Quarantine for Corals/other inverts

[Constantin]

Do you QT your corals and other inverts, if so, how and for how long?

My main concern is ich - which could be transfered with the water that the corals come with, or in the plugs, ect. All other parasites or problems associated with getting new corals can be diagnosed by just observing the coral for a few days in a QT tank. Possible ich contamination would require a long term QT.
Whats the best method to be safe? I can only think of setting up a separate tank for this purpose, with adequate lighting, filtration, heaters, powerheads, ect - is that the only option to go?

I already have a 55g QT, but i use copper in that one so... not an option.

 

[McSassy]

I don't think inverts play host to ich.

 

[Robka]

I don't think inverts play host to ich.

+1 on this opinion. It is possible for Ich to be in the water, but the coral or inverts most likely will not have ich on them. If you avoid adding the coral water you should be in good shape. I quarantine all my fish, but my QT does not have adequate lighting or filtration for coral.

Good luck,

Robka

 

[glaukos]

maybe classic dipping in betadine will kill also the ich that was in the water corals came with,if there was any

 

[Constantin]

betadine? what is it, i am not familiar...

I do realize that corals dont host ich, as well as any other inverts, however, water or plugs/lr that sometimes frags come with can have some... or are we talking about something thats extremely unlikely?

I just basically wanted to know how many people QT inverts long term.

 

[Marchingbandjs]

Betadine, hmm very very strong anti bacterial and fungus liquid. Used a lot in the horse world for rain-rot. I wouldnt see a use for it here you would have to dilute it like a mofo, and there are much better alternatives.

 

[Gwynhidwy]

Yes invertebrates themselves cannot host the parasite that causes ich, but it is very possible for the reproductive stage to have attached to something hard, like a hermit crab's shell or frag plug, and be brought into a tank. The turbellarian that causes black ich can be hosted by invertebrates and fish, so some invertebrates can bring in parasites that will harm fish as well.

Betadine is a brand name for a povidone-iodine solution that is a topical antiseptic used primarily in wound cleaning and as a pre-surgical scrub, but I don't know that it would be effective against the reproductive stage of Crypt, and using it straight would likely burn coral tissue.

I quarantine everything wet. I have an invertebrate only quarantine. I put all new invertebrates in this fish free environment for 12 weeks. It is a simple setup and has worked very well.

 

[LargeAngels]

I quarantine everything wet.

+1. Any water dropplet can carry ich, velvet, etc.

 

[glaukos]

gw i used in some unwanted frags,betadine

mixed with some water from the tank.
got rid of some flatworms and nudis but as for the ick that
was or wasn't on the coral i really don't know.
it would be great if it did kill it.

of course there are many liquids that we can use

 

[wooden_reefer]

+1. Any water dropplet can carry ich, velvet, etc.

+1

Except from trade with a trusted aquarist.

All water from LFS or online stores must be fishless for eight weeks before adding to my DT.

 

[Constantin]

whats a good QT setup for corals/inverts and water of course

 

[wooden_reefer]

whats a good QT setup for corals/inverts and water of course

most corals need special lights. I get the corals and place them in DT and wait for at least eight weeks before I even think of adding fish.

You can get light just for the QT if you want.

 

[Constantin]

How about this-

I currently have a frag tank hooked up to my system, and usually all new corals end up in the frag tank for acclimation, its a shallow tank with a 150light over it.

Water is pumped from the sump, and overflows back into the sump -
So, how about this - I hook up a big enough UV filter after the overflow on the frag tank - do you think this is a pretty safe setup(considering the small chance for corals to have an ich attached to begin with).

This way i dont have to worry about water quality in my invert QT and the water params are going to be optimal!

Everyone, let me know what you think - this would be an easy setup and avoid setting up yet ANOTHER tank.... At least for now ...

 

[Gwynhidwy]

Everyone, let me know what you think - this would be an easy setup and avoid setting up yet ANOTHER tank.... At least for now ...

Wait, you want to avoid setting up another tank? That just doesn't make any sense.

I think the UV would help, but I don't think it would eliminate risk by any means. It would have to be very beefy to be effective. I think it would be safer than just putting them in the DT, but not safe enough for my tastes.

For what its worth, my setup is fairly simple and easy to maintain. I have a tank, a HOB filter, a heater, some frag racks, and a pump for extra water movement. I have a simple T-5 light fixture, a few snails and a small amount of live rock. Most of the equipment was scavenged from other systems and left over stuff.

