Quarantine for Corals/other inverts

[Constantin]

You nod to Ameko worriedly, "Yeah... well, see.. I'm already paying skotos to play my favorite games. I don't think I can commit to paying someone else to play their game. Also, I really hate doing stuff like committing to projects, or signing non-disclosure agreements.".

You lost me there

 

[Gwynhidwy]

I think that your idea is sound, I just don't know if your UV will adequate or not. I know that on most systems part of the trouble with UV, where the UV would be used on the DT itself, the parasite has a chance to find a host before going through the UV. I know that this aspect does not apply to the setup you are planning, which is why I think it might work. However, I have read that even when oversized, the UV sterilizers made for aquariums are just not powerful enough/don't have a long enough exposure time to effectively eradicate ich. If you can determine the actual power and exposure time needed, and can achieve that, it will probably work fairly well. Particularly when you take into account the relatively low likelihood of your inverts being contaminated with ich.

That being said, it won't be as safe as having a separate system. Also, keep in mind that other pests (brooklynella, flatworms, etc) may require different exposures and ich may or may not be the toughest, so unless ich is all you are worried about you might want to look into them too.

 

[Constantin]

ich is easy to kill when not in cyst form... other parasites should also be easy, as long as the dwell time inside the UV is sufficient, i wish i could find a sure info on what is sufficient....

Part of the problem with UVs is people trying to get a UV to kill everything in their DT when thats obviously not going to happen(you cant guarantee that all water is going to pass through it.

I think a long dwell time (50-100gph in a 500gph rated unit) will insure that everything will literally get burned to death as it will be x20-30 times the radiation needed to kill common bacteria.

 

[billsreef]

The problem you'll have with using a UV on an overflow is the combination of dirt in the water and air bubbles. The water needs some mechanical filtration before entering the UV, and needs to be free of all those pesky (UV light inhibiting) bubbles. Best bet is really a seperate QT for the corals. Besides, there are coral pests that make it wise to QT the corals for the sake of the corals

 

[wooden_reefer]

I think you have missed the original post...
I dont want to control Ich in DT - currently DT going fallow because of an small ich outbreak, but i moved all fish and am on week 6

All i was asking is for a QT setup for my corals - which are housed in a separate frag tank. My question was - If i set up the frag tank in such a way that all water going out(at about 100gph or less) goes through a UV filter, can i add corals or inverts to that tank without QT. In other words, all water going to DT from that tank will pass through a UV filter, so any possible micro organisms will die.
I made a picture

To eradicate ich from inverts, let them be fishless for eight weeks. Warm water helps a bit.

 

[Constantin]

The problem you'll have with using a UV on an overflow is the combination of dirt in the water and air bubbles. The water needs some mechanical filtration before entering the UV, and needs to be free of all those pesky (UV light inhibiting) bubbles. Best bet is really a seperate QT for the corals. Besides, there are coral pests that make it wise to QT the corals for the sake of the corals

The overflow has really low flow volume, and i will make a plumbing bubble trap... water is crystal clear, so dont see the need for mechanical filtration.

As far as i can tell, no one ever tried to set up an invert QT like the one i suggest?