I guess I did a live stock list recently but haven't done an inventory list for a while I don't think. Lets see if I can remember what all I have and setup.
Standard 180 (72x24x24) with an internal weir and external overflow setup with three channels as described by beananimal. 1 open channel, 1 full siphon, and 1 failsafe.
Reefkeeper light mounted in the stand with 2x Pc4 outlet strips. Controls the lights and have an extension cord run down to the basement to another PC4 plugged into it which the return pump is then plugged into. That way standby will stop the return which I do every time I feed by hand. I also have
a SL1 for the switch ports and a switch hanging in the external overflow just as an extra extra caution to make sure it doesn't overflow. That will shut down the return pump.
Reefbrite LED lighting
Front to back 48" all blue, 2x36" 50/50 with optics, 72" xho 50/50, 48" 50/50
Ramp up and ramp down schedule controlled with ReefKeeper Light (RKL) at main Display Tank stand.
10am to 10pm for the 48" all blue
11am to 9pm for the 48" 50/50
12pm to 8pm for the 72" xho 50/50
2pm to 6pm for the 2x36" 50/50 with 90degree optics
then cheap blue moon lights on from 10pm to 10am.
Water movement:
2x Tunze 6105s controlled by a Tunze 7096
Creates a smooth 1" pulsing action in the tank with these settings:
Left pump alternates from 50-80% w/ 18v jumper
Right pump alternates from 0-30% w/ 24v jumper
Pulse is set to .99 seconds with .9 ramp up and down
I don't use the night mode as the earth doesn't stop spinning and the moon doesn't stop orbiting.
Storm timer set to 6hours and really pulls up the detritus but definitely need to watch coral placements to be able to handle the temporarily 100% pulses. This popped a frogspawn head. I don't use the night mode.
Tunze battery backup for one of the 6105's connected to a deep cycle 75Ah battery with a battery tender junior maintaining the charge. This will run it for several days.
Eheim auto feeder feeding 4 times a day New Life Spectrum regular Marine formula 1mm pellets. 11am, 1:00pm, 2pm, 4pm then I'll feed a cube of frozen something at 6pm and 8pm.
That's pretty much what I have upstairs for the main display tank I believe. Then down in the basement.
40 gallon Breeder dimensions which I can't remember off the top of my head. Split up into drain section with skimmer, ph probe, carbon dosing, heaters, and temp probe. That flows into a cryptic zone like area with the Reverse Undergravel Filter (RUGF), 50gph flow, dolomite gravel and filed up the rest of the way with live rock sponges, feather dusters, worms, and pods galore. The last smallest section is the return.
Reefkeeper light w/ 2 PC4s, SL2, Net, PH Probe, and 2 float switches. One PC4 is connected to the upstairs and is shutoff entirely during feeding or I can put items into standby with the downstairs RKL as well when doing maintenance.
Mag 1800 return pump which after all the head height is giving around 700 GPH. Can be controlled by both RKLs.
Reef Octopus SRO-3000 SSS which I could not be happier with. Also, can be controlled by both RKls,
Heater Setup with multiple redundancies.
RKL monitoring via iTemp probe set to 76F with .2 swing variance
Ranco Controller plugged into RKL controlled by iTemp set to 84F
2x Eheim Jager 250w plugged into Ranco set to 82
BRS 1.1ml per day doser controlled by RKL set to dose Vinegar for 3 minutes every 20 minutes 20 times a day starting at 1pm. This gives a nice spread out 66ml to help reduce PH reduction during peak PH times. The RKL with the PH probe also has an alert action on for this to stop dosing if the PH drops below 7.85.
BRS 50ml per day doser controlled by RKL and two float switches in the return section for ATO of full saturated RO/DI/Kalk (lime water). This is also set to not run for more then 5 minutes at a time with a 10 minute break between to make sure it doesn't dose to much at once and also that it doesn't constantly run in case of a float switch failure. This also has a PH Probe alert setup to stop dosing if the PH goes above 8.4.
BRS 5 stage plus RO/DI filter. Modified with an extra RO membrane, DI cartridge and another TDS meter. So from
water supply > TDS in (~230) > 5micron Sediment filter > 5 micron carbon block > 1 micron carbon block > 300 gpd RO membrane > 300 gpd RO membrane > TDS out (~6) > DI > TDS out (~0) > DI > TDS out (0)
I'll rotate the DI as soon as the first DI stage hits 1. After reading through many many posts it looks like I probably only need 1 carbon block as would most people and even a TDS of 1 can be very bad depending on what is in that 1. That there can be things that can get through a DI stage and that having 2 is a great backup.
The RO/DI feeds into the ATO via float valve in case I forget to turn it off and it doesn't flood the basement. I do not leave it on all the time depending on the float valve in case it fails. This is also true and setup for my Saltwater mixing station.
Brute Trash Can. This gets the RO/DI water to be made into salt water with regular Instant Ocean salt (IO). It is plumbed with a Mag 1800 (I can use this as a backup for my return pump too) to mix the water, fill the water level back up in the drain section of the sump for water changes, and also a run to fill up buckets or miscellaneous things in case I need it like doing water changes for my 20g mantis tank or filling up my sister-in-laws water jugs. I don't need a heater like mentioned above since the mag drive is hot enough. Taking the room temp from around 65F to close to 80F. I also still have a run up to the main tank from when I didn't have a sump and doing water changes for my old 55g and I can still use it for emergency mass water changes.
ATO container is just a 29g clear sterilite plastic bin with a lid. as mentioned above a float valve for RO/DI and line to the BRS parasitical pump. That's it. I dump in a bunch of Kalk (either BRS or store bought Mrs. Wages lime) and stir briefly with a section of pvc. Set and forget.
Azoo battery backup air pump for the sump in case loss of power to keep oxygen levels up in the sump and not cause mass die offs and stagnate water. This should also run for a few days.
In case both battery backups fail I have a power inverter I can connect to my vehicles and charge them backup or run what I might need like a heater or Fan. Still planning on getting a full generator.
I think that's it. It's setup for me and my tank and capabilities of maintenance. I try to incorporate failsafes.
