philblumenfeld
New member
Has anyone ever tried PENICILLN to treat this cyno bacteria?
Red Slime Algae
- Thread starter philblumenfeld
- Start date
Bifferwine
New member
I haven't. I would be afraid, with all the diversity of bacteria in the tank, that it would kill off good bacteria too. With slime algae, I have always dealt with it "naturally" by adjusting flow patterns and addressing water quality/feeding issues instead.
cerreta
Premium Member
I have had it one time and used this one time and nver had it again. Worked great for me.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage.aspx?PageAlias=additives_ultralife
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage.aspx?PageAlias=additives_ultralife
Tucson Reef
New member
Use Scott's suggestion, antibiotic's work ok on geen slime in FW planted tanks, but kill off too many good bugs in Salt.
Tanque Verde
New member
Hey Phil,
Sounds like we may be in the same boat. My aquapod is now about 5.5 months old and I have been struggling for the last two or three months with algae on my sand bed. I have:
--reduced feeding to a humane minimum
--cut my photoperiod to 8 actinic and 6 daylight hours
--upped my water-change regimen to approximately 7% twice weekly, which includes regular sand vacuuming and occasional microchanges
--added nassarius and cerith snails to stir up the sand
--built a make-shift refugium in my rear chamber (though it needs a good light)
--begun using Chemi-pure elite
--tested for Phosphates: came up 0.
--added an MJ 400 to increase flow in the main tank
--installed a sapphire skimmer to run 24/7 (about two weeks ago)
--replaced that MJ 400 with a much more powerful Koralia nano that now blows directly on the trouble spot (last week)
And I still aint beat it yet. Apparently this is a common part of the break-in period, especially for nanos, but my patience is thinning.
I can't help but wonder if the factory AP bulbs might be suspect. And I haven't tested my water, which I buy at Southwest Saltwater, but I've asked Rob about it directly and he assures me its RO/DI.
I'd like to hear more about your circumstances and to know if anything works out.
Sounds like we may be in the same boat. My aquapod is now about 5.5 months old and I have been struggling for the last two or three months with algae on my sand bed. I have:
--reduced feeding to a humane minimum
--cut my photoperiod to 8 actinic and 6 daylight hours
--upped my water-change regimen to approximately 7% twice weekly, which includes regular sand vacuuming and occasional microchanges
--added nassarius and cerith snails to stir up the sand
--built a make-shift refugium in my rear chamber (though it needs a good light)
--begun using Chemi-pure elite
--tested for Phosphates: came up 0.
--added an MJ 400 to increase flow in the main tank
--installed a sapphire skimmer to run 24/7 (about two weeks ago)
--replaced that MJ 400 with a much more powerful Koralia nano that now blows directly on the trouble spot (last week)
And I still aint beat it yet. Apparently this is a common part of the break-in period, especially for nanos, but my patience is thinning.
I can't help but wonder if the factory AP bulbs might be suspect. And I haven't tested my water, which I buy at Southwest Saltwater, but I've asked Rob about it directly and he assures me its RO/DI.
I'd like to hear more about your circumstances and to know if anything works out.
philblumenfeld
New member
Tangue Verde
You have done a lot, I can't believe you still have RSA. You have also spent alot of money which I don't have.
I tried the light change from 14 actinic/12 daylight to 10/8.
I also was told by Hector that the shrimp cubes I was feeding every other day along with flakes every other day was too much. Seems the cubes should have been cut in fourths.
I still only change 10% water from Southwest every 2 weeks. (not as diligent as your twice weekly.
Perhaps its the water from SW. Hector advised having it checked when you get it, he claims he does that and charges the same $1/gal. I will start getting mine from him next.
I have not added any chemicals, or for that matter spent any extra money.
Now, for the kicker.
I read about using erythromycin, an antibiotic, and had some unused penicilliin here so I tried it for 3 days. IT WORKED
Then I got the brillant idea to ask the real experts, after the fact, and what they say about the possibilty of killing off good bacteria as well as bad got me to worry.
I'm 2 days post penicillin: fish are still alive, and what few mushrooms I had are still ok. The RSA is 90% gone.
I'll keep you posted if anything changes or call me @ 696-0165.
