Pvc overflow
- Thread starter Joel_155
- Start date
uncleof6
Active member
Yes the fact you will be plagued with sucking air into the drain inlets--causing turbulence (read problems) or NO surface skimming if it does not suck in air. If the flow rate is very low, such that water gently enters the outlets, and the pipes stay at less than a 1/4 full, it MAY work ok, but air assisted drains should not be joined, as this makes for double the problems. These things do not work as advertised.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I had one of these on my 30g. It worked OK but never worked well. For a small tank using low flow rates it does the job but it's not the most reliable.
The way you have it now WON'T work because there is no place on the external side of the siphon to trap water to maintain the siphon. The cross needs to be higher than the lowest point to keep water on both ends of the siphon otherwise it sucks in air, draining the siphons. Also, both ends of the siphon should be at the same height on the inside and outside of the tank.
From my 30g thread (circa 2008 with no reefing experience at that time)
It helps to keep the distance between the bottom of the siphon and the cross short.
Personally, I would never use another siphon based overflow again. Drilling a tank is more about nerves and proper setup than risk.
Like uncleof6 said, it doesn't work as advertised.
RocketEngineer
The way you have it now WON'T work because there is no place on the external side of the siphon to trap water to maintain the siphon. The cross needs to be higher than the lowest point to keep water on both ends of the siphon otherwise it sucks in air, draining the siphons. Also, both ends of the siphon should be at the same height on the inside and outside of the tank.
From my 30g thread (circa 2008 with no reefing experience at that time)
It helps to keep the distance between the bottom of the siphon and the cross short.
Personally, I would never use another siphon based overflow again. Drilling a tank is more about nerves and proper setup than risk.
Like uncleof6 said, it doesn't work as advertised.
RocketEngineer
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NanoReefWanabe
Active member
that is a much better plan...a herbie would work fine too, but bean is safer.
Joel_155
New member
So I'm going to drill the tank tomorrow. So I've seen the videos and the idea is pretty simple. I was going to get some putty (or clay) and make a small puddle around the area that I'm going to drill and tape the other side with duct tape. Will any hole saw work or do I need a special one to drill this? Diamond tipped??
uncleof6
Active member
CanadaChop
New member
I found a few diamond hole saws on ebay for $8 shipping from USA. Im going to drill and DIY my overflow so please post picks of what you come up with. Good luck with your drilling everyone says not to worry just dont try to push the saw through let it do the work.
CanadaChop
New member
Have I seen your PICO VASE on MASB
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
well thanks for looking...i havent seen your tank there yet have i?
sorry this is better left to a PM.
OP be sure to use a diamond or even a carbide saw to cut the glass, both bits should look the same (bunch of little rocks epoxied to the end of the bit) go very slow, heat is the enemy here both for the glass and for your bit...lots of water...a damb of clay or putty work but is not necessary...i usually do it outside with a garden hose clipped to the tank...it is too loud to do in the house
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Joel_155
New member
Thanks Nano! I tried to find the bit at the local lowes and home depot and realized that was a mistake. I just ordered from the website that Uncleof6 posted. I think this is going to be a fun build. Basically just a built up QT but I'm more doing it to learn. I"ll post more pictures once I get the bit.
Joel_155
New member
Hey all,
So i think i want to go with a C2C style overflow for this setup. I was thinking of just getting the glass cut and then siliconing the pieces together to make the overflow. My question is will the pressure created by water falling into the box be supported by silicone? Im not sure if this is a prefab unit that can be bought so i thought id ask. I could make it out of acrylic but i know that using silicone in glass and acrylic works for baffles but that's about it.
So i think i want to go with a C2C style overflow for this setup. I was thinking of just getting the glass cut and then siliconing the pieces together to make the overflow. My question is will the pressure created by water falling into the box be supported by silicone? Im not sure if this is a prefab unit that can be bought so i thought id ask. I could make it out of acrylic but i know that using silicone in glass and acrylic works for baffles but that's about it.
RocketEngineer
Space is big.
I would go the glass/silicone route. Keep in mind that with the tank full and the overflow box empty the water is actually pushing UP on the overflow box (think boat). With only a couple inch difference in water height the proper silicone is plenty strong enough to support the box. Make sure you have clean surfaces and if done properly the only way to remove the box is with a utility knife.
FYI acrylic baffles in a glass tank aren't recommended. While folks have gotten away with it, the acrylic can expand and crack the sump. Why risk a cracked sump when doing it correctly is just as easy.
The old adage of take your time and do it right applies in both cases.
RocketEngineer
