Protein Skimmer Production/Improvements

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6747666#post6747666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by unkleJ
sorry 'bout the double post.

I think the needle valve helps me in that it allows me to really fine tune how much air is going into the needle wheel. This does 2 things - it effects the bubble size, and it effects the height of the liquid inside the skimmer.

Once I set the outflow valves so they were in the ballpark, the needle valve really allows me much finer control over the skimmate than just using those outflow valves alone.

I guess there an optimal amount of air for a needle wheel, more is not necessarily better. It can only handle so much air flow.

Just to correct theory here:


The needlevalve isnt making bubbles smaller. Whats actually happening is that you're restricting the air intake on the pump. Some pump/venturi combinations tend to run at a point where the pump is slightly cavitating. When you restrict the air, the pump pulls slightly more water, and because its pulling more water, can handle more air. It sounds wierd that restricting the air line will make a pump draw more air, but in some cases, its true.

Because the pump isnt cavitating, it also pulls air more consistently. If you want a flowmeter, a pump that is cavitating will bounce all over the place. Once you put the needlevalve on and tweak a little, it starts being much more consistent. This is good for air draw, and skimmate production.
 
I'd like to join the skimmer topic with a few observations of my own.
Let me give the routing from the tank first. I run dual overflows and clear vinyl 1" ID tubing to the sump. Just before the sump in each tube is a pvc gate valve with the red T handle. The T handle is used to regulate the waterflow before it enters the sump. This method stopped all sump noise 100% once I got them dialed in. The drain lines enter the side of the sump at the sump water level.

Inside the sump both lines hit a PVC T fitting turned so one end is under water and the other end has a stand pipe. The T's dump the water into a tray. The water has to overflow the tray, the a set of baffles. Then the water enters the skimmer area. The overflow water from the skimmer is returned to that same tray where the tank water is dumped.

What makes it past the skimmer runs into a wall of filter floss which contains a trace amount of carbon. Then to the return pump. The filter floss is that blue type with the black plastic backing and carbon between the two. It's meant for a HOB filter/skimmer.

That's how my sump is configured for the most part. I run carbon in a sock 24/7 just before the return pump. I also have a uv sterilizer that I run occasionaly and a titanium heater during the winter.

I run RO to a top-off bucket which I add KW to and the bucket feeds the sump via a float valve. I also use Randy's 2 part as needed to supplement the KW. The filter floss is changed daily as it always has a level of detritus built upon it no matter how well the skimmer is working. It also helps subdue the microbubbles that were getting through before I started using it.

Like everyone else my skimmer seems to have a mind of it's own at times but I've been able to correlate something which I've been wanting to talk about. What I've noticed is that after about 3 days I'll notice my skimmer skimate level starts to fall off. I clean the collection cup, check the air line and so forth. Then I do my tests which mainly are CA and ALK.

Very rarely do I have to add but a squirt of extra CA. I always seem to be falling quickly on the ALK though which I expect. I'll get to that shortly. For the ALK buffing I use the baking soda from the 2 part. Works perfectly and I pretty much have the routine down.

The correlation is that within a few minutes of buffing the tank water the skimmer will come back to life. I played with this observation over time by not disturbing the collection cup and just buffing also. I've become so atuned to being able to look at the skimmer and tell that my ALK level has fallen off somewhat that I just give the tank a shot of baking soda and walla!, here comes the bubbles again. Sometimes the bubbles take 5 minutes, and sometimes 15 minutes but it always works the same way. I've verified this many, many times with the test for ALK so I know there's a definite correlation there.

So my question is, has anybody else ever noticed that? Of course those with CR's probably wont have this issue, but I run the KW top off system which is simple and effective. I've been adding a new acro every week or two for quite a while and I'm running out of room somewhat. I've been slowly removing my softies but have a few that I will keep. Namely my purple tip anemone, neon green nepthia and my fist coral I started with way back, a glove leather.

As I continue to add sps I'm finding I have to be more vigilant on the CA/ALK monitoring but it's all in a weeks maintenance schedule.
 
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