Push fits

[NewToReefHobbby]

Here is the updated version with the new fittings. I will be cutting the hose down attachment to fit flexible hose pipe. This is purely to remove the hose fittings should I need to move the tank without dismantling every joint without breaking it down.
I haven't glued it yet. will do the complete gluing part once the baffles are ready in the sump

 

[NewToReefHobbby]

here is my final build including sump.

there are 4 holes at the back of the tank.

2 main overflow joining them together into the SUMP
1 hole on the left will be the inlet/return attached to the pump.
1 hole on the extreme left is an additional over flow,just in case if something goes wrong it shouldn't overflow the tank, instead it will drop into the sump.

In the other picture you can see the return has a pipe attached to it which has 3 outlets, I haven't tested the pressure yet, but if I see the pressure too high on one and too low on the extreme end I will put a cap at the end or I will join them and create a loop around. What do you think?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

So the black plumbing is your overflow system?

Joining the two overflows together, and then reducing down through the barb to the flexible hose, is going to severely reduce your overflow's capacity. Also, I see you have a valve on the overflow line. The return pump will set the flow rate through the system, the only reason to have a valve on an overflow is if you're running a full siphon as in a Herbie or Beananimal drain, this doesn't look like either to me.

Regardless of whether the drains are siphon or open channel, I would suggest running separate lines from each to the sump. Also, try to route your drains so there are no horizontal sections, as that can make it very difficult for the drain to purge all the air when it starts. Instead of long sections that are horizontal and vertical, try putting in some 45's or using flex pvc in order to get where you need them to be in the sump.

 

[NewToReefHobbby]

So the black plumbing is your overflow system?

Joining the two overflows together, and then reducing down through the barb to the flexible hose, is going to severely reduce your overflow's capacity. Also, I see you have a valve on the overflow line. The return pump will set the flow rate through the system, the only reason to have a valve on an overflow is if you're running a full siphon as in a Herbie or Beananimal drain, this doesn't look like either to me.

Regardless of whether the drains are siphon or open channel, I would suggest running separate lines from each to the sump. Also, try to route your drains so there are no horizontal sections, as that can make it very difficult for the drain to purge all the air when it starts. Instead of long sections that are horizontal and vertical, try putting in some 45's or using flex pvc in order to get where you need them to be in the sump.

mmmm... Thank you for your feedback. I will start stripping and cutting the pipes down and set them up separately and rebuild it

The pump has a flow control built in.