Pricing a Wavebox

fletchman

Premium Member
I was pricing a Wave box for my 400 Gallon tank..and was told I was going to need a expansion module.. is there a reason this is needed... and do I have to start with it...and what is it.. is it a another full box.. no one knows when I ask what it is or how much space it will take up.. I am trying to plan on using a wavebox.. and have no idea what it will look like or what space it will take up... does anyone have a picture of a wavebox and expansion module.... and once again can i start without it ...what will the issues be adding it later....will it do any good without the expansion.. the reason i ask is that is close to doubles the price of the wavebox.... and that I didnt budget for...

Thanks,
Ryan:confused:
 
From my discussions with Roger, the expansion is for larger tanks. I have an 8' long 330 gallon tank and the standard wavebox is only going to produce a wave about 1/4 to 1/2" high (best Roger estimates). He said my tank is marginal for needing the extension so I'm going to try without it first. I would suspect with your larger system, it is almost a must.

Here's another description I found. Does sound like a complete second box that hooks into the first controller.

For larger aquariums an additional Wavebox extension ( part number 6212.50 without a controller ) can be connected to the same controller .Inside the controller has 3 jumpers ,one - so the units can work at opposite ends of the aquarium and work alternately ,one so the 2 Waveboxes can work at the same end and work together and the third so the units can work with a Multicontroller.
 
So at this point I have a muliticontroller and 2 6100s in my tank already... this and 2 wave boxes can work together from what I have seen to create title modes... is that correct...

Ryan
 
You need one wavebox 6212, this is a complete unit with it's own controller that is required. The controller can run two waveboxes or as many as four with the branch adapter. The 6212.50 extension is a wavebox without the controller. Each wavebox is rated at 317 gallon capacity. You can start with one, the wave may be very small and you will need to add the extension to get a real effect.
 
I appreciate help with this... will it be a problem to run these with the 6100's and if not... is there anything I should not do with them... I am sure all the extra movement could cause problems if the 6100's are placed wrong.. and I also was wondering if I will need to adjust my water hight in order to run the wavebox and the extension.. or does it not cause any issues with water height..

thanks,
Ryan
 
The wavebox has a provision to adjust the height of the wave, in general you are looking at 1/2- 3/4" high waves. On a 75 or 120 it is about 3/4" on a 180 about 1/2" the biggest I have tried was a 240 and also about 1/2". It doesn't seem to cause problems with overflow boxes other than noise from splashing but a durso pipe seems to solve that problem. I also wouldn't be running so much flow that my overflows are maxed out in capacity and can't handle a surge. The only other caution is that it does put extra strain on the glass and seams. I don't want to frighten anybody as i doubt this is a real issue unless you put it on a 20 year old O'Hell you found in a vacant lot or you have a stand that isn't quite up to par.

The pumps are not an issue, the flow the wavebox creates is just like at the beach, when you stir up some sand the waves wash it back and forth. That is what the wavebox does, detritus lifts and just rocks back and forth. The ideal is to let the wavebox work for a few hours with the stream pump on the side they are on work and then stop the wavebox and let the stream on the other side work by itself. The reason is when a stream is directed opposite the wavebox it mutes the wave effect slightly. It isn't a big deal though to leave the wavebox on continuosly, it does include a photocell to cut it off at night.
 
The problem I am trying to overcome is my water height.. I only have a little less than 1/2 inch before water is over the side of my tank..and my overflow boxes are made of glass with no notches... not sure how I would adjust my water height in the tank.. the only thing that I can think is to add a glass catch on the sides of the tank....or a piece of glass siliconed to the side of the tank braced to the wall..this should hold it in place with no issues from the splash..any ideas if the wave can be adjusted a bit smaller.. just curious.. I actually just preordered the wavebox and the add on box... any quality product that I can get questions awnsered that quickly on is a product worth owning.. I appreciate the attention.. the 2 main sides have eurobracing they are not gonna be an issue
 
Yes, you can adjust height of the wave. Here is a problem I see. It has to be mounted on the sides, with Eurobracing this means two magnet holders per unit unless the braces don't extend the full length. You need two because their is a lot of force on the wavebox when it is working and it will move otherwise. The other problem I see is the wavebox has to stick out of the water at least 1/2" and if their is only a 1/2" between the brace and the top of the wavebox it may not be able to breathe, on a surge it needs to take in air and so it has to be clear of the highest point of the wave by 1/2". I would think you can get the overflows notched or notch it yourself. I know it won't be easy but it may be necessary.
 
well there is no eurobracing on the ends of the tank..it is just a 3/4 inch glass... the eurobracing is on the 2 long sides or viewing sides... so I believe the boxes should fit with no problem.. it is just the height of the water in the tank... only 1/2 inch on the low side.. I was thinking of siliconing a higher piece of glass to the ends of the tank and then hanging the boxes on them.. and to strengthen the higher glass to the walls that are only about 5 inches from the tank itself.. I know this is not the best solution.. but I am not sure how well I could notch the glass..or even how I would... i am thinking the potential to crack the overflow would be huge... A diamond bit dremel would be the best for the job.. I am guessing.. but time consuming..and I am wondering if it will really lower the height of the water enough.. do you think that the addition of a higher 3/4 inch piece of glass would do the job on the sides or is this a pipe dream

Ryan
 
I think siliconing a piece in could work but it ould not be very pleasing to look at. I would see if a glass shop could help. I used to do stained glass work and we had tools that you used to grind down glass to get exact fits. The have cheapy ones that are just a bit that goes on a drill, I haven't used that one but the bench top model can take down 1/8" glass about 1/4" a minute. I would think you could sand down the glass easily and without much worry, you need to keep it wet when you work (cooling the glass while you cut) and be careful about the electricity near water.
 
well the ends will be hidden behind walls.. but I do like the idea of grinding down the glass... that would be the ideal.. I was just worried about cracking the overflows.. I would be in bad shape if that happened

thanks,
Ryan
 
are the grinding pads made of anything harmful to the tank inhabitants... IE Copper or anything else..and do you have any ideas on where I can find the grinders

Ryan
 
The grinder is diamond dust on a moly chrome steel drum. It can be found at a stained glass shop for sure. We have a half dozen of them in this town so I think if you look you can certainly find one.
 
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