Rearing Black Ocellaris Clownfish

[WaffleWalffle22]

My pair spawned a few days ago for the first time. They eggs are fertilized and the male has been taking care of them. :hmm5:

Here's the video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkM36m7G8os

I was told on my local reef club to let them get a routine going for a few months before I start collecting and rearing the fry so that I don't disturb the parents, so I'm going to wait until late July. I've read Joyce Wilkerson's book and I know the basics of rearing the fry.

I'm planning on setting up 2 rearing tanks so if one crashes I have the other half. I'll buy two 5 gallon tanks and I'll heat them with this:http://www.petsolutions.com/Mini-Aquarium-Heater+I41400319+C1021.aspx

I'll also get this: http://www.petsolutions.com/Aquarium-Temp-Alert+I33101208+C1021.aspx

My first questions: What filtration do you use for them during larval stage? What filtration do you use once they have gone through metamorphosis? Are 5g tanks OK for larva and metamorphosis?
Once they have gone through metamorphosis I'll move them all to a 10g with a small, in-tank filter.

 

[clowns101]

I dont use filtration while they are in larval stage.I keep a air stone with a pump set on low to keep water moving.Once they have gone past META I then place a Sponge filter in the tank with the air pump set on moderate.I use 10 gallon tanks filled half full.More surface area for Co2 exchange.But 5 should be fine.But always keep in Mind bigger is always better!

 

[dirtStar]

First congrats!

That heater will not do the justice.
I use a 50watt in a half filled 10gal tank. 50w will give you elbow room to keep the temps up if it gets cold. Also, you can use a 50w if you decide to upgrade or then use it in the 10gal rearing.

The temp is a cool idea if someone is always at home to hear it, otherwise useless....
Also if a heater goes out, you will need one to replace almost instanly.

For the first 2-3 weeks, you only use an airstone, no filtration.
After meta you can go to a sponge filter that uses an air lift system. (pretty much $5 or so.) I got mine in today from ebay (china) I paid a whopping $3 with shipping, relatively fast shipping.

5 gals are ok, but a 10gal is more recommended by lots and myself included.
Many options include, upgrading, using for QT in future, sump, and a partial growout until a main growout when larger.
Plus 10 gal is about the same cost of a 5gal.
When using a 10gal for larvae, you only need to fill halfway...I have about 4 gals in mine atm.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

OK. I was thinking 5g so that when I feed rotifers they will be more concentrated. I'll do a 10g tank. I already have two 50w heaters and a 10g tank. I just need to buy another 10g tank and some new air stones. I've been worrying about this for a long time (over a year since I had a feeling they would spawn), but if the larvae swim too close to a heater won't it fry them?

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

What air pump models do you guys use? I'm looking for one with an adjustable amount of air.

 

[crooks]

Put your airstone close to the heater to keep the water flowing away from it. Buy a large air pump then get metal gangway valves so you can run multiple things off it like a couple of rot cultures, brine shrimp, and your fry tanks.

 

[dirtStar]

I go this dual output air pump at walmart.

It was cheaper than my lfs....Thatfishplace
But the rest of my stuff comes from there

Gang valve

You want to get a gang valve- the bigger the better, use one valve to bleed off all extra air...thus putting less wear and tear on your pump.
The gang valves will control all air points and you can fine tune them to the extreme.
I personally have a 4 way and a 2 way (but will prob be getting more in the future)

This contols a copepod culture (for my dragonets and butterfly)
2-3 rotifer cultures
1-2 bbs hatcheries
and the larvae tanks.

 

[clowns101]

OK. I was thinking 5g so that when I feed rotifers they will be more concentrated. I'll do a 10g tank. I already have two 50w heaters and a 10g tank. I just need to buy another 10g tank and some new air stones. I've been worrying about this for a long time (over a year since I had a feeling they would spawn), but if the larvae swim too close to a heater won't it fry them?

No the fry will not get fried if they swim close to the heater.I raised some damsels which are harder than clownfish and they swim to the heater all the time and dont get hurt.The clownfish fry do the same thing and are fine.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

I just did a lot of rereading on Joyce Wilkerson's book about rearing. Here's my plan...

Larvae Tank

10 Gallon glass aquarium
One 50w heater (right side of tank) 80F (electrical tape over indication light)
Two Air Stones (one under heater and one on left side of tank)
Two air pumps
Ammonia Alert Badge
Thermometer
Black Construction Paper (around sides)
Styrofoam (under tank)
Egg Crate (over tank for light to rest on)
Light (on top of Egg Crate) Can you suggest a lighting fixture with bulbs?

Juvenile Tank

20 Gallon Glass Aquarium With Light And Hood (Have it)
100w Heater (middle of tank with Air Stone under it)
Sponge Filter Can you suggest a good sponge filter?
Thermometer
Ammonia Alert Badge
Two air pumps

Food Culture

Two 5g buckets (each with 5 million rotifers)
Two Air Stones (one in each bucket)
Green Water (IDK what that is, but I'll research it)

I'm not much of an expert on culturing food for the larvae so make any suggestions you want. What do I use to culture BBS for them when they are Juveniles? Could you tell me the setup or give me a link to an easy setup? Feel free to make changes to my ideas. Also, at what age do they go through metamorphosis?
Thanks!

 

[clowns101]

Question #1)I eould just get a plane indecent light for the fry tank.They dont need light really.

Question #2)All sponge filter work the same IMO.SO its really up to you on which one to get.They al work on the same plan.Air gets pumped into a tube and the air rises bringing water up with it.Just like a air luft pump.

Question #3)Culturing BBS is very easy.Get a 2 liter soda bottle.Fill it with salt water.Drill hole in the cap.Put air line though the cap.Then place a air stone on the air line.Add BBS eggs.Turn on air pump.Adjust air flow.They will hatch within 24 to 36 hours.

Qustion #4)They should go through META at about 11-13 days depending on the sp. of fish.

For other good information on breeding fish try MOFIB.Im a member there too!Also give Reed's Mariculture a call.They will help a bit.

One thing I want to ask you is,Why do you feel fit to place the black papre around the tnak?I know Clownfishes says to do it but I have done it and seen no benefit from it.I got the same results with out it.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

One thing I want to ask you is,Why do you feel fit to place the black papre around the tnak?I know Clownfishes says to do it but I have done it and seen no benefit from it.I got the same results with out it.

It says that in the ocean the only light source is from over-head lighting, and if there is another light source then they might all clump there and might not spread out and get the rotifers they need. I want to do it just in case, and I have all the materials to do it, so it won't hurt. I realized I have everything except the air stones, the ammonia badge, and the rotifers. My mom is begging me to raise this batch, and I'm considering raising this batch. When the other breeder from my local reef club said I should wait for a bit, I think they thought I was going to remove the rock. I don't see any reason the parents would be upset by me capturing the larvae from the tank, so I might raise this batch. I checked the eggs today, and they have just turned brown. I think I may have 3 days more or less until they turn silver and are ready to hatch.

 

[dirtStar]

This here is perfect to grow bbs and when they are hatched, turn off the air for ten minutes and then you take of the airline from the gang valve side, lower the airline into a cup for just a second to get about three table spoons of pure bbs.

The clowns dont neccessary need light to survive, but it is better to have a bit overhead for them to find food.
Some actually leave the light on for 24hr/day for the first few days to week.
Makes them eat more and grow faster.
Too much light and they will spaze out and bash up against the sides of the tank, so watch closely when adding light.

Meta can happen anywhere from day 6 on, depending on species.
It is very stressful for the fish and this is where you will lose some, esp if they arent healthy.
*I have read that for each degree under 81F, adds a day (prolongs) until meta..sounds true to me.

I dont cover the sides of my tank, but depends on the overhead light, and the side lighting.

How many times did the clownfish spawn?
If it is their first, then you dont have the clock set yet.
They might not lay for another week after the hatch or month.
This first batch, you should let go...that will give you approx 2 weeks to get the
rots in and the cuture going, and also getting all the set up complete (heater set, etc.)


You can get rots from many sources, but reed mariculture is pretty uch the favorite among starters.

They even have a rotifer starter kit here
$30 isnt bad at all, plus shipping.
Comes 2nd day I think so, it will be at your house quickly.

Really think about letting this batch go, as I let my first go.
This way the parents will lay another if they want.
You dont want 400 babies dying because you ran out of rotifers on the second day.

Give the time to read more and ask more questions.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

My mom had been wanting me to raise this batch. I think there are only about 50 eggs left after the male tossed the bad ones. Since there are 50 or so, shouldn't I be able to rear them with the starter kit and let the population grow once they have gone through meta? I'm guessing they'll hatch in 3 or 4 days. I went and got all the equipment to set up the tank and once it is set up (without water) I can take a picture and let you guys make suggestions. I'll let my mom go ahead and order the rotifers for me so that I can either raise this batch or grow the population. Since the parents are taking care of the eggs, I assume they are going to lay more once these hatch.

 

[clowns101]

It says that in the ocean the only light source is from over-head lighting, and if there is another light source then they might all clump there and might not spread out and get the rotifers they need. I want to do it just in case, and I have all the materials to do it, so it won't hurt. I realized I have everything except the air stones, the ammonia badge, and the rotifers. My mom is begging me to raise this batch, and I'm considering raising this batch. When the other breeder from my local reef club said I should wait for a bit, I think they thought I was going to remove the rock. I don't see any reason the parents would be upset by me capturing the larvae from the tank, so I might raise this batch. I checked the eggs today, and they have just turned brown. I think I may have 3 days more or less until they turn silver and are ready to hatch.

I dont have any side light.My fry tanks are in a pitch black room with the light on that I placed on the top of the tank.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

My room has light coming in from everywhere, so I'll do the black sides just to be safe.

 

[dirtStar]

Waf,

If you can get on the order by tomorrow morning and confirm they can ship it tomorrow, then it is quite possible. But dont be upset if they dont make it.
It will set the stage for going thru all the steps.

my first batch I scooped up about 300 or so.
the next morning I had about 13 -15 that survived (by my own unXP)
DONT have anything else in the tank except for the heater, airstone temp probe and ammonia badge.

Put half of the rotifers in the tank and fill halfway with Display tank water.
Use the other half of rotifers to start 1-2 cultures with 3 gallons in each 5 gal bucket.

Tint the rots in the larvae tank with roti diet and hopefully they can co-culture with
the larvae.
If you receive them by wed, you should have a day or two to have the tank stable.

Post any questions, and we will be here to help.

 

[clowns101]

Dont be upset if you dont get anything the first trys.The best thing to do is just wait and let nature takes its cource!The first batches are always the hardest,however rkelman raised his first batch with like 21-23 surviors.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

I know basically how to do everything, but I may still have my questions. :rollface:

I'll set up the tank (without water) and take a picture and you can tell me what I should or shouldn't change.

 

[dirtStar]

Oh, you are also gonna need a sieve for the rotifers.
A 53 micron one.

Ebay you can get the and also seahorsesource.com (just found this out last night)
SeaHS also has decapsulated BS, so I would opt for that place.
It is also a fav here.
I will be ordering decap BS prob soon, as you can hatch them in the larvae tank (I am pretty sure)


If you have good lighting in the room, black the sides, and you may not even need a light on the tank. Just make sure you watch and see the larvae hunting and eating.
If not, you may need a light...based on others, you prob should not.

My 11 left are 7 days now, and two have their first stripes, wow, that is a nice sight to see.
You will see the very faintest sight of one coming, and then 8 hours later the head stripe is in fully.
I also have a few more on the bottom, and they will prob have the head stripe by tomorrow morn.

 

[WaffleWalffle22]

What is a sieve? :sad2: