Mister Chips
New member
I have a friend selling a new Current 1/4 hp chiller for a steal. I know it is probably way overkill but I can buy it for the same if not cheaper than a smaller one 1/10 or 1/15.
Any tips?
Any tips?
Red Sea Max Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
Reefmack
In Memoriam
Aaron Peer - That certainly is a larger than typical nudibranch! Good thing your adept at using chopsticks - what a novel way of extricating soft organisms like a nudibranch! Were they reef safe chopsticks? LOL - just kidding of course. It looks like it's probably a safe one, but I'm not sure I'd want to put it back in my tank. Doing a Google search on Dendrodoris nigra brings up a lot of sites with information on the critter.
Mister Chips - no chiller here, but it seems like most use a Current Mini Prime, or JBJ, chiller - 1/15 hp seems to be the most common size for the RSM, but 1/10 hp will obviously chill better under very warm conditions (at higher cost).
Arreola - your best choice on an online supplier that offers "one stop" shopping is probably either Drs. Foster & Smith, or Marine Depot. Even between those 2 there are cases where one may have something you want and the other doesn't. It can be difficult finding everything at one place. I'm not sure if they all offer international shipping or not.
DontXtripNfall Let us know how the JBJ scraper does. I'm thing it's not actually a razor blade, but a stainless steel blade like my Kent scraper - not real good on really thick coralline. I tried out the new 12" handle razor scraper I got off Ebay yesterday, only the width of the single edged razor, and it did a great job of removing the rest of my built up coralline. I still can't get at the coralline on the back left side though - there wasn't enough angle on the industrial razor scraper to attack the coralline without my arm knocking off corals. If I could find an extension for the Aqua Medic razor scraper I might be able to get at it. The tank sure does look better now, with the back and sides pretty much clear of coralline.
Mister Chips - no chiller here, but it seems like most use a Current Mini Prime, or JBJ, chiller - 1/15 hp seems to be the most common size for the RSM, but 1/10 hp will obviously chill better under very warm conditions (at higher cost).
Arreola - your best choice on an online supplier that offers "one stop" shopping is probably either Drs. Foster & Smith, or Marine Depot. Even between those 2 there are cases where one may have something you want and the other doesn't. It can be difficult finding everything at one place. I'm not sure if they all offer international shipping or not.
DontXtripNfall Let us know how the JBJ scraper does. I'm thing it's not actually a razor blade, but a stainless steel blade like my Kent scraper - not real good on really thick coralline. I tried out the new 12" handle razor scraper I got off Ebay yesterday, only the width of the single edged razor, and it did a great job of removing the rest of my built up coralline. I still can't get at the coralline on the back left side though - there wasn't enough angle on the industrial razor scraper to attack the coralline without my arm knocking off corals. If I could find an extension for the Aqua Medic razor scraper I might be able to get at it. The tank sure does look better now, with the back and sides pretty much clear of coralline.
martinphillip03
New member
I would buy it and try it out. If it doesn't work well, and you got a great price on it, you can always sell it and get another.
Marty
Marty
MPeer
New member
Reefmack - He looks half-dead this morning. Those chopsticks were made out of wood/bamboo. If you ever need a lesson in using chopsticks to pull your livestock out of the tank, you know who to ask now. :lol:
I did a google search under that species name and it looks like he's reef safe.
Mister Chips - I don't know much about chillers, but if it's a good deal I would go for the 1/4 hp. Eventually, for most reefers, they'll upgrade to a bigger tank so the bigger chiller would be more appropriate.
I did a google search under that species name and it looks like he's reef safe.
Mister Chips - I don't know much about chillers, but if it's a good deal I would go for the 1/4 hp. Eventually, for most reefers, they'll upgrade to a bigger tank so the bigger chiller would be more appropriate.
Mister Chips
New member
I really want to keep the chiller in my RSM cabinet. This 1/4hp really needs air circulation and I would hate to confine it to the small RSM cabinet. If I get a smaller one I can keep it in the cabinet, correct? Also, concerned about the gph as Tylt33 mentioned.
It is hard to pass up but still $100 more than I can buy a 1/15hp for.
Has anyone using an ATO pump, somehow used same pump for chiller?
It is hard to pass up but still $100 more than I can buy a 1/15hp for.
Has anyone using an ATO pump, somehow used same pump for chiller?
NaCl+H2O Fish
New member
ROTFL.... Mrs. Peer !!!
ROTFL.... Mrs. Peer !!!
So you have become Mrs. Kesuke Miyagi? Catching flies... errr Nudibranch with chop sticks... ala the Karate Kid! :lol:
Funny about "humanely killing" critters... Reefmack and I had this discussion a few months back because of "Buster" my Betta Fish that I had for 2+ years and had developed a skin lesion under his dorsal fin. So I agonized over ending his suffering!
I finally ran the water in the kitchen sink FULL BLAST, turned on the disposal and poured him down.... a very quick end for him IMO!
Mister Chips - I live in Hollywood, FL and purchased a Curent USA 1/15hp chiller. BAD CHOICE.... Go for a 1/10hp or the bargain 1/4hp since you live in Palm Beach, FL! Tylt33 is correct... with more Horse Power, the chiller will come on less frequently. Energy costs should be about the same. Mrs. Peer's point is a good one as well.... What if you want a larger tank down the road????
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
ROTFL.... Mrs. Peer !!!
Mrs. Peer - I needed a good laugh :lol: and your late night adventures with the "Wild and Woolly Nudribranch" brought tears to my eyes laughing! :rollface: :lol:
So you have become Mrs. Kesuke Miyagi? Catching flies... errr Nudibranch with chop sticks... ala the Karate Kid! :lol:
Funny about "humanely killing" critters... Reefmack and I had this discussion a few months back because of "Buster" my Betta Fish that I had for 2+ years and had developed a skin lesion under his dorsal fin. So I agonized over ending his suffering!
I finally ran the water in the kitchen sink FULL BLAST, turned on the disposal and poured him down.... a very quick end for him IMO!Mister Chips - I live in Hollywood, FL and purchased a Curent USA 1/15hp chiller. BAD CHOICE.... Go for a 1/10hp or the bargain 1/4hp since you live in Palm Beach, FL! Tylt33 is correct... with more Horse Power, the chiller will come on less frequently. Energy costs should be about the same. Mrs. Peer's point is a good one as well.... What if you want a larger tank down the road????
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
Reefmack
In Memoriam
Aaron Peer Maybe the nudibranch didn't get enough oxygen in the cup water. I suppose if you want to keep it you could try putting it back the tank and see if it revives it.
Mister Chips I think Red Sea says you could keep a chiller in the cabinet but many have found that there isn't enough ventilation in the cabinet to keep them from overheating, without modding the cabinet with fans. On the ATO/chiller combination pump, an ATO pump only comes on very infrequently, to make up for evaporation - the chiller couldn't work that way - you need separate pumps for each. Plus an ATO pump is usually a very low gph - much lower than a chiller needs.
Mister Chips I think Red Sea says you could keep a chiller in the cabinet but many have found that there isn't enough ventilation in the cabinet to keep them from overheating, without modding the cabinet with fans. On the ATO/chiller combination pump, an ATO pump only comes on very infrequently, to make up for evaporation - the chiller couldn't work that way - you need separate pumps for each. Plus an ATO pump is usually a very low gph - much lower than a chiller needs.
Last edited:
MPeer
New member
I'm thinking about sending him to garbage disposal heaven. Is that humane enough?
On another note, my zoa colony has not opened at all since the first day I got it. I'm to0 lazy to repost the pictures so here's the link to the thread if you're interested.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1433088
Anybody got any suggestions on what I should do?
On another note, my zoa colony has not opened at all since the first day I got it. I'm to0 lazy to repost the pictures so here's the link to the thread if you're interested.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1433088
Anybody got any suggestions on what I should do?
NaCl+H2O Fish
New member
Mrs. Peer - Did you miss my last post in reply to you???
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
Aaron Peer, if this nudibranch is a Dendrodoris Nigra, it should probably eats sponges (and it's not absolutely sure, so unless you've a ton of them or valuable ones...)
Hopefully, it shouldn't live long (days, maybe weeks ?).
A hidden crab is often far more dangerous...
But if you prefer to remove it, no need to embarass yourself with it, just do it
I just ordered the two pinpoint meters (Temperature and PH) and i hope to receive them before mid-august (if the ebay seller wake up, he says you must pay within 5 days and that he answers questions in less than 12 hours, i wait since last friday in order to know the shipping fees
)
Hopefully, it shouldn't live long (days, maybe weeks ?).
A hidden crab is often far more dangerous...
But if you prefer to remove it, no need to embarass yourself with it, just do it
I just ordered the two pinpoint meters (Temperature and PH) and i hope to receive them before mid-august (if the ebay seller wake up, he says you must pay within 5 days and that he answers questions in less than 12 hours, i wait since last friday in order to know the shipping fees
)I have a question about the maxi Jet 1200 Mod.
Do I change the 2 stock pumps for just one?
Or should I replace the stocks for 2 maxijet 1200?
I try to enlarge the pipes, with a plastic tube twice as long as the original, but still getting a lot of bubbles coming from the stock pumps.
Thank you
Arreola
Do I change the 2 stock pumps for just one?
Or should I replace the stocks for 2 maxijet 1200?
I try to enlarge the pipes, with a plastic tube twice as long as the original, but still getting a lot of bubbles coming from the stock pumps.
Thank you
Arreola
NaCl+H2O Fish
New member
Arreola - The mod is to leave 1 stock pump (left) and replace the inside (right) stock pump with the MaxiJet 1200. Not sure that two MJ1200's would fit side-by-side....???
Here is a picture.... MJ1200 on the right... stock pump left:
Note the 12" cable/zip ties holding the bottoms of the pumps ON, since the MJ1200 has a 6" tubing extension underneath and the stock pump a 8" tubing extension underneath....
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H20 Fish
NaCl+H2O Fish - Thank you for the picture.
I notticed that the water level on the pumps are higher than mine.
when the pumps are off the water almost cover the pumps, but once they start, the water level drops quite a lot.
It hardly cover the intake plate at the bottom of the pumps.
Here is a picture of the water level on the tank.
please correct me if I do not have enough water and that's whats causing the bubbles.
I notticed that the water level on the pumps are higher than mine.
when the pumps are off the water almost cover the pumps, but once they start, the water level drops quite a lot.
It hardly cover the intake plate at the bottom of the pumps.
Here is a picture of the water level on the tank.
please correct me if I do not have enough water and that's whats causing the bubbles.
NaCl+H2O Fish
New member
Arreola - It's hard to tell from your photo, but I top off twice a day with RO/DI water to ABOVE the black trim around the top of my RSM. Often times I will get a brief micro-bubble storm while the level equalizes.....
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
Kent a.k.a. NaCl+H2O Fish
Reefmack
In Memoriam
Before, Halfway There, and Done!
Before, Halfway There, and Done!
Arreola I agree with Kent - difficult to tell where your water level is. Based on the level being where the reflection starts, it looks like you may be about an inch below the black trim? I run my water level so that it's about 1/8-1/4 inch below the trim in front. I run mine so that there's maybe 1/8-1/4 inch of air space at the top of the overflow gate - just enough space to let any surface oil/scum be able to be pulled through the gate. I have a feeling your water level is too low, which would make the level low in back, and help cause microbubbles. I also have my gate all the way down.
-------
The tank has cleared up since my Major Coralline Attack #2 yesterday. The single edge razor on a 12 inch handle let me get a lot more of it off on the right side of the gate.
Before (9 month old 20 k metal halide lamp, but you get the idea):
Last weekend - Major Coralline Attack #1 - new 14k metal halide bulb in - I couldn't get at the coralline on the left side of the gate with the 6 inch wide Aqua Medic Razor Scraper:
After yesterday's attack with the new razor scraper. I broke a corner off 2 blades, but was able to retrieve them:
The gate is still covered, but to me it looks much better. Sorry all you coralline lovers, but I've learned to hate the stuff! If you don't want a pink tank keep after it before it gets too thick. I've learned my lesson!
Before, Halfway There, and Done!
Arreola I agree with Kent - difficult to tell where your water level is. Based on the level being where the reflection starts, it looks like you may be about an inch below the black trim? I run my water level so that it's about 1/8-1/4 inch below the trim in front. I run mine so that there's maybe 1/8-1/4 inch of air space at the top of the overflow gate - just enough space to let any surface oil/scum be able to be pulled through the gate. I have a feeling your water level is too low, which would make the level low in back, and help cause microbubbles. I also have my gate all the way down.
-------
The tank has cleared up since my Major Coralline Attack #2 yesterday. The single edge razor on a 12 inch handle let me get a lot more of it off on the right side of the gate.
Before (9 month old 20 k metal halide lamp, but you get the idea):
Last weekend - Major Coralline Attack #1 - new 14k metal halide bulb in - I couldn't get at the coralline on the left side of the gate with the 6 inch wide Aqua Medic Razor Scraper:
After yesterday's attack with the new razor scraper. I broke a corner off 2 blades, but was able to retrieve them:
The gate is still covered, but to me it looks much better. Sorry all you coralline lovers, but I've learned to hate the stuff!
