Reef Pods TISBE vs Tigger Pods

Reef Pods TISBE vs Tigger Pods

How many bottles do you suggest that we should start with? Also, do I need special net to take out the pods (young and adult) for feeding?

That is a very good question "how many bottles to start with"???

Is it possible to use only half a bottle and put the other half in the sump???

I also want to thank everyone who has shared their advise and expertise here in this thread....

Mary
 
Ok Randy, got your bottle of Tigger pods (holy copepods batman! You weren't kidding when you stated on the bottle double density!) and shellfish diet (most people could probably get away with phyto-feast but I will use the algae to culture other things).

I am running 3 experiments - all with your tidepool approach listed here. I purchased plastic Tupperware instead of glass (hope it works, pyrex and the like is expensive). I split the bottle into 4 - one for each of the 3 Tupperwares and the rest stayed in the bottle in the fridge.

All containers at 1.021 SG. In the first tub will be just water, pods and food. In the second tub will be bioballs to increase surface area. In the 3rd tub will be a rigid tube to give surface agitation and help increase oxygen levels in the water - around 1 bubble per second.

So lets take some bets. Which container will produce the most pods and why?

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i have a bunch of lil white things on the back of my tank glass what can they be? the move very slow
 
What time of day do you see them crawling on the glass? I think it is some type of snail I cannot remember the name of them.
 
well i dont see the move its that i see them in the morning at one spot then i notice more at another spot they are there all the time
 
great thread, learn alot of stuff for when i culture my own pods for my mandarin.

Tagging along for the results of the experiment.
 
Ahhh, are you guys waiting on me?

Well surprisingly the tub with no agitation and no bio balls did the best. I was never able to get the pods as plump or orange/red as the bottle from Reed but they did reproduce. I only cultured the pods for a couple months before tearing down due to other issues.
 
When do you start to see them??? When I poured in the bag I saw nothing... also that little green ball of what I am assuming some type of macro algea is it okay to put in the sump/aquarium were you pour the liqiud in at???

They are often packed with Ulva lettuce/algae. I put mine in with the pods and it's multiplied well, as have the pods
 
Here are some pics I took of the copepods I've found in my tank. I took these with a USB digital Microscope I got off e-bay for $23.00. So far I've only figured out how to do 20x's and 225x's magnifications. The one photo shows the copepod next to a mm ruler. From this my initial thoughts is this a representative of a Tisbe copepod. The 225x's shows a better detail of the copepod. They are right around 1mm at full adult length. The body length/type and description points to Tisbe although I do have some smaller sized adults which might lead me to believe they are Parvocalanus. Either way they are copepods. Their behavior in the tank is to swim in jumps as well as on the glass. If you watch them you will see them move slowly or jump from place to place. I've also observed some planarian(flat worms) on the glass which also appear as small white or pink moving objects. However their movement is a smooth flowing motion and are slighlty larger. In addition I do have some micro snails which show up from time to time but they are 1 1/2-2 mm and are recognizable as a cone shelled snail.

I hope this helps you with your identification.

As to the "Red" nature of the Tiger pods I think that a supplimentation with a Astaxanthin form of algae which is rich in carotenoids, see here http://www.jehmco.com/html/powders__spirulina___plankton.html, will help to bring out this pigmentation in your copepods. In addition to the red/orange enhancement their are other beneficial properties which will convey to your fish through consuming copepods when you add a feed of this type to your pods.
 

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Thank you I did not click on that link and saw that they also have the powder I was looking for as well: SPIRULINA MICRON POWDER
 
Thank you I did not click on that link and saw that they also have the powder I was looking for as well: SPIRULINA MICRON POWDER

Can you feed the pods solely those two powders the spirulina micron and the other stuff for the color enhancement or do you have to culture plankton or buy it for food?
Thanks in advance!
 
Reef Pods TISBE vs Tigger Pods

Can you feed the pods solely those two powders the spirulina micron and the other stuff for the color enhancement or do you have to culture plankton or buy it for food?
Thanks in advance!


I was looking for the Spirulina powder to put in the food that I mixed up in the blender for my Omnivore fish but all my Tangs end up eating that food as well and I was reading someone else's receipe and they had included that powder with their mixture and I was going to do the same since my Tangs like that food that I mix up.
 
I hope this helps:

Ok, the Tigger pods and Tisbe are a Harpacticoid copepod. By this I believe that they will feed off the substrate as well as in the water column. The following links are for further information on the feeding, culturing and general behaviour as well as the food benefits to these two copepods. From this information you can take that copepods do have specific foods which they will eat but they also can and will consume other types of food items. The Reef Nutrition link as well as the other referents state that the Tigger Pods prefer the Brown algaes but will consume the green algaes as well but will not achieve any value from it as a food item. However it should also be noted that in one of the papers I linked that copepods will "taste" several types of food items and either eat or reject them. I have experienced that given a greater choice in feeds copepods will consume more types of phyto, algae and other food particles then what is generally accepted as the species specific food type.

basic general info on Tigger pods - where they can be found
http://www.racerocks.com/racerock/eco/taxalab/2005/harpacticoid/harpacticoid.htm

Reef nutrition culture tips on tigger pods
http://reefnutrition.com/tigger_pods_care.html

Paper on feeding preferences of Tisbe
http://www.int-res.com/articles/meps/7/m007p303.pdf

Good general paper on pods value as food
http://idosi.org/abr/4(2)/4.pdf

As for the Reef Pods Tisbe: This past Saturday I attended the Frights and Frags show here in Orlando. I was able to obtain a 8oz bag of the Tisbe copepods from the company rep. It was packed full of them. Every sample of the water I put under the scope had some copepods in evey stage of developement. With this sample of an identified copepod I was able to determine that the copepods I have in my tank are Tisbe. These things are hyper active. They are swimming and jumping all over the sides and water column of the culture vessel ( 1 gallon glass former pickle jar) I've added water with a salinity of 26 in small amounts to the original water over the past 4 days to bring the volumn up and will continue to do so over the next several days - no aeration yet as the water volumn is still limited. The size and development in just a few short days is as stated in the company lit. They will develope rapidly from nauplii to breeding adults quickly.

In addition to the Tisbe I also picked up a small bottle of the Phyco Pure Reef Blend. I doubled the volumn of a 2 ml sample with sterile water (26 salanity) and with the smallest drop I still couldn't count the number of algae cells present.algae 10302011.jpg. I would have to say that they provide a good quality product(s)

With this experience I'm now interested in aquiring their Tangerine and Parvocalanus pods to culture as food. Both are a Calaniod copepod which I understand can be challanging to culture.

A note on culturing Tigger pods and other large copepods: Larger size shallow water vessels are what are needed for the larger copepods. A 30 gallon plastic tub filled initially with only 6-8" of water would be ideal. Include some forms of macro algae and other sterile items for additional surface area and to assist with water purity. Also use a slow aeration in the culture. You don't want to churn the water but provide a slow steady flow. You will get far better results in my opinion.
 
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