Project External Glass Overflow

I just recently had some 'chips' like you were talking about when cutting a hole for a bulkhead in my 10g. Can't be too careful there, since it held water fine for a little while and then it cracked all the way across the back. Luckily my wife was there, and as I held the back panel in place she siphoned some water off. Didn't spill but about a gallon.
 
My wife ran up to True Value today to pick up some glass for a picture frame, so while there I had her get me the glass for my external overflow. She asked for 3/16 glass, but it's actually 1/8. Do you think that's efficient for overflow?
 
APorter said:
My wife ran up to True Value today to pick up some glass for a picture frame, so while there I had her get me the glass for my external overflow. She asked for 3/16 glass, but it's actually 1/8. Do you think that's efficient for overflow?

10 gallon tanks are made of 1/8 in glass, so I would say that would
be fine.
 
Be careful with 1/8 around the bulkheads. I used 1/8 and cracked it with just a small amount of movement from the plumbing. I used 1/4 on the bottom, the rest 1/8 and have had no problems.
 
HI guys
this is a great thread
thanks to those who started it and those ones that have given their imput....
I'm thinking to drill a piece of glass of 3/8 thickness using the rotozip

I have a question for the people who already have the overflow box....

Being in the middle Glass pane... doesnt it give you more skimming than the side one????
the film collected at the top has to travel all the way to the other side of the tank ......Where the middle one will collect water from both sides....having a better skimming surface...(IMO)

I'm planning to use 1/4 " glass for the box ...is this OK? ot should I go with 3/8??

thanks for the input..
 
On my yet-to-be setup 180, I prematurely drilled a coupla 1-3/4" holes in the high back wall ( for 1" bulkheads) for an overflow setup that I later decided would be too restrictive, flow-wise.

After seeing this thread, I decided two 1-3/4 holes would be fine, though, which was great since that's what I had already drilled!

I have created two weirs about 5" tall, 1" front-to-back, and 24" long out of 3/8" thick glass. These will be siliconed in soon (yeah right. This whole project has taken about a year too long. More time for ponderin'!)

On the outside of the tank I have two boxes similiar to what ya'll have here, each with two 1" bulheads on bottom, for a total of 4 x 1" bulkheads. Beats just two!!

So each long skinny weir feeds a 1-3/4" hole in the tank, which in turn drains into a box on back with two 1" bulkheads. although I have created the weirs and boxes, I have yet to attach them to the tank.


Point of post (finally):

I too had fear of torquing out the bottom of my boxes with bumps to the plumbing, etc, despite my thicker-than-usual glass. So I cut a similiar sized piece of 3/8" acrylic, cut a 1-3/4" hole for the bulkhead, and siliconed it to the bottom of each box. Nice thick layer of silicone, too. I also tightened the bulkead in place during curing, so that the planes of the acrylic and glass would remain parallel.

I guess this would work just as well (better?) with an extra pane of thick glass sandwiched to the botom of the box.
 
The size glass depends on the size of the overflow.. Your tank has 3/8 glass cause of its size.. If your overflow was going to hold as much water as teh tank then you would need 3/8 glass.... 1/4 glass should be plenty for anyoverflow up to the size of a 29gallon tank....most oveflows only a couple gallons.. not much stress at all on the glass..

I've did 2 external oveflows both are in the middle...I have returns in both corners.. just seems to make since that way.. works great HTH
 
The 1/8" ten gallon glass cracks much easier than the 3/16" 20gallon glass. If it has a bulkhead in it, dont go smaller than 3/16". I"ve knocked, twisted, torqued mine and they are fine. I did break it once though during construction. Dont sawzall the drain pipe while it's still in the bulkhead! The blade can pinch between the pipe and cause major damage. I speak from experience. Keep the projects going good work guys looking good.
 
I just got done cutting the long side (48") of my 75 and it has been sitting in the yard full of water for 3 days now without any problems. I'll be starting a thread tomorrow I think to show off all the pictures.
 
psyco_guy_abd, please post some pics here or link us to your thread. I plan on doing the same wiht my 75. I've already practiced on a 20H but am still having problems building up the guts to do it on my 75.
 
I'm sure this has been said a million times but putting masking tape on the backside of your teeth as you cut, and holes also, really helps to make the edges cleaner and keeps you from getting the chips when the ball points bursts through and your shaft (the part holding the ball) hits the glass.
 
Here's my contribution to the thread. I used a dremel and the tile cutting bit and cut a 8" long by 1 3/4"wide opening at one of the ends of my tank. My black acrylic should be arriving this week.

overflow1.jpg
 
APorter said:
Here's my contribution to the thread. I used a dremel and the tile cutting bit and cut a 8" long by 1 3/4"wide opening at one of the ends of my tank. My black acrylic should be arriving this week.


What size tank? How much flow? Give us some details.
 
My tank is 36x18x22. Built by Glasscages wth low-iron glass for front. The top has 3" eurobrace on back and sides and the front has 5" eurobrace. The extra width for front eurobrace was because tank will be in-wall and I wanted the eurobrace wider than the wall framing and drywall.

My plan for flow is a Tunze 6000 plus single controller and the return from sump.
 
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