QT size recommendation and transfer method?

[lonbrat]

How big would you recommend a qt tank for
6 false p. Clowns ( all about the size of a quarter but 2)
1 yellow watchman goby
1 six line wrasse
1 lawnmower blenny
1 mandarin dragonet ( or can I skip quarantine? Due to it being almost ich resistant, and it's hard to provide pods in QT)
1 domino damsel
And 2 blue green damsels

Not all are showing signs of ich ( mandarin, Yw goby, lawnmower blenny, and domino damsel) but I want to qt all anyways before I put them into my new DT. ( two of the clowns are not for that tank but I want to QT them all the same)
And all the fish get along fine from what I see, just the goby doesn't like powerheads.

And how would you recommend doing a transfer method for all these fish? I can split them into groups if need be.

And how long should I QT inverts and corals ??

Danke~! Any info is well appreciated !

 

[Newsmyrna80]

Are these fish new or have you had them in an established tank? Are they going in to an ich free tank after treatment?

 

[Dmorty217]

You can split them in groups for the TTM. The mandarin is ich resistant but not ich proof so if you skip QT you stand a very high probability of transferring disease into your DT your trying so hard not to infect. The inverts and corals should be in a tank for 73 days by themselves with no fish to ensure ich isn't introduced that way. QT in as large a tank as you can

 

[lonbrat]

Are these fish new or have you had them in an established tank? Are they going in to an ich free tank after treatment?

They were in my old DT, I'm transferring them to my new one at my main house
The new one is cycled, but I don't want to bring the parasite with them.

 

[lonbrat]

You can split them in groups for the TTM. The mandarin is ich resistant but not ich proof so if you skip QT you stand a very high probability of transferring disease into your DT your trying so hard not to infect. The inverts and corals should be in a tank for 73 days by themselves with no fish to ensure ich isn't introduced that way. QT in as large a tank as you can

Okay so I should do the transfer method with the mandarin? Or should I just put him in a qt and skip the transfer? It will be hard to feed him during that time.
Do you think a 30 gal. Will suffice ? Or two 30 gal.? I can get another one set up if need be.
Okay I'll leave the inverts in the old tank while I wait for ich to die.

Thanks!

 

[Newsmyrna80]

I would include the mandarin in on the TT. The mucus on their skin makes their skin resistant but they can still get it in/on their gills. I would not take the chance. Does he eat mysis or ova/caviar?
If you are asking about the size tanks to use for TT I would use 2 30 gallons (be sure you have an ammonia detoxifier on hand). But theoretically after the TT is complete the fish should be ich free and could be moved into the new DT.
Definitely leave all inverts in the other tank as Dmorty said.

 

[lonbrat]

I would include the mandarin in on the TT. The mucus on their skin makes their skin resistant but they can still get it in/on their gills. I would not take the chance. Does he eat mysis or ova/caviar?
If you are asking about the size tanks to use for TT I would use 2 30 gallons (be sure you have an ammonia detoxifier on hand). But theoretically after the TT is complete the fish should be ich free and could be moved into the new DT.
Definitely leave all inverts in the other tank as Dmorty said.

Okay, thanks a ton! ^^
My mandarin only eats pods from what I've tried, and I'm sure he eats some of the brine shrimp I feed the tank for "treats" just on top of their normal food. (Frozen mysis soaked in garlic) I don't think he eats the mysis at all though... And I'm not sure about other live food/ or dead? he would eat? Any ideas?
Could I just QT him in a nano 10 gal.? It's got a ton of pods

( I was also planning on dosing the water in the TT with paraguard just in case or is that a bad idea? I have another "reef safe treatment" Ich attack by Kordon)
I heard that a lot of people don't trust this stuff, but if I'm doing TTM would it matter if I added it?

 

[Newsmyrna80]

TT does not require any other meds for treating ich. I wouldn't dose anything else.
The problem with quarantining the mandarin in the 10 gallon is since you are not treating him via TT he could be a potential carrier and once you introduce him back with the treated fish he could reinfect them. However, since mandarins are resistant it may not be a problem. It depends on how much of a risk you are willing to take. As far as feeding the mandarin you could buy bottled pods to feed during TT or use pods from the clean 10 gallon.

