Question on Mean Well 3-1 dimming

[bmichaelb]

I'm looking at the specs of a Mean Well HLG-240H-C1050AB, and it says "Dimming with 1-10Vdc 10V PWM resistance; Io adjustable through built-in potentiometer". If I wanted to run at 1000mA but still have the option of 0-10V PWM via an Arduino, can I just set the internal pot to 1000mA and then that sets the maximum the Arduino can dim up to? My guess is yes, but I just want to make sure. I guess I could just go with 1050mA, but not sure how much that increases the forward voltage when trying to add everything up for selecting the proper driver.

Thanks.

 

[kharmaguru]

I'm looking at the specs of a Mean Well HLG-240H-C1050AB, and it says "Dimming with 1-10Vdc 10V PWM resistance; Io adjustable through built-in potentiometer". If I wanted to run at 1000mA but still have the option of 0-10V PWM via an Arduino, can I just set the internal pot to 1000mA and then that sets the maximum the Arduino can dim up to? My guess is yes, but I just want to make sure. I guess I could just go with 1050mA, but not sure how much that increases the forward voltage when trying to add everything up for selecting the proper driver.

Thanks.

Yes, however the Arduino is only 5v PWM (and I assume that would translate to 50% output at max) so it wouldn't matter unless you've added a transistor circuit to get 10v PWM.

Not sure what you mean about selecting a driver? The meanwell is the driver (constant current) and the forward voltage is determined by the leds.

 

[oreo57]

I'm looking at the specs of a Mean Well HLG-240H-C1050AB, and it says "Dimming with 1-10Vdc 10V PWM resistance; Io adjustable through built-in potentiometer". If I wanted to run at 1000mA but still have the option of 0-10V PWM via an Arduino, can I just set the internal pot to 1000mA and then that sets the maximum the Arduino can dim up to? My guess is yes, but I just want to make sure. I guess I could just go with 1050mA, but not sure how much that increases the forward voltage when trying to add everything up for selecting the proper driver.

Thanks.

You need to convert the pwm 5v (3.3v) to an analog 10v.
There are boards out there that do this.
Stevesled, eBay, Amazon.
Analog dimming or converting pwm to 10 is not my forte. Not sure if one needs to design based on pwm frequency. Pwm voltage for sure.

Since everything is dynamic (bin, heat,) you actually don't know the real voltage of your array/ string at say 1000mA until it's built.
Best idea would be to not try to " perfect match" the driver.

If you calculate 36v @ 1000mA don't get a max 36v driver. Get like a 48v max driver

Second recommendation, don't set current to the " max rated" level.
Like if the led is a" 3w class" run it around 2w.
2w is about what most black boxes run at.
Yea if you cool w liq.N well then go for it.
Quality name brand leds are getting more flexible regarding heat tolerance but pretty sure the " generic" ones aren't.

 

[bmichaelb]

Yes, however the Arduino is only 5v PWM (and I assume that would translate to 50% output at max) so it wouldn't matter unless you've added a transistor circuit to get 10v PWM.

Not sure what you mean about selecting a driver? The meanwell is the driver (constant current) and the forward voltage is determined by the leds.

Thanks, yeah I'm planning on either boosting a 5v source that feeds the Arduino, or buck a 12v that feeds the fans using an LM7810, and then another LM7805 for 5v to feed the Arduino. Then use an 2n2222a transistor that was recommended in the Typhon thread. I still got a bunch from way back then. But as for the forward voltage, I realize the Mean Well is both driver and power supply, but after adding up the voltage for all diodes on the string, obviously I can't go over what the driver outputs. But then I guess 50mA extra isn't really going to make much of a difference in the voltage per diode.

 

[bmichaelb]

You need to convert the pwm 5v (3.3v) to an analog 10v.
There are boards out there that do this.
Stevesled, eBay, Amazon.
Analog dimming or converting pwm to 10 is not my forte. Not sure if one needs to design based on pwm frequency. Voltage for sure.

Since everything is dynamic (bin, heat,) you actually don't know the real voltage of your array/ string at say 1000mA until it's built.
Best idea would be to not try to " perfect match" the driver.

If you calculate 36v @ 1000mA don't get a max 36v driver. Get like a 48v max driver

Second recommendation, don't set current to the " max rated" level.
Like if the led is a" 3w class" run it around 2w.
2w is about what most black boxes run at.
Yea if you cool w liq.N well then go for it.
Quality name brand leds are getting more flexible regarding heat tolerance but pretty sure the " generic" ones aren't.

