QT for observation and first fish?

[isomorphic85]

So I've gone through the countless QT posts to try and figure out what makes the most sense but i'm still unclear here.

I have a new display tank 150 gallons with 25 gallon sump currently cycling.

I also have a new biocube 29 that i'm going to use as a QT tank.

I understand that there should be no sand no rock etc in the QT tank, pull out the bioballs etc

When quarantining for observation should I be using water from the main display tank (after cycling has completed) OR fill the QT tank with fresh salt water. The biocube has a protein skimmer and uv lamp. should i be running carbon in it when only doing observation for QT?

to the best of my understanding with a QT setup the idea is to never let the tank cycle?

i'm confused on this portion when it comes to a QT for observation.

Also I'm either going to start out with 1 chromis or 2 clowns which would be suggested and also is it possible to add 2 clowns to a 29 gallon QT for observation or will they fight etc since there's absolutely nothing in the tank (sand rock etc)

Additionally if starting the QT with fresh salt water is acceptable do I need to cycle the QT tank as well , if not when can i add the fish to the QT tank?

I appreciate the help in advance!

 

[Sk8r]

With that much room they should be fine. Pairs and groups are the one exception to 1 fish per qt. if they're very small.

There are 2 schools of thought on qt. My own preference is completely bare, no sand for ich to infest. Some do cycle their qt and some always have a qt alive and going. I just don't trust a tank with sand or rock if I'm trying to eliminate ich as a possibility.

 

[gone fishin]

you don't mention how long your going to observe. I would suggest 6-8 weeks. A lot of LFS and suppliers use low doses of copper, This can potentially mask symptoms for about 30 days. I would also suggest looking into the tank transfer method (TTM) for ich

FWIW my protocol is TTM followed by 4-5 weeks in the main QT, for a total of 6-7 weeks. I also treat with 2 rounds of prazipro for internal parasites.

I very seldom cycle my QT. I rely on WC's, ammonia alert badge and some prime for any ammonia. You can toss a few PVC fittings in the tank so the fishes have a place to hide out when they feel the need.

I also think the larger the tank the more important to QT. I am sure you can visualize a tankful of fish and trying to take them all out to treat, without wrecking the tank. Good luck

 

[Newsmyrna80]

you don't mention how long your going to observe. I would suggest 6-8 weeks. A lot of LFS and suppliers use low doses of copper, This can potentially mask symptoms for about 30 days. I would also suggest looking into the tank transfer method (TTM) for ich

FWIW my protocol is TTM followed by 4-5 weeks in the main QT, for a total of 6-7 weeks. I also treat with 2 rounds of prazipro for internal parasites.

Agree. This protocol is within the timeline for Brook, uronema and velvet to present at which time you can treat. I do keep a cycled qt running.

 

[isomorphic85]

Thanks guys...

I know that many people suggest different amounts of time for qt.

I want to do things correctly as to avoid as many headaches as I can down the road.

If I don't need to cycle the qt by doing what you do to handle the ammonia would it make sense for me to get a fish in the qt now so that I can begin the observation period as the display tank cycles?

I'm unfamiliar with the ttm for ich I will look that up now.

Good information to know about lfs using methods that can mask issues.

I was planning on purchasing all livestock through live aquaria as there are no notably good lfs around me. Has anyone had good or bad stories with live aquaria

 

[gone fishin]

I have had good luck with LA most of the time. No fault of LA, storms delayed transit but LA sent me another fish out.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389659

The link from the fish disease forum will help you out.

Before getting a fish to QT make sure you got everything you need and a protocol to follow, if you decide not to just observe. I would also recommend having water on hand ready to go for WC's when needed.

 

[isomorphic85]

great information really appreciate it!

Do you feel the 2 rounds of prazipro for internal parasites is worth doing while in observation? Any negative affects of doing it?

 

[gone fishin]

IMO of the things we can treat fishes with prazi is probably the easiest on the fish. Follow the directions and you should be fine. I have had some not eat as much but bounced right back.

IMO the prazi is good for internal parasites and flukes that are sometimes not readily visible unless we are very experienced in picking out subtle symptoms.

 

[isomorphic85]

understood. I think I will adopt your method of treating with the prazi during observation...

what are the essential items i should have on hand for a QT during observation period other then the normal tank equipment, salt water on hand etc.

The ammonia badge looks interesting. I didn't find the prime.

I typically purchase through bulk reef supply.

 

[gone fishin]

Prime is made by seachem as is the badge. Other than the usual equipment I like to keep an air pump and air stones on hand for some extra aeration. Once done with the stone I toss it and the line they are cheap enough. I think I picked them up at wal mart.

 

[gone fishin]

Forgot I believe I got the prime from DR'sF&S.

 

[isomorphic85]

for the first fish was either going to go with 1 black and white clown and 1 Ocellaris Clownfish in QT at same time (do you see any issues with this)? or a blue green reef chromis.

 

[gone fishin]

if the black and white is an ocellaris then I think it would be fine. I believe different types of clowns for example a maroon and an oscellaris would possible fight, especially if adult size.

 

[isomorphic85]

both are ocellaris and are captive bred.

I appreciate your time !

 

[gone fishin]

No problem :beer: