Red Sea Max Owners Club

[Titans]

Saw an old post from Donna and found my answers regarding the lid not closing all the way...But what is this about a steve cup mod?

Well it looks like my tunze doesn't want to work. The pump works and everything seems to be hooked up correctly...but when I turn it on it doesn't pull air from the air hose and bubble up? The hose is not constricted or anything because I can blow air into it to manually make it foam up but it will not do it on its own. Anyone know what the issue is?

 

[xdfireguy]

yeah, go to the Tunze forum and PM one of the guys there. They put the wrong venturi on most of the units. They'll send you one out quickly for free.

I'll try and dig up the name, but this was addressed a few pages back in this thread = EDIT: PAGE 7

 

[xdfireguy]

PM rvitko - Roger Vitko

Re: Tunze 9002
It sounds like you have a wrong venturi nozzle. You won't see much water movement inside but some skimmers were made last month with the nozzle from the much older and obsolete 210 by mistake. If you give me your name and address we will send a new correct venturi.

 

[Titans]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12841307#post12841307 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by xdfireguy
PM rvitko - Roger Vitko

Re: Tunze 9002
It sounds like you have a wrong venturi nozzle. You won't see much water movement inside but some skimmers were made last month with the nozzle from the much older and obsolete 210 by mistake. If you give me your name and address we will send a new correct venturi.

Sweet thanks a million

 

[martinphillip03]

Re: What do You Know????

Re: What do You Know????

deleted

 

[Brent F]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12839428#post12839428 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by donna53w
I thought you would be particularly interested in the info, Brent .

Is your new family member with you yet? I see him in your photo ...

We picked him up in Fort McLeod today (3 hour round trip). A very exciting day for the whole family with the new puppy

 

[Brent F]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12839477#post12839477 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by martinphillip03
Brent, I missed that post. But if you get the right ballast you can overdrive the bulbs and even get more par. I would not use a pure actinic bulb. I would get higher par bulbs.

Marty

The fixtures I am looking at are T5HO (not T5) so are overdriven already. Many 4 bulb fixtures / retrofit kits come with two independently wired ballasts so you can turn on the 2 actinics and the 2 10,000 K bulbs separately. Unlike PC bulbs T5s are not available in a combination bulb. You use a combination of pure actinics and pure 10,000K bulbs.

PAR stands for Parabolic Aluminized Reflector (a flood lamp shaped bulb). The PAR rating on a bulb is the diameter of the lens in eights of an inch. For example, kitchen pots are PAR 30 and are 3.5 inches across. Sealed beam car headlights are commonly PAR 36 or Par 56

Florescent tubes are measured in T which, like PAR, is the diameter in eighths of an inch. Traditional office lighting is T12 (1.5 inch diameter). Power Compact, which is the socket and ballast in a RSM is T6. Red Sea made their own T5 diameter PC bulbs which are not available locally for Donna and me.

I don’t have a problem with the Red Sea T5PC other than they are a non-standard bulb not available locally. You can stick T6PC bulbs in the RSM but the light level would go down. Switching the guts from PC to T5HO would give the same, if not better light than the Red Sea T5PC with the advantage that I can buy bulbs in any LFS far cheaper than the RSM bulbs.

Four 24 watt T5HOs should fit in the same area the two PC bulbs are. I figure the swap would pay for itself in 12 â€"œ 18 months.

 

[martinphillip03]

Brent, My knowledge of T5 lighting is limited. This is my understanding. The following are the names and par output of different T5 lights ATI. I don't know if these come in 24" lengths.

Sun Pro 357
Aquablue 336
Blue Plus 311
Actinic 137

D&D/Giesemann

Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Actinic Plus 264
Pure Actinic 157

AquaZ

Sun Pro 285
Ocean Pro 323
Blue Pro 266

Helios

Daylight 309
Super Blue 225

Current Sun Paq

Daylight 10K 272
Blue 252

GE Daylight 340


My understanding is that some lights have an actinic spectrum to it. IE Actinic Plus 264 as opposed to Pure Actinic 157. What I am trying to say is you may not need to to use a pure actinic bulb, maybe other types may be used to give the actinic you need but also have a higher par value, to give your tank more light.
Now I believe these are all T5HO bulbs. Now regularly a 4 foot bulb is 55 watts. But if you overdrive them with a certain icecap ballast, the light will output 85 watts.
Since this is my first time discussing this, what do you think?