You have done a lot, I can't believe you still have RSA. You have also spent alot of money which I don't have.
I tried the light change from 14 actinic/12 daylight to 10/8.
I also was told by Hector that the shrimp cubes I was feeding every other day along with flakes every other day was too much. Seems the cubes should have been cut in fourths.
I still only change 10% water from Southwest every 2 weeks. (not as diligent as your twice weekly.
Perhaps its the water from SW. Hector advised having it checked when you get it, he claims he does that and charges the same $1/gal. I will start getting mine from him next.
I have not added any chemicals, or for that matter spent any extra money.
Now, for the kicker.
I read about using erythromycin, an antibiotic, and had some unused penicilliin here so I tried it for 3 days. IT WORKED
Then I got the brillant idea to ask the real experts, after the fact, and what they say about the possibilty of killing off good bacteria as well as bad got me to worry.
I'm 2 days post penicillin: fish are still alive, and what few mushrooms I had are still ok. The RSA is 90% gone.
I'll keep you posted if anything changes or call me @ 696-0165.
Tanque Verde
New member
That's pretty extraordinary, and bold, I'm glad it worked. Keep me posted.
And who's Hector? I haven't met him yet.
And who's Hector? I haven't met him yet.
ELCHUPACABRA
New member
Hector invented the ocean. Duh
Tangman1218
In Memoriam
Id start making my own water if I were you guys. Salinity levels should be 1.025-1.026 for reef. Ask your current local water guy what his salinity is, what salt he uses for his mix, what his temp is and then test the SG to make sure it is accurate (at the same temp.) I have a refractometer and would be more than happy to test it for you as well. I know Hector (Oasis Tropical Fish) has his at 1.023 and I would bet the other Saltwater store does as well, maybe lower. Ive heard of LFS fluctuating between 1.019 to 1.023. Thats fine for FO system, but a little low for reef.
Tang
Tang
SWSaltwater
New member
TDS on the Maxcap RODI is 2. Out of the holding tank after 1 day is about 9. Anything under 50 is RODI. Water Street Station is usually about 50-60 when I had to buy water for large tank setups. religiously change filters and check parameters.
Red Slime control/chemi clean is penicillin based (crystalized) and use it all the time. Just do a 30% WC about 5 days post treatment and dose some Cycle, Stability, or any other bacteria culture additive for a few weeks post treatment.
Overfeeding and high nitrate/phosphates accounts for the majority of outbreaks. Old lightbulbs or faulty ballasts have also been a factor that i noticed in a few cases.
Red Slime control/chemi clean is penicillin based (crystalized) and use it all the time. Just do a 30% WC about 5 days post treatment and dose some Cycle, Stability, or any other bacteria culture additive for a few weeks post treatment.
Overfeeding and high nitrate/phosphates accounts for the majority of outbreaks. Old lightbulbs or faulty ballasts have also been a factor that i noticed in a few cases.
SWSaltwater
New member
I have always kept all my reefs at 1.023 and have had the best luck there for many many years. The ocean is 1.026 on average(fluctuates based on location) and I have noticed no difference when lowering it to 1.023. The fish seem to fair a little better in most cases and no ill effects on corals. Any store in the state would glady raise it on request I am sure, but in my experience most stores nationwide I have gone to (LA to Florida) sell at 1.023. I actually use 2 refractometers in the store just incase one is out of wack. Learned that the hard way on the cheap online ones years ago. Only use Milwaukee now.
Tanque Verde
New member
LOL at Chupa. How goes it, Mike? There's snow in Colorado? Are you itchin for it? And what's the status on your supposed retirement from reef keeping?
I buy the RO/DI and make my own, I keep mine at 1.023-1.024 and my corals do great, had a bad spell 6 months or so ago when my hydrometer was reading off and my sal was up to 1.029-1.030 and my zoas and other corals never died but did not grow or open completely either.
On a side note, weighing your salt mix vs measuring it by volume tends to be much much more accurate, I use a Food scale at home and my SW has always been right on the dot.
On a side note, weighing your salt mix vs measuring it by volume tends to be much much more accurate, I use a Food scale at home and my SW has always been right on the dot.
