Project External Glass Overflow

Top down shot with the light swung outward.

348de425.jpg
 
Tunjee,
I'm not sure if you mentioned it already and couldn't find the answer in past threads - what did you use on the back wall of your tank? If that paint or a sheet of plastic?
- Chad
 
Sheet of plastic black acrylic 1/8" thick siliconed to the inside back wall. It's the only way to hide the outer workings when looking into the tank.
 
Very nice idea. Another option instead of going floor drilled holes and a durso/stockman with a internal overflow box, very clean.

A few questions:
1. How do you determine teeth height and length?
2. How do you determine the size of the box needed for GPH?
3. I guess I missed it, why two overflow drain holes versus one bigger one?
Thanks
 
tungee is that a pro won titanium heater i see !!

That is my favorite heater i sell them here in my shop and that is all i use the very best !!

JOHN
 
Purple Haze
1. Depends how far from the top you want your water level to be.
2. Just dont make it too small. Look at hang on overflow boxes to get an idea.
3. I had to figure out a way to get rid of the gurgling and burping noise of the drain lines in the sump. One of the drains has a gate valve on it. This creates a solid flow in that line. The other drain trikcles over. If the gated valve completely clogs up what happens is the second drain which is a little higher than the first can handle the flow. HTH
 
SOMEthinsFISHY said:
tungee is that a pro won titanium heater i see !!

That is my favorite heater i sell them here in my shop and that is all i use the very best !!

JOHN
Click to expand...
Sure is. I wanted a grounding probe, temperature display and a heater. So I bought the Won Brothers Pro Heat II 350w which does it all. Once you get the temperature dialed in your good to go.
 
I know the Pro Heat II's element is grounded ( I confirmed it with a volt meter) but the regular pro heat I's, some are not. There was a thread on it a few months back.
 
Thanks I guess. I'm not sure, are they beneficial? I read somewhere they can kill seahorses. That's all I know about them.
 
I have tons of spaghetti worms in my 10... About one per square inch of sandbed and atleast one on every rock. IMO they are very beneficial when you have lots of poop in the tank for them to eat, and a sandbed to stir around. My 10 is skimmerless so there is lots of poop for sure, thus lots of spaghetti worms. OTOH, if your goal is to skim out as much as possible then your preponderance of poop-eaters would seem to indicate an availability of poop and might not be a good thing from that angle. On my (still in progress) 20L, I'm going BB and will make a huge effort to remove the poop ASAP rather than leaving it in there to support the poop-eaters (how many times have I said "poop" in this post?). I've never heard of them hurting seahorses, but then again I've never kept seahorses. Are you keeping seahorses? I'd say the worms stand a much better chance of becoming prey than being a predator.

HTH
 
Nah not keepin any seahorses. These worms are realy evident at night when I turn off the pump for a late night feed. They can stretch 4-6"s trying to get to the food.
 
Oh OK. Heavy feeding without current could also explain why you have so many. Have you thought of just turning off the circulation pump and leaving the other pumps on so that the food doesn't settle to where the spaghetti worms can eat it? I'm kind of reevaluating my reefing methods and I've decided I'm no longer going to cater to the "critters" and I'll let them adjust their numbers based on what little leftover nutrients are available after the corals have had theirs.
 
Are you running all of that equipment off of a 20amp breaker?

I just how much drilling this overflow would weaken the back of the tank used in conjunction with a hood sitting on the to of the tank...??

Any thoughts?
 
Ya it's off a 20amp breaker no problem. It's not even a dedicated circuit at least not yet it soon will be when I put it on it's own. I dont think a hood would add any stress to the back glass. It's pressure will be a downward force not an outward force so it should be fine.
 
I agree with Tunjee. I don't think drilling my overflow weakened the tank at all. However, I also took the plastic trim off the top of my tank and I am worried a bit about that. There are europea-style tanks without trim but I'm sure they have some sort of bracing or thicker glass. If you leave the trim on, a hood wont be a problem... if you take the trim off just try and butt the tank up against the wall so the glass doesn't bow outward.
 
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