Thank you for concern, I will be careful even if my tank is one meter deep.
About the pumps I changed the plan and use more small ones than two big.
I still haven't decided what brand will be.
Thanks
Andy
Reef Aquarium 1350 gallons in Bucharest
- Thread starter andytripa
- Start date
Thank you for concern, I will be careful even if my tank is one meter deep.
About the pumps I changed the plan and use more small ones than two big.
I still haven't decided what brand will be.
Thanks
Andy
I'm from the far-away Belgium, but I'm really impressed with what I can learn only in this thread already. Awesome, really awesome, my tank looks like a big bucket of water compared to what I see here
Thank you Euch and welcome!
Andy
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Wow, great ideas. It looks like you are doing it in sections so you can carry it upstairs. Once it is in place use a few small pillars to join shelves and run a few branching pieces at angles so it doesn't look so linear/striated.
I like the barnacles. Try to add more. Clusters of mussel shells embedded in the back wall also makes it look more realistic and adds more texture.
Try not to make the wall flat with uniform shelves. Leave one or two panels simple to break up the pattern, or use a lot of cement to bring out the background layer.
Another tip is to use a large lag bolt and press the threads into the fresh cement. This will make worm fossils. Use different size bolts and keep washing them in water to clean the threads. Screwdrivers can also make nice worm holes and scratch some texture into the cement. You can mix some extra aragonite and small shells into the cement mix for some areas for extra texture. WHERE ARE YOUR RUBBER GLOVES! Oh yeah, you are a professional builder
Use different technics in each area. Mix some cement wet and let it slump, and in others use it dry for a different look. If you handle the cement too much while forming it you work the water to the surface and loose stability in sculpting. Because it isn't structural you can throw some dry cement powder right on the surface if it is too wet.
I had some success with blasting the wet cement with an air compressor, but forming by hand was best. You have to let it set for a bit and form it when it is just right. A slightly damp sponge is the best tool for feathering edges and joints. Keep rinsing it as you go.
The nice thing about working with dry rock is you can keep adding layers of cement until you are happy with it.
Keep up the good work!
Wow, great ideas. It looks like you are doing it in sections so you can carry it upstairs. Once it is in place use a few small pillars to join shelves and run a few branching pieces at angles so it doesn't look so linear/striated.
I like the barnacles. Try to add more. Clusters of mussel shells embedded in the back wall also makes it look more realistic and adds more texture.
Try not to make the wall flat with uniform shelves. Leave one or two panels simple to break up the pattern, or use a lot of cement to bring out the background layer.
Another tip is to use a large lag bolt and press the threads into the fresh cement. This will make worm fossils. Use different size bolts and keep washing them in water to clean the threads. Screwdrivers can also make nice worm holes and scratch some texture into the cement. You can mix some extra aragonite and small shells into the cement mix for some areas for extra texture. WHERE ARE YOUR RUBBER GLOVES! Oh yeah, you are a professional builder
Use different technics in each area. Mix some cement wet and let it slump, and in others use it dry for a different look. If you handle the cement too much while forming it you work the water to the surface and loose stability in sculpting. Because it isn't structural you can throw some dry cement powder right on the surface if it is too wet.
I had some success with blasting the wet cement with an air compressor, but forming by hand was best. You have to let it set for a bit and form it when it is just right. A slightly damp sponge is the best tool for feathering edges and joints. Keep rinsing it as you go.
The nice thing about working with dry rock is you can keep adding layers of cement until you are happy with it.
Keep up the good work!
Thank you Shawn!
This is how the parts look like after taking forms out from the cement:
I will make tomorow two more parts and make them look more 3D.
I also must start looking for some equipment and a computer. I was thinking to go with Profilux. Any ideas Shawn?
Thanks
Andy :beer:
Thank you Vlado4x4!
I will consider your recomandation as an option.
Appreciate.
Andy
:thumbsup:
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I like ATB but Skimz is the best value for money. Skimz also has commercial skimmers.
Peter has an RK2 25PE which I do not recommend but it gets the job done reliably. There are a few DC needle wheel pumps out there if you want to modify a stock skimmer or make your own.
This one generates 3,000 LPH air and still moves a lot of water.
chingchai
Premium Member
Andy. Your tank is 40" high. Right?
If so, 400w is enough.
1000w will burn your coral.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
I'm just going by what I was quoted by the manufacturer. I think the one you are referring to is a new one, and not the one pictured here. I'm not sure, but I know we will all be using DC pumps in the near future.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Thank you Shawn!
This is how the parts look like after taking forms out from the cement:
I will make tomorow two more parts and make them look more 3D.
I also must start looking for some equipment and a computer. I was thinking to go with Profilux. Any ideas Shawn?
Thanks
Andy :beer:
Awesome work! It will look even better once the cement lightens up with time. You can etch it with acid if you aren't patient, but it will all be purple coraline in the end.
You will give more depth if you allow some pieces to go all the way back to the glass wall. I would say make a few rough holes with a hammer but I know how strong that cement is
You might want to shim or wedge some of the panels so they aren't so flat and look more random. Like I said before, don't be afraid of adding more rock and cement and covering what you have done if it makes it more 3D. Even tipping some panels at an angle and filling the gap makes it look more organic. Remember, there are no straight lines in nature.
Linking some coral pillars or outcrops in the mid-ground to the background helps tie it all together. You don't want distinct layers, but a blurred mix from front to back.
You have the rare luxury of being able to work slowly and re-evaluate it every day. When you are working with fresh live rock you are in a race against time and it isn't relaxing or as creative. Take your time, you will have new ideas every day and it gets better every time.
The other luxury you have is being able to work on it outside of the tank and on a horizontal surface so the cement and rock isn't working against gravity.
bullitr
broke but happy
Sir you might be right but vividaquarium has 1000 watter on their 800 gallon tank it's only 32" tall and the corals are doing great.
But personally I think it's over doing it since I have 29" tall tank and I used 250 dimmable and acropora are growing very fast.
Andy If electric bill is not an issue I say go for it since solar tubes produce more par than 1000 watters according to reefski (Carl )
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
A friend of mine had a 600 gallon L shaped tank that was only 30 - 36" deep with a 1000W MHL in the corner bend. He didn't have any bleaching or brown outs with his SPS.
I have used 1000w lights on tanks deeper than 2m but I would use 400w on a 1m deep/tall tank. It's more a matter of heat and nuisance algae than one of burning corals. Raising the light will split the difference but it will cast more light on the front glass and cause algae to grow.
One thing I would recommend is to angle the light fixtures back toward the back wall. This will minimize shadows on fish and corals while directing the light away from the viewers eye and the viewing panel to limit glass cleaning (algae).
I have used 1000w lights on tanks deeper than 2m but I would use 400w on a 1m deep/tall tank. It's more a matter of heat and nuisance algae than one of burning corals. Raising the light will split the difference but it will cast more light on the front glass and cause algae to grow.
One thing I would recommend is to angle the light fixtures back toward the back wall. This will minimize shadows on fish and corals while directing the light away from the viewers eye and the viewing panel to limit glass cleaning (algae).