Cheers... I was still typing as you posted. I'm probably going to use a 12v source for the fans, then the 5v and 10v voltage regulators for the Arduino and the Mean Well dimming. And thanks for the advice on the voltage requirement. At most I was only 2v under a certain driver I was looking at, but I'll look at some more.

 

[oreo57]

Cheers... I was still typing as you posted. I'm probably going to use a 12v source for the fans, then the 5v and 10v voltage regulators for the Arduino and the Mean Well dimming. And thanks for the advice on the voltage requirement. At most I was only 2v under a certain driver I was looking at, but I'll look at some more.

Amazon.com

Just use these to convert your gpio pwm to a 10v analog signal:

Arduino Base pwm frequency is around 500Hz and 5v I believe.

Module Working voltage: 15-30V DC (power requirement of power supply: >100MA), PWM signal receiving frequency range: 100HZ-3KHZ (1-3KHZ is recommended). Compact size, Model: 3.3P-5V, Input 0-100% PWM signal of 3.3V level, output 0-10V voltage, Insert the jump pin at 5V, the module is easy to use in different places.

Use a24v wall wart and 24v fans or buck the 24v. Or whatever ps you use in the 15-30v needed for the board.

No need to reinvent the wheel ..

 

[bmichaelb]

Amazon.com

Just use these to convert your gpio pwm to a 10v analog signal:

Arduino Base pwm frequency is around 500Hz and 5v I believe.

No need to reinvent the wheel ..

That's an idea, but it's $10 in Canada, and it only has a 10mA output, so it would only be for the drivers. I still need 12v for the fans, and 5v for the Arduino. LM7805's are only $1 CAD, and LM7810's are $1.75 CAD... plus a few capacitors, and then the transistors. But I already have a bunch of each from previous projects, including the Typhon project from 2012. I built my own Arduino Uno on breadboard. I just need a 12v supply. Those are cheap enough, and the circuit's pretty simple.

IC REGULATOR 7805 +5V 1A

7805 5V 1AMP DC REGULATOR POSTIVE

leeselectronic.com

IC, REGULATOR, L7810CV, +10V, 1A

LM7810 10V 1AMP. DC REGULATOR POSITIVE

leeselectronic.com

 

[oreo57]

A 10 pack is$17.31..

Amazon.ca

I'm more of a tinker toy (module) type guy than bare circuits..

Funny you mentioned the Typhon. Thats what I used "back in the daY" and sent me on my personal rabbit hole of using it to dim ac/dc Meanwells.
The 10V PWM on board didn't work as advertised.
Soo decided to try to double and smooth the 5V PWM using this cool ic and some Zener diodes.
Got to about 9.6V analog (zener losses) BUT very little currrent. Not enough to dim the Meanwell

Switched to Meanwell Ldd-hw's a power supply and never looked back.
Since this was for fw I didn't need 100's of watts...

 

[bmichaelb]

A 10 pack is$17.31..

Amazon.ca

I'm more of a tinker toy (module) type guy than bare circuits..

Looking at the link you just provided for the 10 pack, it inputs a wider range, so I automatically thought, yes, I'd only need a 5v source for everything then. Just use the stock 5v for the Arduino, then use 1 of the devices for +10v for the drivers, and another for +12v for the fans. But then I look at the "electrical parameters" at the bottom of the page...

Electrical Parameters:Input: DC 3.2V to 35V (input voltage must be more than the output voltage can not be higher than boost 1.25v.)

Input must be higher than output, and you can only boost +1.25v. Unless I'm reading that wrong? I've got a couple 'USB 5V to DC 12V' converters, but they require 5v @ 2a to output 12v @ 700mA. I'm using 4x Noctua Chromax 120mm fans, at 0.05A (50mA), so for all 4 fans, it would be 200mA. I could then use an LM7810 to buck down to 10v for the driver. And I'm assuming the Arduino with an LCD doesn't use much either. I have 3 of the units already, and a 4th would only be $12 + tax.

Amazon.ca

edit: btw... I only got into electronics and soldering by accident back in 2003. I used to dabble in satellite receivers, and after the first month of paying a dealer, he vanished... so I was forced to learn on my own. Started making simple circuits from forums, then progressed to reading schematics and building chit. I was hooked, and have been a DIY'er ever since.

 

[bmichaelb]

Here's actually a driver board I made back in 2012 during the Typhon thread. 7 channels, with adjustable current.

I planned on using 4x Mean Well S-150-24 power supplies, but then I realized that the draw from the wall would be 12.8A. That's at the maximum, and I wouldn't have maxed out the power supplies, but still, that's more than my 10A breaker would handle. It was a basement suite... I couldn't just get a 15A installed. I'm now slowly unsoldering everything. So much fun.

