Reed crystals help

diablo30xp

New member
I have been using reef crystals for yrs now not had a problem with them. Now for the past month every time I have done a water change my chemistry is far off. At 1.025 all is at 14 and calcium is at 600 I tested twice to be sure. I use Hanna calcium checker for calcium and Red Sea for alk. Can anyone help me with this. I almost lost coral last month cuz high alk.
 
The salt mix batch could be off or may have lost it's homogeneity. Not sure what the usual values for Reef Cyrstals are at 1.025. I'd double check the tests too.
 
To be honest i also have a similar issue. I have been using the same 6 scoups to measure 1.026 to my weekly 10 gal. water changes for years and now that same measurement is giving me 1.030 of salinty.

So something is weired.
 
It is a Milwaukee Refractometer and calibrated with RO water per the instructions. I also double checked it just in case with the tank water and it was 1.026.
 
I have been using reef crystals for yrs now not had a problem with them. Now for the past month every time I have done a water change my chemistry is far off. At 1.025 all is at 14 and calcium is at 600 I tested twice to be sure. I use Hanna calcium checker for calcium and Red Sea for alk. Can anyone help me with this. I almost lost coral last month cuz high alk.

Just change salts. As you know, RC is notorious for ridiculously high levels. 14 does seems quite a bit higher than normal for RC but I see people measuring 12-13 all the time. I have never understood the reason for having ALK at +10 and cant think of one single tank inhabitant that could benefit in the least. But hey...thats just me.
 
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Just change salts. As you know, RC is notorious for ridiculously high levels. 14 does seems quite a bit higher than normal for RC but I see people measuring 12-13 all the time. I have never understood the reason for having ALK at +10 and cant think of one single tank inhabitant that could benefit.

I am with you and that's why i prefer to do 10% water changes weekly so that way i don't have that big impact.

Reason i haven't changed yet is because overhere in PR i get that one for a Dealer price and shipping to PR is too way expensive.
 
It sure is inconsistent. My latest batch is 9 dkh but the real issue is Mg at 1050. Like opening a box of chocolates..... Never know what you're going to get. I'm getting frustrated as I have to test and dose the nsw every time I open another box grrrrrr
 
I seem to remember that the Milwaukee refractometer should be calibrated and zeroed out against steam distilled water not RO
 
So i talked with Milwaukee support and this is their recommendation based on the model that i have that is the MR32ATC:

1. Clean the lens with cotton ball soaked with Windex glass cleaner.
2. Flush using distilled water not RO water to check that your calibrated to 0.
3. Finally and probably most important you cannot use an optical refractometer under florescent lights, Mercury vapor lights, halogen lights or LED lights due to incorrect wavelength you will get erroneous readings. You sunlight or 75 to 100 W incandescent light bulbs.

Hope this helps clarify doubts to others.
 
So i talked with Milwaukee support and this is their recommendation based on the model that i have that is the MR32ATC:

1. Clean the lens with cotton ball soaked with Windex glass cleaner.
2. Flush using distilled water not RO water to check that your calibrated to 0.
3. Finally and probably most important you cannot use an optical refractometer under florescent lights, Mercury vapor lights, halogen lights or LED lights due to incorrect wavelength you will get erroneous readings. You sunlight or 75 to 100 W incandescent light bulbs.

Hope this helps clarify doubts to others.

This is why i still think a glass hydrometer is best..... i have two of them and a swing arm. they all Always read the same when tested in the same water... You just gotta keep them clean..and toss the swing arm the FIRST TIME ITS WRONG.as its pin is wearing out.
 
So i talked with Milwaukee support and this is their recommendation based on the model that i have that is the MR32ATC:

1. Clean the lens with cotton ball soaked with Windex glass cleaner.
2. Flush using distilled water not RO water to check that your calibrated to 0.
3. Finally and probably most important you cannot use an optical refractometer under florescent lights, Mercury vapor lights, halogen lights or LED lights due to incorrect wavelength you will get erroneous readings. You sunlight or 75 to 100 W incandescent light bulbs.

Hope this helps clarify doubts to others.

I wonder if mine is off, I use my t shirt to clean, and look at any light avail? I might want to take better care.
 
I wonder if mine is off, I use my t shirt to clean, and look at any light avail? I might want to take better care.

I also used a t-shirt or a napkin but i will test this recommendation and see if something is off in the Refractometer. I don't think the T-Shirt or Napkin is the issue. I am more inclined to the glass have some old residues of saltwater so maybe the cleaning with Windex solution gives it a good clean.

Will keep posted with results.
 
I have been using reef crystals for yrs now not had a problem with them. Now for the past month every time I have done a water change my chemistry is far off. At 1.025 all is at 14 and calcium is at 600 I tested twice to be sure. I use Hanna calcium checker for calcium and Red Sea for alk. Can anyone help me with this. I almost lost coral last month cuz high alk.

What are you using to measure your SG? Is it calibrated? With what?
 
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