Marty

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12842096#post12842096 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brent F
The fixtures I am looking at are T5HO (not T5) so are overdriven already. Many 4 bulb fixtures / retrofit kits come with two independently wired ballasts so you can turn on the 2 actinics and the 2 10,000 K bulbs separately. Unlike PC bulbs T5s are not available in a combination bulb. You use a combination of pure actinics and pure 10,000K bulbs.

PAR stands for Parabolic Aluminized Reflector (a flood lamp shaped bulb). The PAR rating on a bulb is the diameter of the lens in eights of an inch. For example, kitchen pots are PAR 30 and are 3.5 inches across. Sealed beam car headlights are commonly PAR 36 or Par 56

Florescent tubes are measured in T which, like PAR, is the diameter in eighths of an inch. Traditional office lighting is T12 (1.5 inch diameter). Power Compact, which is the socket and ballast in a RSM is T6. Red Sea made their own T5 diameter PC bulbs which are not available locally for Donna and me.



Four 24 watt T5HOs should fit in the same area the two PC bulbs are. I figure the swap would pay for itself in 12 â€"œ 18 months.

 

[Brent F]

You can overdrive a florescent but are better off using more bubs instead if you have the space because overdriving isn't as energy efficient. For example, overdriving a bulb by doubling the watts consumed gives you about a 50% increase in light. You get a 100% increase in light if you use two lights instead.

 

[Brent F]

Off topic new pet

Off topic new pet

Here's a picture of the Labradoodle we got today. It is the only picture I could get that isn't a blur becasue he won't stop running.

 

[donna53w]

Brent: :fun4: Your new pup is absolutely adorable. Good wishes to you and your family with your new little fella! Great photo of him ... maybe he'll sleep well now that he's been so busy running off some of that puppy energy!

Titans: I guess I got lucky as my venturi is working fine. My skimmer has the same hole as you mentioned at the top, and there is no screw or anything ... it must be just 'for looks'. Did you get your lid to stay on now?
StevieTdrill makes a rectangular, acrylic cup that replaces the Tunze cup and allows the lid to close. My lid doesn't close but for now I'm just leaving it as is. Perhaps I will order a cup from StevieT a little down the road.

 

[Reefmack]

Brent - what a cool looking pup! As Donna said - he's adorable!

Marty I'm not sure you really understand lighting as well as Brent does. I know I don't!

 

[Brent F]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12842330#post12842330 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by martinphillip03
Brent, My knowledge of T5 lighting is limited. This is my understanding. The following are the names and par output of different T5 lights ATI. I don't know if these come in 24" lengths.

Sun Pro 357
Aquablue 336
Blue Plus 311
Actinic 137

D&D/Giesemann

Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Actinic Plus 264
Pure Actinic 157

AquaZ

Sun Pro 285
Ocean Pro 323
Blue Pro 266

Helios

Daylight 309
Super Blue 225

Current Sun Paq

Daylight 10K 272
Blue 252

GE Daylight 340


My understanding is that some lights have an actinic spectrum to it. IE Actinic Plus 264 as opposed to Pure Actinic 157. What I am trying to say is you may not need to to use a pure actinic bulb, maybe other types may be used to give the actinic you need but also have a higher par value, to give your tank more light.
Now I believe these are all T5HO bulbs. Now regularly a 4 foot bulb is 55 watts. But if you overdrive them with a certain icecap ballast, the light will output 85 watts.
Since this is my first time discussing this, what do you think?

Marty

This table is copied out of a 26 page thread originally posted by The Grim Reefer
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=918935

A Photosynthetically Active Radiation meter (PAR) measures light in the 400 to to 700 nanometre range. Actinic light is in the 320 to 420 nanometre range so much of the actinic light will not be measured by a PAR test. This chart undervalues actinic light.

