Post your automated tank disaster set up.
- Thread starter Allentown
- Start date
moondoggy4
Team RC
I went to a funeral and not even 12 hours later my wife stated that the 5 gallon ATO bucket was empty, the water was half way up the sump and now overflowing thru the the new external pump it was only hooked up to the union not to the valve so it was open, ie not finished plumbing before I had to go.
The STO sensor was knocked by me before I left allowing it to rotate, due to the fact there was only 1 magnet not two or simply turned up.
I had my wife set the tank at fail safe, shut everything off until I got home I have a single tunze 6000 for cirulation.
I now have my external pump plumbing finished I switched out my sensor. It was a 120 gallon so not a huge deal with the dilution.
The STO sensor was knocked by me before I left allowing it to rotate, due to the fact there was only 1 magnet not two or simply turned up.
I had my wife set the tank at fail safe, shut everything off until I got home I have a single tunze 6000 for cirulation.
I now have my external pump plumbing finished I switched out my sensor. It was a 120 gallon so not a huge deal with the dilution.
Leak Det 1) Behind control panel: Shuts down all power except Gyre and Vortex and network adapter.. Sends Text
Leak det 2) Between tanks. Same as above.
Leak Det 3) Inside cabinent. Shuts down all power that's inside cabinet and activates emergency sunk pump on a 1 min on 5 off oscillation. Sends text. Turns on power heads.
Powerfailure EB8 1, dedicated 20amp #1 1) Turns on main pump 2 and heater 2, lights and jaebos. sends text.
Powwefailure EB8 2, dedicated 20 amp #2 1) Turns on main pump 1 and heater 1, gyre and vortech sends text.
General Powerailure: Vortech MP40 back up battery, sends email when power resumes.
Float switch high in sump, turns on both main pumps.
Float switch in overflow high, turns off both main pumps.
Skimmer float switch high, turns off skimmer.
I can't figure out how to mount a low switch in the ato container to kill the tunze 3155. I can however, use fusion to just turn it off after about 4 days (when it normally runs out).
RODI lines, valve turned off at main when traveling.
Leak det 2) Between tanks. Same as above.
Leak Det 3) Inside cabinent. Shuts down all power that's inside cabinet and activates emergency sunk pump on a 1 min on 5 off oscillation. Sends text. Turns on power heads.
Powerfailure EB8 1, dedicated 20amp #1 1) Turns on main pump 2 and heater 2, lights and jaebos. sends text.
Powwefailure EB8 2, dedicated 20 amp #2 1) Turns on main pump 1 and heater 1, gyre and vortech sends text.
General Powerailure: Vortech MP40 back up battery, sends email when power resumes.
Float switch high in sump, turns on both main pumps.
Float switch in overflow high, turns off both main pumps.
Skimmer float switch high, turns off skimmer.
I can't figure out how to mount a low switch in the ato container to kill the tunze 3155. I can however, use fusion to just turn it off after about 4 days (when it normally runs out).
RODI lines, valve turned off at main when traveling.
Steve Atkins
New member
You can get float switches with a very long shaft and which could be mounted through a container lid and ones that actually float and could be attached to a post mounted through a container lid. Not sure on your ato container dimensions but the second option could be made to work for any depth.
Used two of the extended ones (one for failsafe) in my sump for many years as I found moisture would eventually get into standard ones and the extended ones prevented this by keeping the wire inlet above water level. Since switched to an optical sensor and a time limit set in the controller.
Steve
Bent
I got nothin'
Well I have a couple redundancies...
R/O container:
1: the input water is on a solenoid that is hooked to a timer. The solenoid gets power twice a day for 2 hours that allows the booster pump to turn on and start making water.
2: the float valve in the container is hooked to a pressure switch that turns the unit off when the valve closes and the pressure builds in the line. So if the solenoid fails, the float valve will catch it.
3: I have a float switch at the upper water limit that's wired to the booster pump of the RO. So if the solenoid fails and the float valve fails, the rising water level will hit the switch and then the unit off.
