Yes, there are two 2" holes in the bottom of the tank as well. Originally I had intended to run a 1" inlet and 1" outlet with an adaptive stockman/durso overflow standpipe. It didn't workout though because the standpipe could not compete with the influx of water from my 70rlt. That's why I chose the back overflow. I don't know what I'll do now with the holes in the bottom... maybe I'll add an oscillating output like the oceanmotions or something.
Project External Glass Overflow
- Thread starter Tunjee
- Start date
I'm planning on an external overflow like the ones that have been done in this thread. My only question is I have a 46G Perfecto Euro (Rounded Front Glass) Tank. There's a center brace on the top and bottom.
Where would you cut the hole for the arylic teeth to go into. On the back? Or on the sides. The back is 36", and the sides are 12".
Also whats the rule of thumb for the gph? Meaning how big does the hole have to be for say 450GPH?
Where would you cut the hole for the arylic teeth to go into. On the back? Or on the sides. The back is 36", and the sides are 12".
Also whats the rule of thumb for the gph? Meaning how big does the hole have to be for say 450GPH?
doody:
The slot on my tank is 12" wide, the comb 14.5" wide, the teeth are 1/4" with 1/4" spacing, there are 23 teeth I believe. Originally I had planned to do 3/8" teeth with 3/8" spacing but decided the slots would be too large.
That should give you a sense of scale compared to the picture.
I'm running maybe 500 - 600gph through this into two 1" bulkheads, the overflow should handle it no problem. The limiting factor would be the plumbing, not the teeth I imagine.
Tunjee:
On the conduit you used to mount your hood, was it difficult to bend? What size conduit did you use?
The slot on my tank is 12" wide, the comb 14.5" wide, the teeth are 1/4" with 1/4" spacing, there are 23 teeth I believe. Originally I had planned to do 3/8" teeth with 3/8" spacing but decided the slots would be too large.
That should give you a sense of scale compared to the picture.
I'm running maybe 500 - 600gph through this into two 1" bulkheads, the overflow should handle it no problem. The limiting factor would be the plumbing, not the teeth I imagine.
Tunjee:
On the conduit you used to mount your hood, was it difficult to bend? What size conduit did you use?
Bishop: Looked like 3/4 inch emt to me, if thats what he used those bends are easy. You'll just need a emt bender, if you know an electrician he'll have one. Or there about $55-$60 for a 3/4 one at lowes, in the electrical tools section.
I'm using emt to support my hood, pretty much the same way tunject did except a support on each side.
I'm using emt to support my hood, pretty much the same way tunject did except a support on each side.
indianafishkeeper
New member
I went 12.5" on my 29gal tank. The cut is right in the center of the back glass. When filled there is a slight bit of bowing. This is without the overflow being siliconed to the glass. I suppose that if you went another inch and something on each side you would be alright.
Also when you silicone your overflow to the glass, it should act as a brace, and help with the stress on the glass.
Also when you silicone your overflow to the glass, it should act as a brace, and help with the stress on the glass.
gabe21804:
Do you think I can rent one of those? I don't really need to buy one and then find a place to keep it at this time in my life.
sde219:
I drilled the tank myself...
I found a glass place that sells 2" diamond hole saws for ~$40 and I bought one a few years ago...
It's a long process.. almost impossible to accomplish without a drill press since they have no center guide.
Something I learned, use a wooden board clamped to the opposite side your hole saw enters... during the last few mm of drilling, the glass will break out and chip without something on the other side to keep the stress's on the glass balanced... check your depth often and go slower and easier at the end so as to miminize chipping.
I think it took me a little under a half an hour to do both holes.
I don't remember where I got the hole saw, but I bet it's in the DIY Supplier thread that's at the top of the forum.
Tunjee:
Hope we didn't "hijack" your thread...
Wagerja:
Nice job supporting the overflow. I did that as well.
Do you think I can rent one of those? I don't really need to buy one and then find a place to keep it at this time in my life.
sde219:
I drilled the tank myself...
I found a glass place that sells 2" diamond hole saws for ~$40 and I bought one a few years ago...