All this chart tells you is a pure actinic produces less light in the visible spectrum (as it should). Since much of the light in the actinic spectrum is outside this range so the chart is meaningless for comparing actinic to visible light bulbs. If an actinic does not have a significantly lower PAR value it isn't putting out light in the actinic spectrum.

If anything, buy actinic bulbs with the lowest PAR because they are more likely to be producing actinic light.

 

[MPeer]

Brent F - What is the cute puppy's name? I assume a labradoodle is a mix of labrador and poodle?

 

[Brent F]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12843036#post12843036 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Aaron Peer
Brent F - What is the cute puppy's name? I assume a labradoodle is a mix of labrador and poodle?

We named him Tucker.

There are two very different kinds of labradoodles.

One is a cross between a labrador and a poodle. This gives very mixed results with some pups being lab like and other's more poodle. There are also development problems if you mix the sized of the parents.

The other labradoodle, which we bought, is an Australian Labradoodle. This is a dog where both parents are multigeneration Australian Labradoodles. The Labradoodle associations are working in different countries to have this recognized as a new breed.

The Australian Labradoodle was originally bred in the 70’s as a service dog for blind people with asthma and dog allergies. It is a mix of Standard Poodle, Miniature Poodle, Toy Poodle, Labrador Retriever, American Cocker Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel, Irish Water Spaniel, and the Curly Coat Retriever. By mixing in three sizes of poodles there is a large range of sizes available. Ours is midsized.

NaCl+H2O Fish is a professional dog trainer and could provide more accurate info as to what is required to have a new breed recognized.

http://iaustralianlabradoodlea.org/IALA/index.html

 

[donna53w]

Brent: How did the first night go?

I woke up this morning to find my Sebae Anemone perched right in the center of my rock... covering most of a small zoa colony (which I can move) and touching a Ricordea - which I can't move. Now what?

 

[Titans]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12842503#post12842503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by donna53w
Titans: I guess I got lucky as my venturi is working fine. My skimmer has the same hole as you mentioned at the top, and there is no screw or anything ... it must be just 'for looks'. Did you get your lid to stay on now?
StevieTdrill makes a rectangular, acrylic cup that replaces the Tunze cup and allows the lid to close. My lid doesn't close but for now I'm just leaving it as is. Perhaps I will order a cup from StevieT a little down the road.

Must be for looks...on the box you can see something inputted in that hole but it's probably to stabilize the cup. If you are referring to the lid of the tunze then yes mine stays down. I haven't installed the skimmer in my RSM yet since it didn't work when I tested it in a bucket. Thanks for the answers...

Donna did you have the magnetic mount Tunze? If so did you install it to your heater side?

 

[donna53w]

Titans: Yes, I have the magnet mount Tunze & I installed it on the electrical panel side. I removed the cord housing as it won't fit with the magnet in there. Actually I had removed the housing when I had my Hydor Koralia 1 mounted with the mag in the same spot (I've since moved the Koralia). Now I just push all the cords into the same space ... it's easier to get them all stuffed in there!!

 

[martinphillip03]

Marty I'm not sure you really understand lighting as well as Brent does. I know I don't! [/B][/QUOTE]

I don't. thats why I asked the question. so I could learn. I don't have anyone to bounce ideas off. So when I get a chance, I do. Then I find out if I am off base or not


Marty

 

[martinphillip03]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12843017#post12843017 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brent F
This table is copied out of a 26 page thread originally posted by The Grim Reefer
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=918935

A Photosynthetically Active Radiation meter (PAR) measures light in the 400 to to 700 nanometre range. Actinic light is in the 320 to 420 nanometre range so much of the actinic light will not be measured by a PAR test. This chart undervalues actinic light.

All this chart tells you is a pure actinic produces less light in the visible spectrum (as it should). Since much of the light in the actinic spectrum is outside this range so the chart is meaningless for comparing actinic to visible light bulbs. If an actinic does not have a significantly lower PAR value it isn't putting out light in the actinic spectrum.

If anything, buy actinic bulbs with the lowest PAR because they are more likely to be producing actinic light.

From what I have read, the blue plus and the actinic plus would provide enough actinic for the tank. I guess I have to research exactly what actinic light does. Since I plan on keeping SPS maybe my actinic needs will be different.

Thanks

Marty