Quarantine tank question

[GrimReefer555]

Well, it's too bad you took offense. But your saying your not convinced, then read the million threads about the issue. These reefers are probably the same ones posting the info, and then paraphrasing themselves, the stickies, or the million threads. You sound like the guy that posts info about how he didn't cycle his tank properly, had problems, posted a thread about it, then didn't want to listen. So annoying. The problem seems to be that you did it wrong from the start, and don't want to hear or believe how much work is involved in fixing it. Don't hide under the guise of a specific situation or not believing the stickies. Don't buy it for a second. I believe you read, but use the info instead of disbelieving it due to the inconvenience it causes you. Really!?

 

[dougdstecklein]

Thanks Breadman03. I read your ich sticky link from earlier and the tank transfer method sounds like the treatment method I will use.

 

[GrimReefer555]

Thanks Breadman03. I read your ich sticky link from earlier and the tank transfer method sounds like the treatment method I will use.

Hmmm... Thought you read the stickies during your "countless hours" of research. Pccchhhh. You'll be selling your system in six months or less, I'd bet on it.

 

[dougdstecklein]

Well, it's too bad you took offense. But your saying your not convinced, then read the million threads about the issue. These reefers are probably the same ones posting the info, and then paraphrasing themselves, the stickies, or the million threads. You sound like the guy that posts info about how he didn't cycle his tank properly, had problems, posted a thread about it, then didn't want to listen. So annoying. The problem seems to be that you did it wrong from the start, and don't want to hear or believe how much work is involved in fixing it. Don't hide under the guise of a specific situation or not believing the stickies. Don't buy it for a second. I believe you read, but use the info instead of disbelieving it due to the inconvenience it causes you. Really!?

What is your problem Grimreefer?
You have to understand, I am basically a Newby. You forget a lot in 7 years. I am excited to get fish in my tank and so are my 5 and 7 year old, so I rushed it and did things the wrong way. Yes, I needed a little extra push to convince me to do it the right way. I am now convinced. I had to come to terms with the fact that I am going to have to wait 20+ weeks to get a new fish.
Now go bother someone else.

 

[GrimReefer555]

What is your problem Grimreefer?
You have to understand, I am basically a Newby. You forget a lot in 7 years. I am excited to get fish in my tank and so are my 5 and 7 year old, so I rushed it and did things the wrong way. Yes, I needed a little extra push to convince me to do it the right way. I am now convinced. I had to come to terms with the fact that I am going to have to wait 20+ weeks to get a new fish.
Now go bother someone else.

I'm not trying to be a jerk. I get that your a second round newby, it's just agonizing to see the same threads over and over with questions repeatedly answered with the same info. If it's any consolation, here's some constructive input. You could get some fish in your tank sooner than you think, 20 weeks would drive us all mad. If you fallow your tank now, that'll start your 6 weeks, during which you could treat the anthia for a few weeks with the treatment of your choice, and if all goes well, add some fish with him in the QT for the duration of the fallow period. That'll get a decent batch in there in six weeks. Just make sure the anthia is all good before adding. +1 on SeaChem Prime, it'll make sure the lack of a full cycle doesn't kill your fish, as it detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. Be careful with copper, as you truly need a therapeutic level verified by a copper test kit. I treated with copper, and found low levels, as my water conditioner detoxified heavy metals. Not what you want with a copper tx. SeaChem prime does not do this, is what I use, and is a perfect product for your situation. Almost all other conditioners detoxify copper. Either way, GL

 

[Breadman03]

I'm not trying to be a jerk. I get that your a second round newby, it's just agonizing to see the same threads over and over with questions repeatedly answered with the same info. If it's any consolation, here's some constructive input. You could get some fish in your tank sooner than you think, 20 weeks would drive us all mad. If you fallow your tank now, that'll start your 6 weeks, during which you could treat the anthia for a few weeks with the treatment of your choice, and if all goes well, add some fish with him in the QT for the duration of the fallow period. That'll get a decent batch in there in six weeks. Just make sure the anthia is all good before adding. +1 on SeaChem Prime, it'll make sure the lack of a full cycle doesn't kill your fish, as it detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. Be careful with copper, as you truly need a therapeutic level verified by a copper test kit. I treated with copper, and found low levels, as my water conditioner detoxified heavy metals. Not what you want with a copper tx. SeaChem prime does not do this, is what I use, and is a perfect product for your situation. Almost all other conditioners detoxify copper. Either way, GL

I feel the same way, but try to remember that newbies probably can't navigate the forum as well as someone more involved. They don't know what terms to search for, and for many things, there are conflicting opinions.

Oh yeah, they also generate page views, which brings in the advertising revenue that keeps the lights on.

 

[Spyderturbo007]

I remember my first forum experience. Someone said to read the Stickies and I had to ask "What is a sticky".

