pseudanthias smithvanizi
- Thread starter sTefaniA
- Start date
Welcome to Reef Central fastkid! Hope you continue to share your experiences (and perhaps pictures?)
roktsintst
New member
Wow!!!
maddog2002
New member
Wow...
stuifbol
New member
You should do that Thomas:mixed:
thanks to my tip you know there out there in our shop and in good eating condition:celeb1:
I'm hoping to add some next month
grtz Joeri
thanks to my tip you know there out there in our shop and in good eating condition:celeb1:
I'm hoping to add some next month
grtz Joeri
pacislandaqua
.Registered Member
i get them from time to time from the marshalls. Not to common though, and deeper than most anthias.
They have a subtle beauty, and are super nice under LED lighting.
They have a subtle beauty, and are super nice under LED lighting.
yes stuifbol... thnx to you I found out another 40 were in the LFS.
Thnx for that!!
I added another 9 two weeks ago. They were in better condition then the first ten. Now i have one larger school en then a few individuals. I gues i have 15 of them or so. They are very shy and won't leave the rocks.Only when you feed them they come out. Maybe when I add another school they will be more vissible. I'll keep you guys posted.:wave:
Thnx for that!!
I added another 9 two weeks ago. They were in better condition then the first ten. Now i have one larger school en then a few individuals. I gues i have 15 of them or so. They are very shy and won't leave the rocks.Only when you feed them they come out. Maybe when I add another school they will be more vissible. I'll keep you guys posted.:wave:
after a long time... The anthias are very very hard. They need food 5-6 times a day and a lot. Or else they won't make it. Because of circumstances (rescape of the tank, sump and quarantiane in the cellar etc) i had to empty the display tank. It was to stressfull for the (i tink) 5 anthias left. I never buy these fishes again. They are to shy, verry stressfull and they are a big polluters.
All Delight
New member
I've been debating whether or not I should get some of these....They are nice! It's not fun if they always hid tho.
Sad it didn't work out for you. Anthias are demanding as they do need frequent feedings. I feed mine 5-8 times a day.
Sad it didn't work out for you. Anthias are demanding as they do need frequent feedings. I feed mine 5-8 times a day.
copps
Premium Member
I have to say that I've found this species to be similar to so many other cool water and/or deep water species I've kept in the past... when kept in warmer water the above statement is all too common... but the smithvanizi I have (pictures on the previous page) are thriving in my subtropical tank since 2010. Not only are they thriving, but I feed them just twice daily (as with all my other systems), they are a bold anthias (out and about up in the water column), and they are under bright lighting (6 bulb T5 fixture)...
Copps
All Delight
New member
So they will be happier in cooler water? Is 78 cool enough?
copps
Premium Member
Chooch, the subtropical tank is attached to my main reef system that runs between 77 and 79 degrees... the subtroical tank runs in the low 70s... sometimes during the winter in the high 60s... You could read about it in my TOTM article from last year...
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/76-tank-of-the-month
This portion of my article explains it best...
"One thing I always tell people is to buy fish that excite YOU! When we're new to the hobby many of the commonly available beautiful fish fulfill these desires. However, after having been in the hobby for so many years, and having seen such a great quantity of fish, one's interests and excitement often shift from the usual to the unusual. Such is the case with me. One trait common to many of these fish that are considered "œrare" in the industry is that they are collected from cooler waters. This can be due either to being collected in deeper water in a tropical climate, or in a subtropical locale. I've noticed in my many years of fish keeping that a species that naturally exclusively occurs in cool water in the wild will require those same temperatures in captivity to thrive long-term. When kept in appropriate temperatures, these species that I once considered "œhard to keep" were dramatically easier. I now believe that while there are many species that are "œhard to adapt", there are very few I'd consider "œhard to keep" when the right conditions are given. With that in mind I wanted a cool water tank without having to add a whole new system and all of the required extra maintenance and equipment. How was I to accomplish this?
