Recommend a good 1/4" Solenoid Valve?

hipertec

Active member
Hi, looking to put a fail safe 1/4" tubing Solenoid Valve controlled by my Apex EB8. It looks like there are 12V DC and 110V AC versions.

1. Isnt the 110V AC better since you can bypass the AC/DC Adapter?
2. Was told to go with 12V DC..why do most people use this?
3. Can you recommend a good quality, affordable 1/4" Solenoid Valve? There are alot of choices on amazon.
 
What are you trying to control? This will determine the valve material.

Do you have an Apex Classic or the newer 2016?

12vdc around water is a lot safer than 120vac.
 
I used a couple 120v AC 1/4" Solenoid Valves purchased from Amazon to control my RODI unit. The problem with them was that they would leak where the RO tube connected to the solenoid, and they are loud. When powered on you can hear a noticeable electrical hum. I bought 3 of them and each one leaked for some strange reason. Neptune makes one, it might be worth looking into that one.
 
Ok then.

It's duty cycle will be short, so that helps. You don't want brass, and stainless steel will cost more.
I would use this one. The orifice is 2.5mm, still small but the operating range is 0-115psi with no minimum so the valve will close tight.
Then use a 1/4" push fitting. Be sure to use pipe dope NOT TEFLON TAPE on the connection.

You'll just have to add a plug. Just be sure it'a a good, preferably soldered/shrink wrap connection.

https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-4-120v-ac-electric-plastic-solenoid-valve/
 
I used a couple 120v AC 1/4" Solenoid Valves purchased from Amazon to control my RODI unit. The problem with them was that they would leak where the RO tube connected to the solenoid, and they are loud. When powered on you can hear a noticeable electrical hum. I bought 3 of them and each one leaked for some strange reason. Neptune makes one, it might be worth looking into that one.

Neptune's is 24vdc. He would need to power it somehow.
 
Ok then.

It's duty cycle will be short, so that helps. You don't want brass, and stainless steel will cost more.
I would use this one. The orifice is 2.5mm, still small but the operating range is 0-115psi with no minimum so the valve will close tight.
Then use a 1/4" push fitting. Be sure to use pipe dope NOT TEFLON TAPE on the connection.

You'll just have to add a plug. Just be sure it'a a good, preferably soldered/shrink wrap connection.

https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-4-120v-ac-electric-plastic-solenoid-valve/

Thank you for the recommendation - this one is 120V AC so I assume just get a cord and solder it on.

Would 12V DC be better for salt water/tank applications? Or is 120VAC fine for safety and durability of the Solenoid?
 
Thank you for the recommendation - this one is 120V AC so I assume just get a cord and solder it on.

Would 12V DC be better for salt water/tank applications? Or is 120VAC fine for safety and durability of the Solenoid?

120vac - solder on a cord - safety aspect, if you solder and shrink wrap it good, I would say it's safer than a submerged heater.

12vdc - The valve pulls 7 watts, so you will need a 12vdc power supply that's rated at least 7w +20% so you're looking at a 10w power supply.

Me personally, I would go with the 120vac. That's what 99% of the solenoids that are used for Co2 on calcium reactors are.. And there are tons out there with out issues.
 
Back
Top