If you don't want a pink tank keep after it before it gets too thick. I've learned my lesson!Reefmack & NaCl+H2O Fish - The water level is at 1/10 is an inch from the trim and the gate is completly coverd.
I enlarge th inlet pipe to 4" and the microbubbles are much less, but still I'm getting some.
Can't remember the size of the tube, bit had to put som heat in it to make it fit.
In this last pic, you can see the water level, but I add some more RO/DI water until it reaches the trim.
Thank you
Arreola
I enlarge th inlet pipe to 4" and the microbubbles are much less, but still I'm getting some.
Can't remember the size of the tube, bit had to put som heat in it to make it fit.
In this last pic, you can see the water level, but I add some more RO/DI water until it reaches the trim.
Thank you
Arreola
Reefmack
In Memoriam
Arreola - The water level in your last picture was low, but you've corrected that so that's good. Be careful you haven't lowered the salinity too much by adding a lot of RO water. A couple other comments & possible things that may help....
1) Is your gate all the way down? If the gate is raised too high it won't allow enough water to get into the back.
2) Be careful that the pipes you put on the pumps are not sucking up the top of the carbon media bag (if you have that under the pumps).
3) With little or no bio-load in the tank, there may be nothing to skim and the skimmer may put out extra microbubbles under those conditions. It's not unusual for skimmers to put out microbubbles for a while, especially with nothing to skim.
4) Do the microbubbles go away if you shut off the skimmer? Now that your water level in back is hopefully higher, the bubbles may be skimmer related. I still have a very few microbubbles, so I'm not sure zero can ever be expected.
5) Do you clean, rinse, or replace that white filter pad every 2-3 days? If that filter pad plugs up it will cut flow to the rest of the back chambers.
6) If you haven't done it already, try cutting off a slice of the black sponge about 1 - 1.5 inches thick, as best you can with a scissors, and use that under the white sponge. Keep the rest - it may be useful later.
Hopefully one or more of those suggestions will help you.
Terry
1) Is your gate all the way down? If the gate is raised too high it won't allow enough water to get into the back.
2) Be careful that the pipes you put on the pumps are not sucking up the top of the carbon media bag (if you have that under the pumps).
3) With little or no bio-load in the tank, there may be nothing to skim and the skimmer may put out extra microbubbles under those conditions. It's not unusual for skimmers to put out microbubbles for a while, especially with nothing to skim.
4) Do the microbubbles go away if you shut off the skimmer? Now that your water level in back is hopefully higher, the bubbles may be skimmer related. I still have a very few microbubbles, so I'm not sure zero can ever be expected.
5) Do you clean, rinse, or replace that white filter pad every 2-3 days? If that filter pad plugs up it will cut flow to the rest of the back chambers.
6) If you haven't done it already, try cutting off a slice of the black sponge about 1 - 1.5 inches thick, as best you can with a scissors, and use that under the white sponge. Keep the rest - it may be useful later.
Hopefully one or more of those suggestions will help you.
Terry
Reefmack - The SG is at 1.023 and have not changed since I fill the tank for the first time.
The gate is all the way down, so I don't think that is the reasson I have a lower water level on the pumps.
When I turn the skimmer off, the bubbles still come out from the pumps, maybe the water level was too low plus the short inlet pipes, that might be te cause for the bubbles.
I will clean / cut the black sponge, I have not clean those filters, because I wanted to have all the bacteria I can get at this time. But I guess is time to do so.
The tubes were 6" and had to cut them down to 4" so they do not have any contact with the carbon media. I start cutting small part of the tube, until I got a good flow from the pumps.
The bubbles have amost stoped at this time.
I'm sure that with with the sponge cut down to 1 1/2" I will get a better flow and get rid from those anoing bubbles.
Thank you
Arreola
The gate is all the way down, so I don't think that is the reasson I have a lower water level on the pumps.
When I turn the skimmer off, the bubbles still come out from the pumps, maybe the water level was too low plus the short inlet pipes, that might be te cause for the bubbles.
I will clean / cut the black sponge, I have not clean those filters, because I wanted to have all the bacteria I can get at this time. But I guess is time to do so.
The tubes were 6" and had to cut them down to 4" so they do not have any contact with the carbon media. I start cutting small part of the tube, until I got a good flow from the pumps.
The bubbles have amost stoped at this time.
I'm sure that with with the sponge cut down to 1 1/2" I will get a better flow and get rid from those anoing bubbles.
Thank you
Arreola
martinphillip03
New member
The black sponge is for mechanical filtration. The live rock will provide enough of the biological filtration
Marty
- Status