It's a long process.. almost impossible to accomplish without a drill press since they have no center guide.
Something I learned, use a wooden board clamped to the opposite side your hole saw enters... during the last few mm of drilling, the glass will break out and chip without something on the other side to keep the stress's on the glass balanced... check your depth often and go slower and easier at the end so as to miminize chipping.
I think it took me a little under a half an hour to do both holes.
I don't remember where I got the hole saw, but I bet it's in the DIY Supplier thread that's at the top of the forum.
Tunjee:
Hope we didn't "hijack" your thread...
Wagerja:
Nice job supporting the overflow. I did that as well.
Bishop: Not sure try your locally owned electrical supplier he may rent you one. Or you could buy one from lowes, and bring it back the same day LOL, if you were in the area I'd let you borrow mine.
Also bending EMT especially 3/4 and 1" is an art, make sure you buy atleast a couple extra 10' lenghts to work on. I know out here 10' of 3/4 EMT is about $2.50....
Also if you need any tips on bending it let me know.
Also bending EMT especially 3/4 and 1" is an art, make sure you buy atleast a couple extra 10' lenghts to work on. I know out here 10' of 3/4 EMT is about $2.50....
Also if you need any tips on bending it let me know.
Tunjee
New member
Bishop:
3/4" emt is what I used. It's a 90 degree bend with a 3" kick 1" below the start of the 90. Just use the bender on the conduit right there in the store if your doing a simple 90. Most benders come with a book that instruct you on how to bend. Or you could call an electrician, if you took the conduit to them I bet they'd do if for free.
I dont mind the hijacking, this thread has turned into a great place to share glass external overflows. You'll see quite a few different ones throughout the thread.
WAGERJA:
Excellent job. How did you cut your glass? Tile bit? I never thought about supporting the overflow box like that. Great idea.
3/4" emt is what I used. It's a 90 degree bend with a 3" kick 1" below the start of the 90. Just use the bender on the conduit right there in the store if your doing a simple 90. Most benders come with a book that instruct you on how to bend. Or you could call an electrician, if you took the conduit to them I bet they'd do if for free.
I dont mind the hijacking, this thread has turned into a great place to share glass external overflows. You'll see quite a few different ones throughout the thread.
WAGERJA:
Excellent job. How did you cut your glass? Tile bit? I never thought about supporting the overflow box like that. Great idea.
WAGERJA
New member
Tunjee:
Thanks, I used dremel bit 7034? The bullet shaped one and a ton of water. the glass on the end of the 120 is 3/8" thick and the larger dia. of the 7034 ate through the thicker glass smoother, if that makes sence.
thanks for starting this great thread and giving me an idea that has greatly improved the look of my tank.
no hijacking was intended, just figured that everybody likes visual aids. :bum: :strooper:
J
Thanks, I used dremel bit 7034? The bullet shaped one and a ton of water. the glass on the end of the 120 is 3/8" thick and the larger dia. of the 7034 ate through the thicker glass smoother, if that makes sence.
thanks for starting this great thread and giving me an idea that has greatly improved the look of my tank.
no hijacking was intended, just figured that everybody likes visual aids. :bum: :strooper:
J
<b>Tunjee:</b> It looks like it's been a year since you started this project, and I was wondering if you've had any problems at all from it. I'm debating on whether or not I'm going to do this to my tank. It seems like everyone I talk to tells me that this is not a good option, and if I can't put an internal overflow I should just buy a siphon overflow. The idea of a siphon overflow does not sit well with me. I like your design and I was wondering if you can provide some insight into your design. I've read the whole thread, I guess the thing that scares most people is that there is a box attached to the back of the tank that is just held on by silicone, I know silicone is a strong bond, but what do you think the odds of that box coming off are?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Tunjee
New member
When my tank was empty I picked it up by the external overflow box. Silicone and glass when correctly glued together connect on a molecular level. Silicone is a silicate and glass is a silicate. The glass is cleaned with alcohol and a razor blade before running a bead of silicone. The only thing that scares me is the back glass cracking. I have acrylic siliconed inside the back panel to ease my mind and to add a background. HTH