 

[lonbrat]

TT does not require any other meds for treating ich. I wouldn't dose anything else.
The problem with quarantining the mandarin in the 10 gallon is since you are not treating him via TT he could be a potential carrier and once you introduce him back with the treated fish he could reinfect them. However, since mandarins are resistant it may not be a problem. It depends on how much of a risk you are willing to take. As far as feeding the mandarin you could buy bottled pods to feed during TT or use pods from the clean 10 gallon.

Okay, I won't add any treatments to thier water then. I think I'll just QT the mandarin in the 10 gal. He looks fine, not breathing heavy or anything. But I won't add him to the DT for a good while. He just gets really stressed out every time I move him, he turns a pale grey and takes a long time to get color back. I'm afraid the TTM would kill him after the second TT.
And maybe I can convince him to eat frozen now in there.
Thank you ^^!

 

[ThRoewer]

If you don't have to treat an active infection and this is just precaution you have time to set up a bottle to hatch enough brine shrimp to feed the mandarins.
I currently run a pipefish through TTM and it only eats life food. He is so small that I can keep him in a small Container Store shoe box. I just add some tigger pods when I put him into the next box and it lasts him the 3 days.

 

[Spar]

If you don't have to treat an active infection and this is just precaution you have time to set up a bottle to hatch enough brine shrimp to feed the mandarins.
I currently run a pipefish through TTM and it only eats life food. He is so small that I can keep him in a small Container Store shoe box. I just add some tigger pods when I put him into the next box and it lasts him the 3 days.

interesting, i hadn't heard/thought of brine shrimp with mandarins. will they for sure accept them as food? is it mainly just live things that they prefer?

may be what pushes me along to try a mandarin and pipefish.

 

[Newsmyrna80]

Keeping the mandarin in a 10 gal by itself may be a good opportunity to teach it to eat prepared food. I trained mine by placing a small glass jar on its side then I would put mysis, cyclopeeze, ova in the jar. To entice him to go into the jar I would squirt bottled pods in the jar. He would go in for the pods but stay for everything else. The jar keeps the food contained for easy removal and no water flow for easier hunting.

 

[lonbrat]

Keeping the mandarin in a 10 gal by itself may be a good opportunity to teach it to eat prepared food. I trained mine by placing a small glass jar on its side then I would put mysis, cyclopeeze, ova in the jar. To entice him to go into the jar I would squirt bottled pods in the jar. He would go in for the pods but stay for everything else. The jar keeps the food contained for easy removal and no water flow for easier hunting.

Yeah I was going to try the jar trick. This might be a dumb question, but do you think I should just put mysis in the jar, or mysis and reef plankton? ( it's orange and frozen in little cubes like mysis)
It's a smaller, pod-shaped food in my opinion, and I have both mysis and that.
I'll try to get the Other things you mentioned, but my Lfs doesn't have much variety when it comes to food.
Bottled pods, I never looked at those as a sufficient food for them. At least for the price lol, I bought a bottle with maybe 40 in it, for 25$
I'm just gonna go to Florida and get some sea water for free xD

 

[lonbrat]

interesting, i hadn't heard/thought of brine shrimp with mandarins. will they for sure accept them as food? is it mainly just live things that they prefer?

may be what pushes me along to try a mandarin and pipefish.

I would be careful when resorting to brine shrimp, they aren't very healthy for the fish, kinda like potato chips, but baby brine have more nutritional value than bigger brine shrimp.
Maybe you could use the brine shrimp to train the mandarin ( I've never looked into training pipe fish, but it could probably be done in a similar way) to eat frozen foods.
and ps, my mandarin typically doesn't like brine shrimp unless it's in the rocks, but he's learning that they are all edible.

