Randy's 180G Reef-Photo Journal

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rdmpe

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Well, I finally decided to ditch the freshwater tanks and get one good sized saltwater tank. I started out planning to do FOWLR while buying equipment with a reef tank in mind. However, I'm now planning to just work slowly (oh so slowly) toward a reef tank without getting loaded up on fish to start.

I bought a used 180g tank, but then decided that it was just too beat up and scratched to live with. So I decided on a new 180g. You can read all about my experience with www.GlassCages.com and see lots of detailed pictures of the tank here http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=627299 . Or in summary, a very positive experience and an excellent value IMO.

So I finally got this tank home. I think it must weigh 300 lbs. It seemed like the van was leaning toward the side that the tank was on.

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The tank was built on 7/2/05 and I had it in my garage on 7/9/05. So I have to wait another two weeks or so before I can put water in it. I think it will be longer than that before I am ready for water...

My father is pretty good at woodworking and built me a nice rock solid stand. It is made from 3/4" oak veneer plywood, all nailed and glued. The top is a nice piece of 11-ply hardwood plywood that I picked up at Lowes for $30. They gave it to me cheap because it had some cosmetic damage that I didn't care about. That 11-ply is really nice and stiff. I also bought the required 3/4" styrofoam for under the tank.

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So now I am figuring out where I need to cut holes in the top of the stand for the plumbing. What I have found is that a couple of my holes that are very close to the tank edge are going to also be very close to the inside surface of the stand wall. I think I MIGHT be able to get the bulkheads installed without too bad of a conflict, but it may end up being sort of a PITA.

Another thing I'm wondering about is how the heck I'm going to get the bulkheads on when the bulkhead nuts are way up inside a hole through all of that plywood and styrofoam. I don't want to cut the holes in the stand top too large, but I'm going to need to get hold of the bulkhead nut with a wrench or something right? What do people use to tighten the bulkheads up? I assume hand tight is not sufficient! So here's what I'm looking at for the holes...

There are six holes total. Two are at the far end opposite the overflow. They will be for 1.5" bulkheads to run a closed loop. Here is the overflow area with the bulkhead nuts sitting at the hole locations. The large ones are for 1.5" bulkheads, the smaller ones are for 1" bulkheads.

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Here is a picture of the size if the bulkhead nuts, and the larger size showing the minimum space I think I need around the bulkheads. At this point I'm thinking I'll probably cut this whole area out in a trapezoidal shape, but haven't decided for sure yet. There just isn't really enough space for any wood to be left between the holes... I don't really like having that weak spot in the stand, but I think it will be OK. The tank is heavily reinforced around the overflow area, so that also makes me feel better about it. If you look closely, you can see that there is a line along the end of the stand at about 3/4" in. The smaller bulkhead nut circle is just hitting that line. That is showing that the bulkhead nuts are going to be slightly conflicting with the wall of the tank stand. I'm probably going to have to do some careful "adjusting" with the sawzall hehe...

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I've also been working on collecting other equipment that I'll need. I picked up a used AquaC EV-180 with a Mag 7 for a great price. Also picked up a pinpoint salinity monitor and a milwaukee ph monitor. I have a couple of eheim 2213 canister filters that I'm going to make into a calcium reactor. I already have the co2 equipment from my homebrewing days. My next purchase will probably be an RO/DI unit, and eventually lights. I'm currently torn between the Maristar 250w mh w/T5 and the Tek fixtures (two of the 839w fixtures)... Still lots of research to do there.

So that's where I'm at right now. Next step is to get the top of the stand cut, get the tank on the stand with the bulkheads in and plugged, and get some water in this puppy. I'll be doing the first water test in the garage, hopefully there will not be any problems!!
 
Here is a diagram of the holes I have drilled in the tank. Some have shifted slightly to clear the eurobracing, but this is the general config. I think it leaves me plenty of flow potential. I plan to do a closed loop with the holes that are not in the bulkhead. I'll plumb a manifold under the sand I think...
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Tank and stand look nice. About cutting the top, I would just cut out that square around the bulkhead holes. You really don't need the plywood for weight support, that all rests on the edges. My stand also has a plywood top and it makes it easier if you have a problem to work on the bulkheads if the hole is bigger especially once you fill the bottom up with equipment like your sump.
 
Tank looks really good...

My only question is putting a manifold under the sand. Would it be a good idea to do this? I'm wondering about stirring up nutrients and gasses that are stored and created in the sand.
Even if stirring up wasn't an issue wouldn't that just defeat the whole bio. filter process.

just curious!
 
Hey guys and thanks for the comments! I'll be cutting the stand for the plumbing today, and with any luck will get the tank moved over to the stand and get some water in it.

The manifold will go around the edge of the tank under the sand, and will have tees at some interval around the loop. The tees will have locline to bring the flow nozzles up several inches above the top of the DSB. The nozzles will be slanted upward away from the sand so hopefully it will not stir the sand too much. I don't think it will have any real impact on the DSB performance, at least that's what I'm hoping.

I'm doing an open top, so I don't want to do a manifold around the top. Another benefit of having the flow directed somewhat upward is it may help keep detritus in the water column where it will make it's way to the sump/skimmer.
 
I should of probably guessed that you would have it extended above the DSB! I'm glad I asked though, because I was thinking of doing something very similar. You've given me a few good ideas... Good Luck!
 
Well, didn't get as much done today as I'd hoped (isn't that always the case). But I did get the holes cut in the top of the stand, and cut the styrofoam to fit. So the stand is ready for the tank now. I'll have to round up some of the neighbors to help me move this beast onto the stand tomorrow evening...
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never seen anyone do a manifold on the bottom of the tank before. wonder how that will work. how are you going to incorporate the manifold with your rock work so they wont interfere with each other? would love to see the pics. keep us posted.
 
I've seen a few pictures of bottom manifolds. Maybe I'll try to dig some up. As for how it will work with the rocks - haven't worked it out yet. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do. Once I get the tank in the house and begin the plumbing, I'm going to just try out some different ideas in terms of plumbing and aquascaping...

I think if the flow is directed toward the rocks, it needs to be somewhat slower flow w/higher volume rather than a small jet stream type flow. Isn't that type of flow one of the major features of the Tunze streams? Comments??
 
never used/expreinced the Tunze streams, but it sounds like this is going to be a very cool project. if you could dig up some pictures that'll be great. can't wait to see what this is going to look like!
 
Well, tonight I managed to round up three other guys to help me move this thing on to the stand, installed the bulkhead fittings and put just a little bit of water in it to see if the BH's would leak. No leaks so far, but tomorrow will be the true test...

Here are some pics...

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I'm going to eventually pick up some oak trim from Home Despot to go around the bottom (and maybe the top) to hide the black trim. Originally the stand was built for a tank that did not need full bottom support, just edge support. So we built it with just a piece of luan across the top and the tank sat way down. However... the new tank that I decided to get sits flat on it's bottom glass, so has to be supported across it's full area. So I had to modify the stand. I put a nice strong brace accross from front to back in the middle, and then screwed and glued that 3/4" plywood in. Then the 3/4" styrofoam on top of that. So now the tank is sitting way up higher than we planned, and the wood trim on the top of the stand is not hiding the black plastic tank trim!!!

Also - I did find one link to a tank with some bottom plumbing, not a manifold though. And it is a sump return rather than a closed loop (I'd be really worried about a flood, I think a check valve is the only thing holding the tank water in if the pump stops)... Anyway here's the link
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=483461&perpage=25&pagenumber=2
The pictures were loading earlier today, but sometimes they don't seem to want to show up...
 
thanks for the pics. it is different and definately thinking outside of the box, but i think i'll stick to the manifold on the top. i guess conformity is one of my downfalls:b
 
Well, if I was planning to cover the top, I'd do a top manifold also. It allows much easier changes later if you want. Once a bottom manifold is in, it is really in... That's my biggest problem with it. But since I'm doing an open top, a manifold up there would just be too much exposed pipe.
 
Well, it is passing the first water test! So... how long should I leave this thing sit in the garage with water in it? I'm ready to get it in the house and start plumbing it!
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Is there a plastic brace around the edges? If so, I wouldn't use styrofoam. It will put pressure on the glass and can cause it to crack.

Looking good thoughu.
 
The plastic trim is only super thin to cover the edges of the glass. The styrofoam is per the manufacturers instructions. I also got a quote from Miracles in Glass and I think I remember them saying that their tanks also sat flat on the bottom glass and were supposed to sit on a 3/4" styrofoam layer. That was the first I had ever heard of it...
 
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