the others in your tank and at the very first sign of it return start to follow the things people mentioned above.
Cross your fingers. Hopefully you will be one of the lucky ones.
-=E=-
DamnPepShrimp
Moved On
The ich will mostlikely come back. It is almost always in the tank. I am dealing with ich right now and want it gone for good. The only way to do that is to QT your fish and leave your display fishless. Ich's cycle last 30 days but I would wait a lot longer then that, 60 might be a bit much. Copper may work with ich but hypo is safer.
I was reluctant about doing hypo, but now I have my 55g QT tank with 3 angels in it and the SG is about 1.010. So far it definitely has slowed the ich down. Ich can't really survive at this low SG and some will actually explode. Also the low SG puts less stress on your fish, since there is less salt for them to filter out. Therefore, your fish are stronger to fight of ich and leaving it without a host, thus killing it. Hopefully for good, but ich is a stubborn parasite, the longer the wait, the better.
Always QT every fish before adding to the display, may be a pain in the *** now, but you'll be thankful later. Also, PBT are notorious for getting sick, they need special care and lots of attention. Good luck, keep us updated.
I was reluctant about doing hypo, but now I have my 55g QT tank with 3 angels in it and the SG is about 1.010. So far it definitely has slowed the ich down. Ich can't really survive at this low SG and some will actually explode. Also the low SG puts less stress on your fish, since there is less salt for them to filter out. Therefore, your fish are stronger to fight of ich and leaving it without a host, thus killing it. Hopefully for good, but ich is a stubborn parasite, the longer the wait, the better.
Always QT every fish before adding to the display, may be a pain in the *** now, but you'll be thankful later. Also, PBT are notorious for getting sick, they need special care and lots of attention. Good luck, keep us updated.
cham
New member
My powder blue got ich from the start. There are many schools of thought on ICH and here is the one I personally subscribe to.
You really can't keep ICH out of your tank. You can QT till your blue in the face. There is a good chance it will hitch hike in on rock/coral or other live items that you can't hypo or copper. The guy with a 30 yr old reef has ICH all in his system but hasn't seen it in alot of years (IIRC) until he had a bad temp swing and boom, it shows back up. He fixed the issue and things are back to normal and no sign of it again.
So I started trying to learn how to deal with it.
Keep your temp swings VERY small. 2 degrees max but less is better especially for the PBT
Feed garlic, fresh homemade is best but Kent can work too. Some controversy on if this stuff works or not but we know it works well for humans so its anyones guess.
UV will help although I think it can be done without it. If you have a UV use it. If not I wouldn't sweat it.
Feed heavily with quality food. Frozen formula two, good nori and all quality veggies with some mysid added in will go a long way. I also like to use selcon and zoe as an added bonus. Up for debate on their contribution but good for health IMO, pretty cheap too.
Just trying to get him fat & happy will be the best approach. Yes, the cleaner shrimp will help pick the big ones off but they will not come close to controlling it. They are good helpers though.
Temp swings will nuke a PBT in no time. If you don't have control of that get on it ASAP.
You really can't keep ICH out of your tank. You can QT till your blue in the face. There is a good chance it will hitch hike in on rock/coral or other live items that you can't hypo or copper. The guy with a 30 yr old reef has ICH all in his system but hasn't seen it in alot of years (IIRC) until he had a bad temp swing and boom, it shows back up. He fixed the issue and things are back to normal and no sign of it again.
So I started trying to learn how to deal with it.
Keep your temp swings VERY small. 2 degrees max but less is better especially for the PBT
Feed garlic, fresh homemade is best but Kent can work too. Some controversy on if this stuff works or not but we know it works well for humans so its anyones guess.
UV will help although I think it can be done without it. If you have a UV use it. If not I wouldn't sweat it.
Feed heavily with quality food. Frozen formula two, good nori and all quality veggies with some mysid added in will go a long way. I also like to use selcon and zoe as an added bonus. Up for debate on their contribution but good for health IMO, pretty cheap too.
Just trying to get him fat & happy will be the best approach. Yes, the cleaner shrimp will help pick the big ones off but they will not come close to controlling it. They are good helpers though.
Temp swings will nuke a PBT in no time. If you don't have control of that get on it ASAP.
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