 

[GrimReefer555]

I agree, and give him a little more leeway since he stated he had been out of the hobby for so long. I do, however, note that he has 130 posts, and based on that, I feel he has or should have the know how and/or ability to find the answer to the q himself. And yes, there are many conflicting opinions regarding many issues, but that didn't seem to be the issue today, as the thread was based on a question widely agreed on within the hobby. I do agree with you generally, and don't mean to be that guy, it's just frustrating. If he was actually reading the stickies, then yes, that's keeping the lights on. I just can't stand all the posts where it's obvious there was no genuine attempt to find the answer before asking for help. Those members are not generating as many views, none or few by researching, only views by people looking to help. I feel that's a waste of the privilege of access to the plethora of info compiled by millenniums of reefers and their experience. This is not a hobby for the lazy.

I feel the same way, but try to remember that newbies probably can't navigate the forum as well as someone more involved. They don't know what terms to search for, and for many things, there are conflicting opinions.

Oh yeah, they also generate page views, which brings in the advertising revenue that keeps the lights on.

 

[Silvergryphon]

Grim, stop being a dick. If you don't like the posts then ignore them or don't hang out in the New to the Hobby forum. There is no call for acting like a teenage flaming troll on here.

And remember, not everyone is forum-literate, especially since with the varous different forums set ups you see all over the place. Just because they can post, doesn't mean they know what the search for, how to filter the search results, etc.

 

[GrimReefer555]

Name calling, clever. Buzz off. I won't even acknowledge you or your comment any further. You are below me.

 

[asylumdown]

all I have to say is.. you have to fallow your tank due to ich and you've only got one fish? LUCKY! Lord I wish that was my situation when went through this process.

Analogy:
Catching, treating and QTing one fish is like learning how to play Mary Had a Little Lamb using the number keys on your phone. Catching, QTing, and treating 30 fish in an emergency situation with no cycled QT tank is like trying to play Flight of the Bumble Bee with an out of tune recorder. With your toes.

The solution is pretty simple. Two bare bottom QT tanks. With a single fish, two 5 gallon buckets will do. A tiny koralia power head, a pico sized heater, and a bucket of dirt cheap instant oean salt. Tank transfer method for 12 days (4 transfers total). The fish will react surprisingly well to this, I promise you. It will go back to behaving normally within an hour of each transfer, so long as you keep the temp and salinity matched. If you're using one powerhead and one heater, make sure you soak them in a concentrated bleach solution for a while, then rinse them really well before you put them in the new vessel. I find it's easier to just get two sets and let them dry out over night as it's just as effective as bleach. Make sure you get as little water from the tank you're transferring from in to the tank you're transferring to as humanly possible. Transfer on the morning of every third day. Use prime or amquel to keep ammonia in check, usually necessary the day before the transfer with a single fish that needs more than one feeding a day.

12 days later... you can consider that fish free from ich. I'd then get a very small tank (say 10 gallons), the smallest HOB filter you can find, and a 44 gallon plastic garbage can. I'd then mix up 44 gallons of salt water in the garbage can, and put the fish in the 10 gallon tank with a brand new, uncycled HOB filter. Test for ammonia every single day. As soon as the test starts to change colour, add enough prime to make it undetectable again then do a 50- 60% water change (you've got 44 gallons of change water. This should take 7 minutes if you set it up right and the 44 gallons will last weeks). After a few weeks, your 10 gallon QT will cycle, and you'll need to do fewer and fewer water changes. Leave your one fish in this small tank for 10-12 weeks to make sure ich is gone from your display tank, then put him back and observe to make sure there's no relapse.

During this fallow period buy:

2, 15 gallon tanks
A second koralia powerhead (if you didn't already have one)
a second heater capable of heating 15 gallons (if you didn't already have one)
super cheap lights for the 15 gallon tanks
a power bar with at least two timed outlets.
a 1 gallon bottle of prime.

Then - never put a fish in your display again without a minimum of a 12 day tank transfer protocol, and preferably 7 days of prazipro and a month of observation in a cycled QT tank again. Use the experience to teach your kids about patience, sacrifice, care, and the consequences of cutting corners.

"remember kids. When we get lazy, WE KILL NEMO".

 

[dougdstecklein]

Good info asylumdown! I had planned on using 5 gallon buckets for the TTM. I am in the process of setting up a QT with Biowheel filter. I have 2-450 gph koralias and 2- 300 watt heaters(hopefully this doesn't fry the fish).

I have learned a valuable lesson with this experience. It's much easier to do things right the 1st time.

 

[MrClam]

"remember kids. When we get lazy, WE KILL NEMO".

This made me laugh.

Im not sure how 300w heaters are going to do in 5g buckets. Might be worth buying smaller heaters, as they are generally pretty cheap. Thats some serious overkill, but again this is just my intuition.

 

[dougdstecklein]

I forgot that I calibrated my 300 watt heaters for a couple days in a 5 gallon bucket of top off water and the temperature stayed very steady.