Good luck ^^

 

[Oakes1523]

Registered Member

Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 85
So if I have 2 buckets, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, and air stones I have all the right equipment? I set both buckets up with new saltwater, add the heaters, thermometers, and air stones in. Once at the right temp I can introduce the 2 clowns into the first bucket. Right on 72 hours after introduced into first bucket, get the fish in a plastic cup, drain as much water as I can ( or all of it) then drop the the fish into the second bucket. I then drain the bucket, clean the bucket, heater, and thermometer with some bleach spray and let dry for at least 24 hours. Throw away the air stones. I then set up the first bucket with new water, bleachEd and dried equipment. After the fish are in the second bucket for exactly 72 hours, I grab the fish in a NEW plastic cup, transfer as little water, if not all water, and drop the fish back into the first bucket. Drain, clean, and dry the second bucket and equipment and get ready for net transfer. After 72 hours I get the fish and put them into the second bucket. I do a total of 4 transfers 1-2 from 2-1 from 1-2 from 2-1. I start one the first bucket and end on the first bucket. After the 4 transfers, I put the fish in permanent quarantine tank and watch for 1 month. THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY....RIGHT? Sorry I'm weird and have to write everything out, instead of seeing "repeat, repeat, repeat".

 

[Spar]

So if I have 2 buckets, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, and air stones I have all the right equipment? I set both buckets up with new saltwater, add the heaters, thermometers, and air stones in. Once at the right temp I can introduce the 2 clowns into the first bucket. Right on 72 hours after introduced into first bucket, get the fish in a plastic cup, drain as much water as I can ( or all of it) then drop the the fish into the second bucket. I then drain the bucket, clean the bucket, heater, and thermometer with some bleach spray and let dry for at least 24 hours. Throw away the air stones. I then set up the first bucket with new water, bleachEd and dried equipment. After the fish are in the second bucket for exactly 72 hours, I grab the fish in a NEW plastic cup, transfer as little water, if not all water, and drop the fish back into the first bucket. Drain, clean, and dry the second bucket and equipment and get ready for net transfer. After 72 hours I get the fish and put them into the second bucket. I do a total of 4 transfers 1-2 from 2-1 from 1-2 from 2-1. I start one the first bucket and end on the first bucket. After the 4 transfers, I put the fish in permanent quarantine tank and watch for 1 month. THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY....RIGHT? Sorry I'm weird and have to write everything out, instead of seeing "repeat, repeat, repeat".

correct!

you can use the same cup each time to transfer the fish with, FYI. just clean it like you are cleaning the other equipment. i use a colander.

 

[Newsmyrna80]

Registered Member

Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 85
So if I have 2 buckets, 2 heaters, 2 thermometers, and air stones I have all the right equipment? I set both buckets up with new saltwater, add the heaters, thermometers, and air stones in. Once at the right temp I can introduce the 2 clowns into the first bucket. Right on 72 hours after introduced into first bucket, get the fish in a plastic cup, drain as much water as I can ( or all of it) then drop the the fish into the second bucket. I then drain the bucket, clean the bucket, heater, and thermometer with some bleach spray and let dry for at least 24 hours. Throw away the air stones. I then set up the first bucket with new water, bleachEd and dried equipment. After the fish are in the second bucket for exactly 72 hours, I grab the fish in a NEW plastic cup, transfer as little water, if not all water, and drop the fish back into the first bucket. Drain, clean, and dry the second bucket and equipment and get ready for net transfer. After 72 hours I get the fish and put them into the second bucket. I do a total of 4 transfers 1-2 from 2-1 from 1-2 from 2-1. I start one the first bucket and end on the first bucket. After the 4 transfers, I put the fish in permanent quarantine tank and watch for 1 month. THIS IS THE CORRECT WAY....RIGHT? Sorry I'm weird and have to write everything out, instead of seeing "repeat, repeat, repeat".

You may want to start a new thread for your question.

 

[Newsmyrna80]

Yeah I was going to try the jar trick. This might be a dumb question, but do you think I should just put mysis in the jar, or mysis and reef plankton? ( it's orange and frozen in little cubes like mysis)
It's a smaller, pod-shaped food in my opinion, and I have both mysis and that.
I'll try to get the Other things you mentioned, but my Lfs doesn't have much variety when it comes to food.
Bottled pods, I never looked at those as a sufficient food for them. At least for the price lol, I bought a bottle with maybe 40 in it, for 25$
I'm just gonna go to Florida and get some sea water for free xD

Yeah, those bottled pods are expensive! You could try the reef plankton or anything else that is small enough for him to eat and is nutritious.