My salifert kit reads 0. I know that doesn't mean much but I don't have a hanna meter. I try to watch my corals and I change my GFO when my SPS look darker brown or algae begins to grow on my glass more quickly. I almost bleached a few frags when I added too much GFO a while back, so I change/add GFO more slowly now.
Radium... why don't you make 250w DE bulbs?
- Thread starter Chyendra
- Start date
agsansoo
Premium Member
Toadally
New member
returnofsid
New member
Before making any lighting changes, I'd invest in more flow and a decent skimmer.
At one time, in a 75, I had great water quality, according to regular testing. A friend of mine sold me an inexpensive skimmer, that wasn't great, but was better than the one I was running. A month after upgrading skimmers, my coral color started to improve, remarkably. Prior to this, I was blaming the lack of coloration on my choice to go with T5 lighting, instead of MH. The problem wasn't lighting at all, it was my crappy skimmer. By the way, I hate to break it to you, but the skimmer in your signature falls into the category of "crappy skimmers."
At one time, in a 75, I had great water quality, according to regular testing. A friend of mine sold me an inexpensive skimmer, that wasn't great, but was better than the one I was running. A month after upgrading skimmers, my coral color started to improve, remarkably. Prior to this, I was blaming the lack of coloration on my choice to go with T5 lighting, instead of MH. The problem wasn't lighting at all, it was my crappy skimmer. By the way, I hate to break it to you, but the skimmer in your signature falls into the category of "crappy skimmers."
+1
I don't know squat about MH, but you definitely need a skimmer upgrade first and foremost. Flow is a close second, extremely close. Thes two things are very important, both for growth, color, and general health. I'm sure your lighting is adequate enough for now. Skimmer and flow upgrades should definitely take precedence here.
allsps40
New member
I run no supplement lighting, only the 20k 250w. As far as skimmers go mine is a NW110 modded and is over rated for my setup. It was an upgrade from a SS65. The AquaC is a crap skimmer for sure you need to upgrade that, but I dont think that is your problem. As I said I have the same issue and I have a good skimmer, not great but good. I would like to get the new NWB110 or maybe the NWB150 may be a bit to much. But I plan to get a larger tank so another skimmer at this point seems like a waste.
I just added my sump this winter, so I really don't want to have to re-do it to accommodate a new skimmer. My sump is only 10 gallons so I imagine it will be a chore to find a decent skimmer that will fit in a 10 gallon sump... my largest compartment (currently my fuge) only has a 8"x10" footprint
I was using a reeflux 12k 150w before I switched to the 250w system. The first bulb I used with the 250w was a noname 20k that I assumed was old (colors weren't any good under the 20k either), so I quickly switched it out for the 14k pheonix that I currently have, it's been running for about 2.5 months.
I was using a reeflux 12k 150w before I switched to the 250w system. The first bulb I used with the 250w was a noname 20k that I assumed was old (colors weren't any good under the 20k either), so I quickly switched it out for the 14k pheonix that I currently have, it's been running for about 2.5 months.
lolgranny
The DQ King
Im not defending them im just saying they work... I personally have no issue with coral colors or growth. The blue bulbs you see are over 1year old 65w PC's. I feel they do NOTHING so i dont bother changing them.
All the corals have been in the tank for about 3months now, and have only grown more. They are all keeping there colors very well. Im dosing nothing. Doing 20% water changes (10g) every 2 weeks. Skimmer = NAC-6, Change the filter sock every 3 days, feed the fish pellets every other day once a day, and feed frozen usually once a week. I also add 1ml of roti feast/ oyster feast 2-3x's a week. Tank has been up since Feb of 10.
Frick
AZ FRAG President
I didn't see a Ca Reactor on your list of equipment. A reactor will help with coral growth but if it is set on a controller then it really pays off for keeping you parameters stable. And IMO that is the best thing to make your sticks shiny.
I run a 150 PHX and a 400 Raid on 2 different tanks and both have nice looking SPS.
I run a 150 PHX and a 400 Raid on 2 different tanks and both have nice looking SPS.
Beautiful reef Lolgranny! Thanks for shearing
I use a kalk drip to keep my Alk & Ph stable, and I have two-part on hand to supplement as needed. So far, kalk has been meeting all of my calcium needs. I've struggled with low ph so I'm hesitant to exacerbate the problem by adding a ca reactor. kalk dripping has helped raise my ph alot.
I use a kalk drip to keep my Alk & Ph stable, and I have two-part on hand to supplement as needed. So far, kalk has been meeting all of my calcium needs. I've struggled with low ph so I'm hesitant to exacerbate the problem by adding a ca reactor. kalk dripping has helped raise my ph alot.
daveonbass
New member
I'm going to do a 10g sump as well...and I will be centering it around the skimmer I'm getting: a SWC 120 cone. it's foot print is 7.25" x 6" and it's 18" tall.