Running nearly 3000 watts of light on this system, I regularly run chillers. I set up the 70 gallon with a closed loop driven by a Pan World 50PX-X that feeds through an AquaUV 57 watt sterilizer and two 1/3 HP Teco chillers, set to run between 68 and 72 degrees depending on the time of the year. I then fed the tank from my main system at a rate fast enough to allow enough water exchange for life support, yet not so fast that the temperature equalized to that of the main system, which runs between 77 and 79 degrees. This rate worked out to be about 20 gallons per hour, resulting in the exchange of the tank's water volume about once every three to four hours. I have this slow feed travel through an AquaUV 25 watt sterilizer as a precaution in case there should ever be a parasitic outbreak in my main system. Again, I cannot overemphasize the importance of strategically placed UV sterilizers in preventing pathogens from becoming a problem. Additional flow is provided by an Ecotech Marine Vortech MP10. These pocket sized pumps are outstanding and provide a surprising amount of controllable water flow for such a small pump. The tank is lit by a 6 x 24 watt T5 fixture and is mainly populated with SPS corals. The focus is on the fish however, so I'm placing corals that could both withstand the temperatures and the propensity for coral munching."
Again... I love this species!
Thanks,
Copps
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/76-tank-of-the-month
This portion of my article explains it best...
"One thing I always tell people is to buy fish that excite YOU! When we're new to the hobby many of the commonly available beautiful fish fulfill these desires. However, after having been in the hobby for so many years, and having seen such a great quantity of fish, one's interests and excitement often shift from the usual to the unusual. Such is the case with me. One trait common to many of these fish that are considered "œrare" in the industry is that they are collected from cooler waters. This can be due either to being collected in deeper water in a tropical climate, or in a subtropical locale. I've noticed in my many years of fish keeping that a species that naturally exclusively occurs in cool water in the wild will require those same temperatures in captivity to thrive long-term. When kept in appropriate temperatures, these species that I once considered "œhard to keep" were dramatically easier. I now believe that while there are many species that are "œhard to adapt", there are very few I'd consider "œhard to keep" when the right conditions are given. With that in mind I wanted a cool water tank without having to add a whole new system and all of the required extra maintenance and equipment. How was I to accomplish this?
Running nearly 3000 watts of light on this system, I regularly run chillers. I set up the 70 gallon with a closed loop driven by a Pan World 50PX-X that feeds through an AquaUV 57 watt sterilizer and two 1/3 HP Teco chillers, set to run between 68 and 72 degrees depending on the time of the year. I then fed the tank from my main system at a rate fast enough to allow enough water exchange for life support, yet not so fast that the temperature equalized to that of the main system, which runs between 77 and 79 degrees. This rate worked out to be about 20 gallons per hour, resulting in the exchange of the tank's water volume about once every three to four hours. I have this slow feed travel through an AquaUV 25 watt sterilizer as a precaution in case there should ever be a parasitic outbreak in my main system. Again, I cannot overemphasize the importance of strategically placed UV sterilizers in preventing pathogens from becoming a problem. Additional flow is provided by an Ecotech Marine Vortech MP10. These pocket sized pumps are outstanding and provide a surprising amount of controllable water flow for such a small pump. The tank is lit by a 6 x 24 watt T5 fixture and is mainly populated with SPS corals. The focus is on the fish however, so I'm placing corals that could both withstand the temperatures and the propensity for coral munching."
Again... I love this species!
Thanks,
Copps
copps
Premium Member
My educated guess would be no... but questions like this are not easy to answer... While I have been deemed "crazy" by my wife and friends (and all but the 0.000000000001% that share my passion and appreciate it... thanks RC!) for the numbre of fish I have and bring through QT, I do not have the experience to say what ideally the temps for these fish should be. With that said, the answers to these types of questions is never something like "these are okay at 76 and not at 78"... it is more of a gradual scale in my experience where certain fish will thrive at one temp range, do okay at another, and fade gradually as it goes up. The process is only seen too over months or years and so it's very tough to quantify... I do know when, however, a species thrives... Also, I've noticed that short term spikes are generally okay (within reason)... it's more of the prolonged temperature a fish is kept at. I'm in the process of setting up a small stand alone cool water tank to keep some other fish I have... a tiny Centropyge interrupta, tiny Chaetodon tinkeri, Centropyge fisheri/ C. potteri hybrid... etc... it will be fish only with just a few LEDs for lighting to help the electric and chilling costs...
Who else keeps fish COOL?:dance:
Copps