 

[bmichaelb]

Actually, I could get away with just 2x 5v to 12v boosters. If it outputs 12v @ 700mA, and the 4 fans use a total of 12v @ 200mA, and the Mean Well's 0-10v dimming requires 10v @ 100mA, x4 drivers, then that's another 400mA for a total of 12v @ 600mA. Not sure how much current the LM7810 10v regulator uses, but at ~700mA, the device probably gets quite warm anyway, so even though 1 would be probably be enough, 2 of them would be best.

 

[oreo57]

All the like kind I used it just means if you use 35V max output is 33.5V.
So using a 24V ps and 3 of those.. 1 @ 12v, 1 @ 5V one @10v
The Chinglish is confusing..

On a side note this is the IC I used to double the 5V pwm on the Typhon to 9.6V
RC circuit to smooth.
Like I said "I" didn't know how to boost the current (which I assume was limited by the Typhon) without adding another power supply.
My HOPE (dashed) was to convert without adding another wall wart.

Those drivers would be classified as "linear" correct. MOSFET switched.
I couldn't use linear because some of the designs had like 10v one channel, 36v another and I had a bunch of 48v ps's..
Dropping from 48 to 10v I assumed would mean a LOT of heat and of course waste.
Not an issue w/ switching buck drivers.
There are plenty of switching driver IC's out there.

Dimmed/programmed by direct 5v pwm from Aduino or Typhon, or Hurricane, or Storm..
Many just build the "sample circuit" shown on the driver ic data sheets..

I hear ya about the fun and advantages (do it my way) of diy, just soo many cheap tinker toys out there..
And one can tap into the creatives..
Like this person who designed and programmed a controller/driver board to my specs..

Wireless CC LED Driver 12 - 48v by ALab Technology on Tindie

Hight Power, wide voltage, step-down led driver.

www.tindie.com

Personally its the software that's the most annoying..
Same $50.. 5 drivers and a "wireless typhon" built in...

But, again, I didn't need to push 500w of lights. Changes the playing field.
Worrying about tripping a breaker rarely ever came up.

I'm not sure how one "does" the math to calculate the draw at the outlet.
This little discussion implies your "3A" fr an lrs 150-24 isn't really correct?
6.5 x 24/ 110 x .89 X pF
156/97.9 x.9(guess atm) =1.77A not 3..

Input power rating on power supplies - how does max amp draw apply to 220V

If a power supply says the input power is 100-240V, ~1.5A, I'm assuming that the "1.5A" draw would be at 100V, not at 240V, right? I.e. would the total max watts be 150W regardless of the input vo...

electronics.stackexchange.com

 

[bmichaelb]

And I just found the 5v supply... the official Raspberry Pi 5 27W USB-C supply...

Output: 5.1V, 5A; 9V, 3A; 12V, 2.25A; 15V, 1.8A (Power Delivery)
USB Type-C (USB-C), 1.2m 17AWG cable

Then have a few USB-C breakout boards already...

Amazon.ca

That one supply should do all fans, drivers, and Arduino. It's interesting that it does 5.1v as well as 12v. Curious if I can simply feed the Arduino 5v, then tap into the main 5v for another 12v @ 200mA, plus the 10v @ 400mA through the LM7810 regulator. I'm sure there's enough of the original 5.1V @ 5A to power the Arduino, LCD screen and however much power the PWM pins require.

 

[bmichaelb]

All the like kind I used it just means if you use 35V max output is 33.5V.
So using a 24V ps and 3 of those.. 1 @ 12v, 1 @ 5V one @10v
The Chinglish is confusing..

On a side note this is the IC I used to double the 5V pwm on the Typhon to 9.6V
RC circuit to smooth.
Like I said "I" didn't know how to boost the current (which I assume was limited by the Typhon) without adding another power supply.
My HOPE (dashed) was to convert without adding another wall wart.

View attachment 32409427

Those drivers would be classified as "linear" correct. MOSFET switched.
I couldn't use linear because some of the designs had like 10v one channel, 36v another and I had a bunch of 48v ps's..
Dropping from 48 to 10v I assumed would mean a LOT of heat and of course waste.
Not an issue w/ switching buck drivers.
There are plenty of switching driver IC's out there.

Dimmed/programmed by direct 5v pwm from Aduino or Typhon, or Hurricane, or Storm..
Many just build the "sample circuit" shown on the driver ic data sheets..

I hear ya about the fun and advantages (do it my way) of diy, just soo many cheap tinker toys out there..
And one can tap into the creatives..
Like this person who designed and programmed a controller/driver board to my specs..

