problem with my return line
- Thread starter Poor Boy
- Start date
Hitch08
New member
Not sure if this will sound dumb, but you need to either break the siphon (back down to the sump) sooner/earlier or get a bigger sump. How large is your sump? Is it a prebuilt tank? How many inches below the top of the sump is the water when the tank is operating?
I would guess that the easiest path forward would be to figure out a way to break the siphon after the pump turns off. Check to make sure that the return(s) into the tank are not too low below the water line. If moving it/them up doesn't solve the problem, you can put a small hole in the tube that returns water into the tank. Make sure that you put it somewhere that, obviously, doesn't spray water out of the tank. You should be able to put the hole on the under side of the return tube, so that any water just sprays into the tank.
You should be able to find some threads in here, with pictures, about breaking a siphon.
Also, do a google search for "siphon break fish tank." You will see some picture for examples.
If you have a different kind of return, maybe you can post some pictures.
I would guess that the easiest path forward would be to figure out a way to break the siphon after the pump turns off. Check to make sure that the return(s) into the tank are not too low below the water line. If moving it/them up doesn't solve the problem, you can put a small hole in the tube that returns water into the tank. Make sure that you put it somewhere that, obviously, doesn't spray water out of the tank. You should be able to put the hole on the under side of the return tube, so that any water just sprays into the tank.
You should be able to find some threads in here, with pictures, about breaking a siphon.
Also, do a google search for "siphon break fish tank." You will see some picture for examples.
If you have a different kind of return, maybe you can post some pictures.
Last edited:
MidwesternTexan
Average Joe
The return line, or the drain line?
Hitch stated it correctly.
Why would you have a system that would do this?
A power out/off is inevitable. The system must/should be able to handle any power out.
Maybe some pictures so we can help
Hitch stated it correctly.
Why would you have a system that would do this?
A power out/off is inevitable. The system must/should be able to handle any power out.
Maybe some pictures so we can help
... here is a picture that will help you understand the siphon story.
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/images/stories/DSP/standpipe.jpg
hope it helps,
MaLi
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/images/stories/DSP/standpipe.jpg
hope it helps,
MaLi
Is your return line adjustable loc-line? If so, make sure you bend it around so it's near the surface while running, even better if you have enough length to make an bend above the waterline and back down in, but still ending just below the surface. This will break the siphon sooner.
If you already have that set correctly, the next thing to look at is your running sump level. Usually, in most of the sump, the level is set by the height of the baffles, and in the final chamber (housing the return pump) level will fall with evaporation and rise when topping off. If you're running an ATO, that level is determined by the height of your ATO sensor, and if not, you basically select that level when you manually top off. By lowering that level some, you increase the "empty" space in your sump, which is then available to contain the water that drains down from the main display when the power goes out. How is yours set?
Next, as others have mentioned, you can drill a small hole (siphon break) in your return line to lesson the amount of water drained. If possible, make a bend in your return line to bring a portion of it as high as possible, even halfway above the water line. Then, mark that spot and drill a small hole on the bottom of the return line where it's as its highest point. As soon as the water drains enough to uncover that hole, it will suck air and break the siphon.
Also, let's see some pics!
If you already have that set correctly, the next thing to look at is your running sump level. Usually, in most of the sump, the level is set by the height of the baffles, and in the final chamber (housing the return pump) level will fall with evaporation and rise when topping off. If you're running an ATO, that level is determined by the height of your ATO sensor, and if not, you basically select that level when you manually top off. By lowering that level some, you increase the "empty" space in your sump, which is then available to contain the water that drains down from the main display when the power goes out. How is yours set?
Next, as others have mentioned, you can drill a small hole (siphon break) in your return line to lesson the amount of water drained. If possible, make a bend in your return line to bring a portion of it as high as possible, even halfway above the water line. Then, mark that spot and drill a small hole on the bottom of the return line where it's as its highest point. As soon as the water drains enough to uncover that hole, it will suck air and break the siphon.
Also, let's see some pics!
kmbyrnes
New member
You need to be able to turn the pumps off without causing a flood.
Looking at your picture closely, it appears you have dual Loc-Line returns. The one on the other end of the tank from the drain looks like it is well below the level of the teeth of your overflow. The closer one is obscured by the powerhead, so it is hard to tell how far below the water surface it ends. Hitch08 is correct in saying you need a siphon break. Until those returns ( both of them ) suck air, the tank will continue to drain once the pumps go off.
Raise the level of the returns so they are about at the same level as the overflow teeth and do some reading on siphon breaks.
Looking at your picture closely, it appears you have dual Loc-Line returns. The one on the other end of the tank from the drain looks like it is well below the level of the teeth of your overflow. The closer one is obscured by the powerhead, so it is hard to tell how far below the water surface it ends. Hitch08 is correct in saying you need a siphon break. Until those returns ( both of them ) suck air, the tank will continue to drain once the pumps go off.
Raise the level of the returns so they are about at the same level as the overflow teeth and do some reading on siphon breaks.
fity2pounder
New member
Thought of using a one way valve? Home Depot sells them
jimmyj7090
aka John K
Check valves pretty much ALWAYS fail in saltwater. Not when you install them, or when you test them. Only when you are not home and it really matters.
The reason that check valves are unreliable in saltwater is that in a marine environment you always have bio film and other life forms growing on everything so that the mating / sealing surfaces on check valves inevitably become fouled resulting in slow (or not so slow) leaking.
As was already said, you just need to raise that return line in the tank so that it's closer to the surface. That way as the water level starts to go down when the power is cut, the siphon will naturally break. A lot of people will opt to drill a small hole in the return line near the surface causing a similar siphon break, but with this approach you have to be really good about keeping that little hole clean or Murphy's law will come find you.
