Reeflo/Sequence Skimmer Club

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My Reeflo 200 is breaking in.
breakingin.jpg
 
I hooked up my 250 today.

I checked the wattage / amp draw if anyone is interested. I'm feeding the skimmer with a Rio 2500.

Dart only: 140W / 1.42A

Both pumps: 188W / 2.16A
 
Guys, two questions after plumbing this thing up.

1. I have tried teflon twice on the gasket where the silencer hookd to the dart pump. Since I have to turn it back from full tightness to get the silencer pointed up... it leaks. Have tried three thicknesses of teflon. All leak. I am about to silicone this thing in place. Any other ideas?

2. I just have fresh water circulating in the tank. For giggles, I turned on the skimmer. Naturally, it can't make foam in fresh water. After about 10 minutes, I noticed the motor getting hot. Real hot. I am assuming there is too much resistance in the fresh water and this was loading the motor. When I mix with salt water it will be fine... right? After three hours now it is red hot and starting to smell (kidding... I turned it off).
 
And, another stupid question... how do I adjust the water level in the skimmer. With it totally off, it is sitting above the nylon screws. Do I need to cut the PVC shorter to lower the "T"? I am gravity feeding if that makes a difference.
 
It is the 250. And to clarify, it is the gasket with the air intake that is leaking.

I am using standard teflon tape. I bought some of the thicker stuff, but, can't find it. Will probably hit it with silicone, which, I believe will seal PVC in a non permanent way.

Ryan.
 
FishTruck - my pump is warm/hot to the touch. never screamin hot though. I had the same issue lineing up the venturi. I just added more teflon than I thought it would ever need. Your water level is just above the black piece that connects the cup? If so you should be good. Just make sure the wedge pipe is all the way open the first time you turn on the pump and I always turn the venturi down and slowly open it all the way once the bubbles have leveled off. HTH
 
Thanks Chetm2. I am motivated to try the teflon one more time. I will locate some of the thicker tape.

Regarding the hot motor... it is definietly not right. If it does this with saltwater, I will be sending it back. This is one reason I am hesitant to use silicone (might not be able to take the venturi gasket off the pump).
 
FishTruck,

I use (and recommend) silicone for all threaded fittings, especially pump fittings. You will be able to disconnect the fitting is you use silicone, however, I agree, you should be comfortable with the heat of the pump before making any semi-permanent connections.

My Dart on my 250 is warm to the touch, not hot. Could you possibly have a ventilation problem where the Dart is located?
 
When I close the air intake, within 10 minutes mine will almost burn me. I have a small fan (2-3") that blows against the motor at all times, and it's definitely warm during normal operation, but not hot per say. I can't say that it contributes any major heat to my system as my heaters are running full blast here during the winter unless the lights are on.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11450325#post11450325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefArtist
FishTruck - I had the same problem. I had to load up on the tape and the leak went away - lots - O - Tape!
Click to expand...

I also experienced the same problem.
moreover the venturi is not centralized ...
 
Guys. I must qualify this post. I am only here on xmas eve waiting for the kids to fall asleep before I put the presents under the tree. My wife is busy making milk for the newborn. Visiting Mom (mine) is wrapping gifts. Also, I am going up from a Aqua C urchin so this kind of skimmer is totally new to me.

Anotherminreal - right. I know that silicone works great on threaded connections. I use this on bulkheads without fear. The hot pump makes me a little hesitant. Thanks for the input. If I have to use silicone, I am 82% sure it will be fine.

RokleM - I am pretty sure that the pump got hot because it was trying to spin against freshwater. I am not sure if the air intake was open. The pump is in basically an open room and the ambient temp in the basement is about 60 degrees right now... so it is not a ventillation issue. I was fishing for someone who ran this in f.w. in a new build situation like mine.

Reefartist. I found the 560 double thick teflon. Will try again. Fifth time is a charm!

Yitman. I assumed the venturi had to be straight up. If it can point down.... I can just screw this thing on tighter and my problem is solved. Are you saying it does not have to be up?

THanks all. If you are reading this in Christmas eve or day, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Now, get back to your loved ones!

Ryan.
 
If it's not in the up position you will need to purchase new hose - if the venturi is pointed on the side my hose wasn't long enough. The double thick tape is great - good luck!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11452208#post11452208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FishTruck
Guys. I must qualify this post. I am only here on xmas eve waiting for the kids to fall asleep before I put the presents under the tree. My wife is busy making milk for the newborn. Visiting Mom (mine) is wrapping gifts. Also, I am going up from a Aqua C urchin so this kind of skimmer is totally new to me.

Anotherminreal - right. I know that silicone works great on threaded connections. I use this on bulkheads without fear. The hot pump makes me a little hesitant. Thanks for the input. If I have to use silicone, I am 82% sure it will be fine.

RokleM - I am pretty sure that the pump got hot because it was trying to spin against freshwater. I am not sure if the air intake was open. The pump is in basically an open room and the ambient temp in the basement is about 60 degrees right now... so it is not a ventillation issue. I was fishing for someone who ran this in f.w. in a new build situation like mine.

Reefartist. I found the 560 double thick teflon. Will try again. Fifth time is a charm!

Yitman. I assumed the venturi had to be straight up. If it can point down.... I can just screw this thing on tighter and my problem is solved. Are you saying it does not have to be up?

THanks all. If you are reading this in Christmas eve or day, MERRY CHRISTMAS! Now, get back to your loved ones!

Ryan.
Click to expand...

Yep new tank here.....

Yes it ran a bit "warmer" but def. NOT HOT in fresh water. However it will cook an egg if you let it run for too long with the air valve closed, fresh water or SW. Even like three minutes or so.

Yes your air valve must not point up, it will kink the hose, kinda to the side. You are aware that piece comes apart correct. Cuz I wasn't and it made it a pain, after I figured out hey this thing is snug but this thing isn't. Made my life loads easier. Anyway couple of layers of normal teflon, snug up the MPT. Slip the elbow on, then put in the little screw thingy and your done.....

hope it helps, and merry christmas.
 
Success. I used the thick teflon tape with TFE paste and screwed it in about 30 degrees further than before. No leaks! With the air feed open, the pump is running cool for five hours now.
 
Has anyone purchased the Baldor motor upgrade. These motors run cooler than the AO Smith motors. I have the baldor on a bigger home made skimmer and it runs around 225 deg. The AO smith motor would overheat and shut off. I was waiting for everyone to statr complaning. Why not call SPAZZ . He makes excelent shimmers.
LOL
 
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