Question about materials for a diy sump...

[WarEagleU1986]

Im wanting to build a sump for a 55 gallon tank. I cant find any tanks larger that 10 gallons that will fit under the stand. Could i simply just go buy 5 pieces of plexiglass allwith the desired dimensions and a few cans of silicone? Will this work ok. Im not trying to do anything too fancy as i am planning to upgrade when i move in May. I just want to be able to have an ATO

 

[billdogg]

silicone will not adhere to acrylic (plexiglass) so no, that idea won't work. How about a 20 long? I think they are the same width as a standard 10g, so maybe it would work?

 

[skeeter_ca]

Buy Weld-on cement. I like the thick stuff because it is very easy to work with. It is the only thing you should use on acrylic and you should have no problems. Building with acrylic is super easy and unless you are looking at building a show tank they come out pretty nice. The thin stuff and using needles and all that stuff is way harder than the thick stuff.

skeeter

 

[uncleof6]

Buy Weld-on cement. I like the thick stuff because it is very easy to work with. It is the only thing you should use on acrylic and you should have no problems. Building with acrylic is super easy and unless you are looking at building a show tank they come out pretty nice. The thin stuff and using needles and all that stuff is way harder than the thick stuff.

skeeter

However, the pins and needles method using weld-on 4 is the method recommended by the professionals. The pros also have negative comments concerning the use of weld-on 16 (the thick stuff.) As far as solvent cement that contains a significant amount of dissolved solids goes, weld-on 42 is a far superior product, however there are specific uses for it. More often than not, the right way is not going to be the easy way, and is seldom the least expensive way, however there will always be a cost involved in doing things the wrong way.

 

[skeeter_ca]

I have built many sumps. overflows, reservoirs using "the thick stuff". I would not build a tank with it because the seems look down right ugly compared to finished pro tanks. If it is just a sump for yourself it will be fine. I have no doubt the "42" is superior in some ways but with "16" you don't have to be as precise with the acrylic. It is gap filling to a point and the edges don't have to be sanded or routered to a fine finish. I usually just cut it with my saw and clean off the edges a little. And it is more than strong enough to hold up to sump use.

skeeter

 

[uncleof6]

I have built many sumps. overflows, reservoirs using "the thick stuff". I would not build a tank with it because the seems look down right ugly compared to finished pro tanks. If it is just a sump for yourself it will be fine. I have no doubt the "42" is superior in some ways but with "16" you don't have to be as precise with the acrylic. It is gap filling to a point and the edges don't have to be sanded or routered to a fine finish. I usually just cut it with my saw and clean off the edges a little. And it is more than strong enough to hold up to sump use.

skeeter

I mis-informed with my post: it is weld-on 40 not 42...

...Well, be that as it may, the advice to use weld-on 16 is anecdotal, and in direct contradiction to experienced and professional advice. To quote James directly:

"16 is utter trash to me, 4 is probably best for most, 40 is good if well practiced with it. #3 is fine if you do your job quickly, if you're not use to doing this quickly - then use 4 as previously mentioned. It won't give you much extra time, but the extra 30 seconds may help "

"Agreed on gap filling though, 40 is much better as a gap filler than 16 "

James is the resident authority on everything acrylic, it would seem to me that one should accept his word.

Having built more than a couple acrylic sumps (on insistence of the client, as glass is better suited to water pressure vessels,) my experience is that weld-on 16 is junk. Weld-on 4 should be the solvent of first choice. The only reason weld-on 16 is used is because it can be found (usually) at Home Depot.

 

[skeeter_ca]

Just letting the OP know that there are other options. From my "anecdotal" experience I have never had a joint fail, leak or have any problems with it. I am not saying it is the best product for the job. I agree with you on that but it is a lot easier to work with "In my opinion" and when used properly works well and does the job.

skeeter

 

[WarEagleU1986]

Thanks for all the info. Looking like its not gonna be quite as easy as i had hoped. I should just build a better stand but i am moving in may so im not trying to break this thing down before then.


Also...all of these solvents are reef safe?

 

[jamie1981]

To look at it simply, use the weld-on 16 in place of the silicone if you are using acrylic (plexi) and your good to go for a simple DIY sump. FYI the plexi form the big box stores is more than likely extruded which is terrible for fabrication. Best to find cast acrylic online. Yes it won't be as pretty as a properly done joint and yes I would not use it for a display tank but for a small sump inside a stand it won't matter. I’ve used it plenty of times as have thousands of others and never had any issues. and yes it completely reef safe once it's cured.

 

[PhantomAce]

I found a used acrylic 20g, bought some weld-on 16 (not at Lowe's, they DON'T carry it, had to go to an acrylic shop), and made my own baffles. Glue the baffles in, and then run a bead along the edges 48 hours later to make sure it seals sufficiently.
Not pretty, but plenty strong, really easy, and sufficiently inexpensive.
YMMV though...

 

[Mustang67]

I am looking to build my own sump for a new 300 Gallon Deep Dimensions reef tank with dual over flows.

Tank: 72x36x27
Monterey Stand Interior: L x W x H: 68.250 32.875 25.50.

Thinking of a large sump, about 100 Gallons say 48x25x20 this should give me enough room for anything I would like to add. Also considering installing some rails in the stand and on the sump so I can roll it in or out for any maintenance. I have some ideas and will need to plan this out well but I think I know just what to do.

For sump materials I have found a ton of info, some say use cast acrylic and some say just take a trip to home depot or lowes. One used 4x Sheets of .220 24”x48” Acrylic.

Should I use cast (http://www.ecomplastics.com/plexiglass-acrylic-sheet-cast)
or is Acrylic from some place like Lowes/Home Depot just fine?

 

[GrampaDon]

20 Long is 12.5in wide. And 10g is 10.25in wide.
I dont trust a 55g stand. Because they are very narrow in relation to height. And I feel like they are a tipping hazard. So if it were me. I would build a better stand that is closer to 16-18in wide and then will very easy hold the 20 long tank. [or a 30 long if you can find one]

Or just use glass n silicone to build one custom to your current stand.

 

[RobinsonFam1]

rubbermaid type containers work too. i put a pair of them under a 29 gal tank tied together with a bulkhead. worked perfect. cost was less than $20 too. 29 gal is same 13" deep as well. pain in the but size