4: I have a output at the top of the container that is routed to the mop sink. So if the solenoid fails, the float valve fails, and the float switch fails the excess water will just empty into the sink.
5: I have a water alarm wired into the piping of the overflow. So if the overflow ever gets wet, the water alarm will text me, and beep really loud.
Heater:
I currently have 4 300w heaters hooked to a surge strip that is hooked to a ranco controller. So 4 heaters have to fail at once for the water to get cold. If one of the heaters gets stuck on. The ranco will detect the rising heat and flip all the heaters off.
ATO:
1: I have a float switch that turns the pump in the RO container on and off.
2: I have a second float switch set a touch higher than the fill switch. So if the fill switch gets stuck on, then the second switch will turn the pump off.
3: the RO water input into the sump comes in via a float valve. There is a "t" on the output of the ATO pump above the highest water level pointing down. So if the water level inside the sump fills to the point that the second switch doesn't work, the mechanical float valve will shut the flow off going to the sump and it will just circulate within the container.
4: the highest acceptable level in the sump is plumbed to a drain in the floor. So if the first switch fails, the second switch fails, and the valve fails, the excess water will just go out the pipe.
5: again, there is a wifi water alarm within the emergency drain. When it gets wet, it screams and blows my phone up.
I have additional wifi water alarms covering the circumference of the sump as well as the display. So if they get wet, my phone gets blown up and an alarm sounds.
R/O container:
1: the input water is on a solenoid that is hooked to a timer. The solenoid gets power twice a day for 2 hours that allows the booster pump to turn on and start making water.
2: the float valve in the container is hooked to a pressure switch that turns the unit off when the valve closes and the pressure builds in the line. So if the solenoid fails, the float valve will catch it.
3: I have a float switch at the upper water limit that's wired to the booster pump of the RO. So if the solenoid fails and the float valve fails, the rising water level will hit the switch and then the unit off.
4: I have a output at the top of the container that is routed to the mop sink. So if the solenoid fails, the float valve fails, and the float switch fails the excess water will just empty into the sink.
5: I have a water alarm wired into the piping of the overflow. So if the overflow ever gets wet, the water alarm will text me, and beep really loud.
Heater:
I currently have 4 300w heaters hooked to a surge strip that is hooked to a ranco controller. So 4 heaters have to fail at once for the water to get cold. If one of the heaters gets stuck on. The ranco will detect the rising heat and flip all the heaters off.
ATO:
1: I have a float switch that turns the pump in the RO container on and off.
2: I have a second float switch set a touch higher than the fill switch. So if the fill switch gets stuck on, then the second switch will turn the pump off.
3: the RO water input into the sump comes in via a float valve. There is a "t" on the output of the ATO pump above the highest water level pointing down. So if the water level inside the sump fills to the point that the second switch doesn't work, the mechanical float valve will shut the flow off going to the sump and it will just circulate within the container.
4: the highest acceptable level in the sump is plumbed to a drain in the floor. So if the first switch fails, the second switch fails, and the valve fails, the excess water will just go out the pipe.
5: again, there is a wifi water alarm within the emergency drain. When it gets wet, it screams and blows my phone up.
I have additional wifi water alarms covering the circumference of the sump as well as the display. So if they get wet, my phone gets blown up and an alarm sounds.
This is why none of my wave makers are programmed by the apex. They can however be shut off if the apex cuts all power to all power strips (only happens if a leak is detected). Even if the apex kills the power to everything due to a water leak, the vortex would run for 36 hours give or take.
During that time the network would stay up and hopefully. .I'd get notified.
Just to be safe, I've taken to checking on fusion twice a day.....that's the single greatest benifit of fusion and something I was never able to get to work very well prior to fusion. If the system we're to go offline..I may not know WHAT'S wrong...but I'd know it was off line within 12 hours.
Just added a webcam also. The Web cam is on a completely different circuit and router so if the apex issue was network only, I'd be able to tell by looking at the feed.
Of course if the Internet was down...I might be fooled into thinking the power was off
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Reeftronics would send an email if it can't poll your system for a short amount of time. I think it's an hour or so.
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