Wireless CC LED Driver 12 - 48v by ALab Technology on Tindie

Hight Power, wide voltage, step-down led driver.

www.tindie.com

Personally its the software that's the most annoying..
Same $50.. 5 drivers and a "wireless typhon" built in...

But, again, I didn't need to push 500w of lights. Changes the playing field.
Worrying about tripping a breaker rarely ever came up.

I'm not sure how one "does" the math to calculate the draw at the outlet.
This little discussion implies your "3A" fr an lrs 150-24 isn't really correct?
6.5 x 24/ 110 x .89 X pF
156/97.9 x.9(guess atm) =1.77A not 3..

View attachment 32409429

Input power rating on power supplies - how does max amp draw apply to 220V

If a power supply says the input power is 100-240V, ~1.5A, I'm assuming that the "1.5A" draw would be at 100V, not at 240V, right? I.e. would the total max watts be 150W regardless of the input vo...

electronics.stackexchange.com

The fixture was for gardening, and it was 360W if I remember correctly. So I wouldn't have used the entire power supply, but I did spec it out to be as less wasteful as possible... the power supplies were switching. but still, 3.2A for 150W is pretty high, considering the HLG-120H-C1050B is 155W at only 1.6A. It's because I was so darn stubborn in DIY'ing my own drivers, as well as having 7 channels that dimmed separate to one another. I wanted to represent an actual sunrise and sunset by color/wavelength, sunrise starting with royal blues, then sunset ending with far reds. Or something to that effect. But now, I'm just using 4 channels... Warm white, Cool White, Photo Red 660, and Far Red 720. The whites carry enough of what I'm leaving out already, so it's a no-brainer. And so much simpler.

I hear ya on the programming... the satellite hobby forced me into that fairly quick as well. Learned how to set up compiling environments for DOS executables to run emulation, then started tinkering in the codes of the emulator... taught myself to save the current card file, send the refresh card command which would wipe any ppv's and refresh the ppv amount in your wallet, then restart the program... all in the blink of an eye, without the receiver ever knowing. Then I got into linux, and everything changed... compiling sources was pretty common. Then fast forward to the Typhon thread, and I learned Arduino code... or at least how to tinker with someone else's script. I noticed a few grow scripts out there based directly on Typhon... even one that deleted the top section where it says who created it. Not cool. Also... I 'had' finished scripts in that thread (user Spuzzum), but then my hard drive died, and coming back to that thread to see if I can download it... the hosting site that had them deleted them after so long I guess. I'm really bummed over that... lol. Anybody happen to have a copy?

 

[oreo57]

Are you looking for Der Willies orig. Typhon firmware?.
Or similar?

O

Post in thread 'Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?'

Nov 29, 2012

Which version of Arduino IDE should I use to compile the code?

The original Typhon firmware was written in Arduino 18. It will compile properly using any version up to Arduino 23.

• O2Surplus

See 1145

 

[bmichaelb]

Are you looking for Der Willies orig. Typhon firmware?.
Or similar?

O

Post in thread 'Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?'

Nov 29, 2012

Which version of Arduino IDE should I use to compile the code?

The original Typhon firmware was written in Arduino 18. It will compile properly using any version up to Arduino 23.

• O2Surplus

See 1145

Thanks, but I already have his original... grabbed it a few weeks ago from the old forum. I'm talking about a few versions I shared after working in the ADC buttons and Deuligne LCD routine to free up more PWM pins, and heatsink temperature stuffs that PWM'd the fans according to the temps, as well as adding submenus to the menu structure, and I think I also had a 'previous' button worked in as I was tired of having to click through all over again if I accidentally clicked 1 too many times. But, it turns out I can't even compile the original script as the EEPROMVar.h file needed is no longer at the link provided at the top of the script. Arduino playground archived a bunch of stuff, and it got deleted. There's now the EEPROMEx library that has a newer EEPROMVar.h, but it errors out like crazy, and I'm not smart enough to fix it. But the script I found on a grow forum works with the newer EEPROMVar.h, and he worked in the Adafruit LCD library that has the same button routines, and frees up more PWM pins like the Deuligne. I was able to find some of my versions that I posted split into multi-post format, but the finished scripts that I uploaded to mediafire or whatever it was called are no more. I'm just waiting for my Adafruit LCD arriving on Tuesday to start playing with his script to continue modifying it.

Edit: Forgot to mention... I was able to grab stuff that a few members posted some code to help me along the way while working in the temperature stuffs, it's just a matter of working it into this guy's modified version. For the most part it's the same script, but there are a few differences.