Project External Glass Overflow

I think the plastic trim serves little if any structural support. Check out bluereef's frameless setup. There is some bracing however. 1meter long 5cm wide lip front and back.

05.02.04.cijeli.jpg
 
that's an awesome looking setup. There is no way that the plastic trim would offer much of a support, especially on the smaller tanks. After having pulled mine of, by accident, it was extremely flimsy. I always thought it was there merely for looks.
 
I just drilled two ten gallon tanks and it went very easy.no sharp edges when i was done either and no slivers.I bought the bit set #7150 at wal-mart for $7 (you get both bits).I plugged my dremel into a GFCI outlet for extra safety while I drilled I used a garden hose in one hand and kept the water running.I hung my dremel up and used the flex wand attachment to keep it out of the running water and to make drilling easier.I only used the tapered bit.dont forget the safety goggles.

My father-in-law has a dump truck buisiness(sometimes the windshield gets cracked from rocks) and he told me if you crack glass you can drill a hole at the other end of the crack and the crack will stop there.to seal the crack and hole use silicone glue.someone here mentioned they had a bowfront they cracked.that little tank can still easily be used.just seal it with silicone glue .
 
Tunjee said:
Mattydub:

If you mean slots, the slots on mine are 1/2" apart on center and each slot is 1/4" wide, 1" tall. I cut a total of 18 slots. It spans 9" across the back of the tank. I read somewhere that 6" worth of these slots can handle 600 gph. And I think those slots were spaced further apart than mine. I have not tested this yet but that is what my research came up with.

Tunjee
I am planning to do something similar with a 10gal acrylic tank. If this is right one inch of slots handles 100gph. In your opinion what amount of flow should I have for my 10 gal?
 
Progress report

Progress report

I'm no longer able to attach picture files to my posts so I uploaded a couple photos to my gallery. The first is of the live rock in my display tank while I wait for the acrylic to come for my fuge.
The second is of the custom retro lights Justin just built for me at diyreef.com. Mine was the only 24inch kit he had so the picture he uses on his website is of my lights.
So for no concerns about the structural integrity of the tank, and there is a lot of rock leaning against the walls.
- Chad
 
Tunjee,

How did you silicone your black acrylic panel to the back of the tank? Did you spread silicone all over the back of the acrylic and press it down onto the back tank wall, or something else? I'm going to be putting one on my tank soon.

Thanks.
 
Just did my 20gal. Keeping the teeth clean and straight was pretty challenging. This was my first time trying something like this, the next time will be nicer ;) After the black plexi goes on and the tank is full it shouldn't be a big deal.

l8r
 
Good deal Purple... Post some pics when it's done. I'm going to silicone a solid black sheet to the back of the aquarium and then cut out the teeth and holes for bulkheads in the acrylic after it has cured. I have two rectangular sections cut out of the back of the tank for the overflows and 3 bulkhead holes as well. By siliconing first and then cutting I won't have to worry about cutting holes/teeth and then hoping they line up with the holes that I have already cut in the glass. That's the easiest way I could think of.
 
But acrylic doesn't silicone to glass as well as glass to glass. If you have an acrylic tank then it would make sense. Glass isn't that much harder to work with if you get the pieces you need cut to size. Dremmeling holes in glass after the first few becomes easy.

JMO
 
mai:
I'd would not go any less than 10 slots. Depends on your target GPH however.

flaunt:
I ran a bead of silicone around the inside backwall about 1/4" from the edge all the way around. It's actually dry between the acrylic and glass.

stapler:
The silicone would eventualy peal away from the acrylic and the box would fall off the tank.

ninjafish:
What kind of acrylic for your fuge? Acrylite GP?
 
Tunjee said:

flaunt:
I ran a bead of silicone around the inside backwall about 1/4" from the edge all the way around. It's actually dry between the acrylic and glass.

Thanks, Tunjee. Sounds like it will work. I'll do that as well as put additional beads around the holes I cut out for the overflows and the bulkheads to make sure they stay sealed.

Do you have any suggestions on how to make perfect straight cuts on acrylic sheets? I don't have any special tools, but I do have a metal straight edge and a utility knife that may do the trick. The way I've heard to do it is to use the straight edge and knife to score the sheet (I guess score it several times?), then break the piece off. If you have any other/better suggestions please let me know... I just got this sheet of black acrylic and I'm going to have to cut it to size. I don't want to screw it up! It should look really slick once I get it done.
 
Tunjee,

I couldn't tell you what kind it is. For whatever reason acrylic is not very common up here and you can't even find it at the local Home Depot. I had to go through my LFS who has a special supplier. I got one black sheet for the back wall of my main and 4 clear ones (cheaper) to use as baffles in the 'fuge. I've been told that they have been cut but I haven't got them yet. I'll ask when I pick them up.
 
i entered "drilling glass" into the search function and after reading all 13 pages of this thread the diy wheels are spinning in my head again, thanks Tunjee and all for the great info
 
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