Quarantine Setup Review

[zenom]

Just want to make sure my mind is on track for what I need to do with the quarantine tanks. I broke rule #1 of moving to fast and it just bit me in the A**. That being said today I went and setup tanks and built a stand.

Coral Quarantine:
400W MH light, I figured I would put this on for about 3-4 hours a day since its probably a lot of light for that little tank. I have a bag of Tropic Eden Reef Flakes I am going to put down a light base in the tank. I am going to fill it with saltwater at 1.026. Going to use a simple penguin filter and maybe a small power head to circulation.

- Still reading about wether this tank needs to "cycle" or not etc., any advice on this would be great.


Fish Quarantine:
Basic lighting, bought some different size PVC pipes. Salinity at about 1.020 and filter floss from my 165 gallon. Put fish in there, keep it going as much as needed.

- Need to read up on how to keep this thing cycled and going for when I get new fish or have an emergency.

Any help etc,. would be great as this is my first quarantine setup for either fish or corals.

Tank pr0n.

- Andy

 

[crissie]

If you can, reduce the MH lighting, that's a lot of light for most corals and will likely shock and/or bleach them.

Ideally the conditions in a quarantine tank should be the same, if not better, than your display tank.

 

[zenom]

If you can, reduce the MH lighting, that's a lot of light for most corals and will likely shock and/or bleach them.

Ideally the conditions in a quarantine tank should be the same, if not better, than your display tank.

The light is a good 18-20" above the tank, not sure if that matters, it was just what I had . What about reducing the lighting with it, ie., maybe 2-4 hours a day or something, until I get an LED light or similar (i have rapid led's in my 165) to replace the MH?

 

[crissie]

The light is a good 18-20" above the tank, not sure if that matters, it was just what I had . What about reducing the lighting with it, ie., maybe 2-4 hours a day or something, until I get an LED light or similar (i have rapid led's in my 165) to replace the MH?

I'm not sure to be honest, hopefully someone who knows more about MHs will come along, all I know it that mine has a 250w and It's about 18" above, still shocks some corals though.

I forgot to add on my last post, if you can keep the tank set up permanently then this is best, I ghost feed to maintain proper levels so it doesn't spike when a fish is put in, with a bare bottom it's easy to clean out the debris.

It's also good to have something for the fish to hide in/behind. Some rock maybe, some people suggest tunnel pipping or plant pots.

 

[ca1ore]

I never particularly liked the idea of compensating for high light intensity by truncating the photoperiod. On a 20L, a par38 LED bulb would likely suffice. Depending upon your planned approach for QT of corals - a couple of weeks for things like red bugs or 12 weeks to ensure no ich-hikers - you may find it necessary to add in some kind of circulation. Is also a good idea to toss a few bags of biomedia into you display sump as inoculation for future QT needs.

 

[zenom]

I never particularly liked the idea of compensating for high light intensity by truncating the photoperiod. On a 20L, a par38 LED bulb would likely suffice. Depending upon your planned approach for QT of corals - a couple of weeks for things like red bugs or 12 weeks to ensure no ich-hikers - you may find it necessary to add in some kind of circulation. Is also a good idea to toss a few bags of biomedia into you display sump as inoculation for future QT needs.

Would biomedia include the blue/white filter floss or is this something else? I am fine with adding some for use if its different.

Do you recommend keeping the QT up all the time or as needed and throw the biomedia/filter floss in the HOB filter when needed/ie., get new fish?

 

[zenom]

I never particularly liked the idea of compensating for high light intensity by truncating the photoperiod. On a 20L, a par38 LED bulb would likely suffice. Depending upon your planned approach for QT of corals - a couple of weeks for things like red bugs or 12 weeks to ensure no ich-hikers - you may find it necessary to add in some kind of circulation. Is also a good idea to toss a few bags of biomedia into you display sump as inoculation for future QT needs.

Also would the type of MH light make a difference? 6500K vs 20000K?

 

[drej424]

IME, it depends on the coral. 400 may be too much for softies or mushrooms. But acros, monti, or other hard corals will thrive. I don't know if the K makes a difference in growth. I think it's a matter of preference, but I'm not sure.

 

[zenom]

The tank I will be using the QT for is going to be mostly SPS/LPS and zoas.

 

[ca1ore]

Would biomedia include the blue/white filter floss or is this something else? I am fine with adding some for use if its different.

Do you recommend keeping the QT up all the time or as needed and throw the biomedia/filter floss in the HOB filter when needed/ie., get new fish?

I use the those bio rings (biomax?) and just put a few bags of it - may be a cup in each bag - into my main sump so I have them when I need them. I prefer to just fill my QTs as needed for new fish, that way I can be sure they are clear of any disease and I don't burn electricity unnecessarily.