Again you may need to adjust your sump, but it's a nice small skimmer that I'm TOLD works very well for the foot print.
Also I would agree with frank that a little blue supplimental lighting may help with the color...MAY help. But I run a ton of blue...haha.
Again you may need to adjust your sump, but it's a nice small skimmer that I'm TOLD works very well for the foot print.
Also I would agree with frank that a little blue supplimental lighting may help with the color...MAY help. But I run a ton of blue...haha.
DarkXerox
New member
Neuco/Coralvue is releasing a 20k bulb that supposedly has coloration near to the radium 20k. I have one on preorder that I'll try once it is in.
Previously I've had 14k phoenixs on my tank for about 5 years and generally was happy with the growth, but never really got the kind of color I wanted, especially out of reds. It was on a Hamilton E-ballast, but I didn't get the washed out blue color that a lot of people see.
Here's a pic from my tank with 1x250w DE Phoenix and 2x65w Actinic 03's:
Previously I've had 14k phoenixs on my tank for about 5 years and generally was happy with the growth, but never really got the kind of color I wanted, especially out of reds. It was on a Hamilton E-ballast, but I didn't get the washed out blue color that a lot of people see.
Here's a pic from my tank with 1x250w DE Phoenix and 2x65w Actinic 03's:
I thought I would provide an update. Here are some changes that I've made.
1. Stabilized my alkalinity around 9.0-9.2dkh by automating my kalk dosing. My Alk and calcium needs are beginning to become more than my kalk dosing can handle so I'm tuning in a two part dosing system right now. Stabilizing my Alk has definitely encouraged growth in my SPS and better color on the tips of my acros.
2. increased flow by adding an MP10 to the display. I think this increased growth, but I'm not sure this has helped with color much.
3. Increased PAR by replacing my Pheonix 14k with a Giesemann 12.5K and added 2x24w ATI blue plus bulbs to my canopy. It took 3 months to acclimate the corals to the new lights with out losing anything to bleaching, so I know I have more PAR then I used to. I can definitely see an improvement in my coloration after adding the addition lighting.
Here's an updated pic from a couple weeks ago, and I'll try to get some pics of individual corals tomorrow.
1. Stabilized my alkalinity around 9.0-9.2dkh by automating my kalk dosing. My Alk and calcium needs are beginning to become more than my kalk dosing can handle so I'm tuning in a two part dosing system right now. Stabilizing my Alk has definitely encouraged growth in my SPS and better color on the tips of my acros.
2. increased flow by adding an MP10 to the display. I think this increased growth, but I'm not sure this has helped with color much.
3. Increased PAR by replacing my Pheonix 14k with a Giesemann 12.5K and added 2x24w ATI blue plus bulbs to my canopy. It took 3 months to acclimate the corals to the new lights with out losing anything to bleaching, so I know I have more PAR then I used to. I can definitely see an improvement in my coloration after adding the addition lighting.
Here's an updated pic from a couple weeks ago, and I'll try to get some pics of individual corals tomorrow.
Xm 20k bulbs have half the par of a Phoenix bulb and last roughly half as long and cost more.
Radium and Phoenix bulbs have the same spectral plot other than the radium having a smidge more at 420nm. If you want the radium look just add a little true actinic to the mix (not blue plus, don't use these with phoenix bulbs).
Last edited:
I thought I would provide an update. Here are some changes that I've made.
1. Stabilized my alkalinity around 9.0-9.2dkh by automating my kalk dosing. My Alk and calcium needs are beginning to become more than my kalk dosing can handle so I'm tuning in a two part dosing system right now. Stabilizing my Alk has definitely encouraged growth in my SPS and better color on the tips of my acros.
2. increased flow by adding an MP10 to the display. I think this increased growth, but I'm not sure this has helped with color much.
3. Increased PAR by replacing my Pheonix 14k with a Giesemann 12.5K and added 2x24w ATI blue plus bulbs to my canopy. It took 3 months to acclimate the corals to the new lights with out losing anything to bleaching, so I know I have more PAR then I used to. I can definitely see an improvement in my coloration after adding the addition lighting.
Here's an updated pic from a couple weeks ago, and I'll try to get some pics of individual corals tomorrow.
Sanjay's numbers aren't real clear here as he lists two different 13k bulbs with different par but it looks like the Phoenix beats all Giesmann bulbs but a normal 13k that isn't marked mega chrome (oddly enough it beats the 10k). He does not list a 12.5 bulb. In any case I would say you did not upgrade the par on the MH.
Adding two blue plus bulbs is just like adding two daylight bulbs. They have similar par.
Also the Giesmann bulbs have a ton of actinic (Phoenix has very little) but little 450 (Phoenix is nearly all 450nm). Blue plus bulbs are pure 450nm to make up for what the Giesmann lacks.