 

[Constantin]

flow rates out of the frag tanks are fairly low, maybe about 250gph... Shouldnt a UV filter kill any free floating parasites? it should be around 99.999% effective for stuff passing through... unless i am mistaken :rolleye1:

(i dont believe UV filters do much for DTs, so have little exprience - had one on a discus tank a long time ago and thats about it.) Anyone know the facts about a UV setup like this? (keep in mind, we are talking about a 15g frag tank with low flow rate going out).

 

[wooden_reefer]

flow rates out of the frag tanks are fairly low, maybe about 250gph... Shouldnt a UV filter kill any free floating parasites? it should be around 99.999% effective for stuff passing through... unless i am mistaken :rolleye1:

(i dont believe UV filters do much for DTs, so have little exprience - had one on a discus tank a long time ago and thats about it.) Anyone know the facts about a UV setup like this? (keep in mind, we are talking about a 15g frag tank with low flow rate going out).

UV sized against bacteria, viruses, algae are not powerful enough against ich.

The diatom filter when properly sized and charged with diatom earth can reduce the spread of ich. I have two from 25 years ago, they still run and I use one for special purpose.

If you QT to eradicate ich (for fish eight weeks of active treatment), you don't quite need a diatom filter. May be an aquarium club should have one to share in dire situation of ick outbreak.

Ich can be eradicated by QT.

 

[Constantin]

Err...
Not strong enough to kill ich? Is ich a special kind of parasite immune to radiation?

A 16w ultralife UV filter is rated for 430gph, i intend to put 100gph through it.

Here is what THEY say - is it a true or should i take it with a grain of salt?

Based on a 70,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter) the flowrates are as follows:
16 Watt UV Unit 430 gph
40 Watt UV Unit 1000 gph
60 Watt UV Unit 1500 gph
By changing the flow rate through the UV unit you will change the effective "kill power" of the UV unit.

For example: If you only allow 215 gph thru the 16 watt unit, you will effectively increase the kill power to 140,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter). And also the opposite, by increasing the flow rate you will lower the "kill power".

We have included a chart to help you calculate your flow rate depending on the "kill power" needed for the corresponding Micro-Organisms.
Waterborne Algae 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2
Common Bacteria 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2
Protozoa (Ich) 45,000 æW sec/cm2
Fungi 45,000 æW sec/cm2

I found someone saying that you need around 320,000 æW sec/cm2 to kill ich in cyst stage(I should still be able to get that)...

In cyst stage, does the cyst attach/encrust? in other words, if i got it with a coral, would it free float anywhere? (I would really love for the setup i am thinking of to work).

 

[wooden_reefer]

Err...
Not strong enough to kill ich? Is ich a special kind of parasite immune to radiation?

A 16w ultralife UV filter is rated for 430gph, i intend to put 100gph through it.

Here is what THEY say - is it a true or should i take it with a grain of salt?

Based on a 70,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter) the flowrates are as follows:
16 Watt UV Unit 430 gph
40 Watt UV Unit 1000 gph
60 Watt UV Unit 1500 gph
By changing the flow rate through the UV unit you will change the effective "kill power" of the UV unit.

For example: If you only allow 215 gph thru the 16 watt unit, you will effectively increase the kill power to 140,000 æW sec/cm2 (microwatt seconds per square centimeter). And also the opposite, by increasing the flow rate you will lower the "kill power".

We have included a chart to help you calculate your flow rate depending on the "kill power" needed for the corresponding Micro-Organisms.
Waterborne Algae 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2
Common Bacteria 15,000 to 30,000 æW sec/cm2
Protozoa (Ich) 45,000 æW sec/cm2
Fungi 45,000 æW sec/cm2

I found someone saying that you need around 320,000 æW sec/cm2 to kill ich in cyst stage(I should still be able to get that)...

In cyst stage, does the cyst attach/encrust? in other words, if i got it with a coral, would it free float anywhere? (I would really love for the setup i am thinking of to work).

I have tried 15 watt for a 40 gal system. Correct flowrate for bacteria control. No luck against ich.

More practical against ich, if you still want just control in DT and not eradication by QT, is the diatom filter.

You can have diatom filter against ich and UV aganist bacteria and viruses in DT.

 

[Constantin]

I think you have missed the original post...
I dont want to control Ich in DT - currently DT going fallow because of an small ich outbreak, but i moved all fish and am on week 6

All i was asking is for a QT setup for my corals - which are housed in a separate frag tank. My question was - If i set up the frag tank in such a way that all water going out(at about 100gph or less) goes through a UV filter, can i add corals or inverts to that tank without QT. In other words, all water going to DT from that tank will pass through a UV filter, so any possible micro organisms will die.
I made a picture

 

[hapgisma]

Hi

Hi

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